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[JamesH]

To get a bit more steering lock I need to stop my tie-rod hitting my sway bar links and over axle track bar bracket.

I could go the route of modifying the brackets and might still do some work to them but it is unlikely to get me all the clearance I need without weakening them too much. I've already borken the track-bar mount off once due to a lack of structure and the extra leverage my setup puts on it and no track bar connection makes driving a bit interesting 

The question is: What is the best way to bend 1.25" diameter, 3/8" wall DOM tube? I have someone with oxy-acet to use so can picture heating and bending using a big vice, hammers, bars and other heathen tools I have available.

Is there a more sensible way and will the heat method go wrong in a way I haven't imagined? I'm not familiar with heavy machinery that may be able to do this job really easily but if it exists I would consider taking to an engineering shop to save catching myself on fire with the oxy torch 

[WillCJ]

You could bend it by heating it up, one end firmly in a vice, maybe slide another close-fit long tube over the top to give more leverage and stop it from kinking,and control were the bend forms,(some experience required) but the best way is probably to use a hydraulic tube bender, bit like a press but with shaped dies that match the tube profile and support it as it forms the bend, no heat as that can weaken the metal. you may have to find a engineering shop for that, but I bought one from machine shop when i wanted to make a screen protector as the shop was going to charge me the same as it cost!. another place did a couple of bends for free/cost of a beer.

[Bubba]

bending it cold would be best i think

[The Smiths]

I agree with using a tube bender - but don't bend the tie bar.

You will never be able to track the car up.

You bend it, this shortens it, then you need to turn it and you can bet the setting needed will have the bending pointing the wrong way and making it worse.

I had to have the solid bar (the one from the steering box) bent, this then pulls the tie bar out and stops them hitting (or did with mine, and a tube bender was used and as a solid no issue of crushing it)

[The Smiths]

and as for getting steering lock back after doing the above the next step was to fit a big drop pitman arm, this gave me the steering lock back - nearly an extra turn on wheel

[JamesH]

My steering is a WJ conversion setup so completely separate tie-rod to the drag link.

I might get under it and have a good look at it again because I can see what you are saying about bending it and then I'd possibly have to compromise with tracking so that the tie-rod would remain 'pointing' forwards.

I know an engineering company my Dad uses from time to time so I'll see if they have the kit and dies to bend it.

My trouble at the moment is that I have steering lock to use but can't because the tie-rod hits the over-axle track bar mount and acts as a steering stop.

Something to re-visit when it's warm enough for me to lay on the drive.

[Nosebolt]

where are you? I have a press bender and dies here if your anywhere near bristol

[willo]

I normally find inconveniently placed tree stumps do the trick just fine

[JamesH]

This tie-rod is almost 10mm thick wall DOM - the hole down the middle is almost smaller than the walls. Would a basic pipe bender do it?

I've had the Jeep practically hanging off it and smashed into rocks several times - it's never bent in the 3 years or so of abusing it.

[Nosebolt]

mines a 16 ton press, will do it no prob

[JamesH]

Do you have a die / form for 1.25" or close enought to that?

I have relatives in Bristol and went to Uni there so could easily make a trip if that's the way to go.

[Nosebolt]

1/2" up to 3"

[Bubba]

he dont got no bender just a few blocks of wood and sits on where the bend has to go