Thought I'd share this bit of a tip. It's saved me hundreds of pounds in paying other people to swap tyres over, and I've yet to find a tyre which this method doesn't work with.
If anyone goes laning I'd recommend practicing this, if you have 2 punctures and there's another truck with you with the right size tyre but wrong rims, then it's a good get you home (you'll need on board air).
Take the wheel off the truck and put some sort of spare on so that the truck is sitting on 4 wheels again (for stability)
Put the wheel on the floor, off centre, behind the tow bar or high lift jacking point. Take out the valve (small electricians screwdriver will poke in to unscrew the inner). Be careful when you take the valve out, the air pressure will try and send it flying, but pull the screw driver out slowly and grab it with the other hand).
Let the tyre totally deflate.
Starting with the face (the shiny bit) of the wheel pointing upwards, put the base of the highlift on the sidewall of the tyre with the foot right in against the rim (just touching) and the lifting foot under the tow bar. It's worth having the boot open if your using the tow bar just incase the jack rocks forwards - saves the paint
Jack the jack up till the bead pops off the tyre. If it doesn't go, lower the jack, move the wheel around the length of the base of the jack and try again, and again. It might take 2 - 3 attempts but it will go.
Once one side is done, turn over the wheel, and do the other side.
That's now a wheel with 2 broken beads on the tyres.
To take the tyre off...
If you look at the rim, on one side there's a small lip with an indent, on the other side there's a large lip then the indent. It's normally the valve side which has the smaller lip - THIS IS THE SIDE which must be started first.
Put the wheel on the ground flat with the smaller lip to the top (valve side up) and stand on the side wall pushing the bead of the tyre into the indent.
Put a tyre lever into to the opposide side and flip the bead over the rim of the tyre. The wheel will move off centre and work around flipping the bead over the tyre. Just make sure that the bead which is being stood on stays in the indent on the wheel.
Stand the tyre upright and flip the opposite side of the tyre through the valve side of the wheel, and work the tyre over the rim. After about 1/2 way the tyre will pull out.
You've now taken a tyre off a rim.
To put a tyre on a rim,
Starting with the smaller indent side of the wheel again, lay the tyre on the ground with the face of the wheel pointing down (pay attention to any white wall writing on the tyres), work the bead over the tyre - this will be quite tight and it's a practice makes perfect technique (especially with alloy wheels where you don't want to scuff the rims). Once the tyre is over, turn the whole lot over and flip one side of the bead over the rim. Stand on this bit till the bead is in the indent, and work the tyre over again - this is very quick to do.
There's now a tyre on a rim.
To put the beads on, either stand the wheel upright and plug in an air line to seat the rim, or in an emergency...
BE CAREFUL, THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED, YOU CAN CAUSE YOURSELF A LOT OF DAMAGE, DON'T COME CRYING WHEN YOU BREAK YOURSELF DOING THIS !!!!
Get a can of lighter fluid, MAKE SURE that the valve is NOT in the valve stem.
Spray about 5 - 10 seconds of lighter fluid down the valve stem into the tyre. Hold at arms length a lit ciggy lighter or match. BANG, beads set on rim. Let it stop breathing (you'll see what I mean when you do this) put the valve in and pump up to the correct pressure.
If your going to do this with alloys, put down a sheet of ply to work off to stop the wheel getting scuffed. Also practice this at home as well, it only takes me about 5 minutes to swap a tyre over but it's all technique. It took about 15 - 20 minutes the first time.
For balancing, I use about 300 grams of plastic bb shot per tyre.
