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Author Topic: Molotov overheating part II  (Read 11570 times)

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bigjeepzj

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #75 on: October 02, 2012, 12:37:41 PM »

used these guys
the fans are slimmer then the K/low
and the fan controllers work had one fitted for 7 years no problems  

http://www.revotec.com/index.asp
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Bulldog67

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Bubba

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #77 on: October 10, 2012, 06:52:00 PM »

you need to know why its runnin hotter  than aboes armpit first
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Lornaben

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #78 on: October 10, 2012, 07:25:38 PM »

 :imwitstupid:

Don't try and hide it, find the problem and fix it  :greggmo:

bigjeepzj

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #79 on: October 10, 2012, 07:29:56 PM »

 :iagree:
My main overheating problem was a leaking rad so new rad worked for me
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JamesH

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #80 on: October 10, 2012, 09:16:30 PM »

 :iagree:

I had a problem that was a dirty and slightly weeping radiator, better to fix than buy after market and non-standard stuff. Adding an extra fan or some vents to fix an occasional heat problem from serious heavy towing for hours or a day of hard offroading in 25C plus heat is one thing but just 'normal' driving shouldn't need it
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Dave69

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #81 on: October 15, 2012, 08:51:32 PM »

Just thrown some ideas for BD to say yeh or ney to check


Coolant......are you losing any causing the level to drop?
Is the radiator clean from blockages?
Is there any blockages stopping the air getting to the rad?
Does the water pump work?
Does the interior heater work?
Is the engine timing correct and not advanced?
Are the coolant rubber hoses free from blockages?
Are the hoses old or new?
is the temperature taken from the o.e. placement or top hose?
does the radiator have a cooling fan shroud?
Is the fan shroud giving a good seal onto the radiator


these have probably been answered already but still worth musing over.

What you need to do is put a thermocouple in the top hose as it enters the rad and another in the bottom hose as the coolant leaves the rad. Once up to temperature you should have 90 to 100 degrees at the top hose and less at the other. The bigger the difference between the two means the radiator is working as intended, if your sitting in traffic offroading then this temp difference will be less hence the standard fitment of cooling fans.

find the efficiency of the radiator under normal driving conditions then decide where you go from there
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Bulldog67

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #82 on: October 15, 2012, 08:56:44 PM »

Thanks Dave, I really need to get motivated to sort this out so another flush is first job. Then will work thru the list. Im still thinking airflow thru the rad as the winch being on increases is susceptibility
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wildwood

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Re: Molotov overheating part II
« Reply #83 on: October 16, 2012, 12:23:45 AM »

Winch is a killer Ade ......If your rad is marginal....... Mine was OK with the. mile marker on the front as low profile....
With the 8274 on the front the grill was all but invisible...... Meant that on a warm day 55 was max as overheating started......Tis why I had the electric fan on the front as a pusher.... To keep the temp from getting higher......never actually dropped it once it had got up there just maintained it as hot but manageable at 55 :jpshakehead:

stopping and raising hood with engine running for only 2 mins dropped it back to normal :icon_twisted:

So......... Bigger rad and more airflow.... And pullers with shrouds are better than a pusher as an aux.....

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