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[IrishCJ6]

Hey,

Has anyone done this on a RHD CJ?

I'm making up new tie rod/drag link as I bent the originals beyond repair, I'm worried that using the larger diameter tubing (35mm) will foul on the springs unless I flip the tie rods.

Any experience or advice would be welcomed

[wildwood]

You can buy inserts for your outers fron the US about $10 you then need to drill arm and press tapered insert in.......Did it on the YJ when I went hi steer........

Will trawl for the source I used but seem to remember was a source from IOM .......

Other way is to taper ream your existing arm to larger size from top and use 1 ton TRE......but that will not be as easy.........and you are taking the meat away from the original material.....

here ya go.......not the company I got em from but the same......

Www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

[IrishCJ6]

Thanks for that and I thought I may need to go that way but what about the special RHD TRE on the passengers side (draglink to tierod) if I flip this to the top then the tapered hole will be facing the wrong way? Therefore do I have to buy a third insert and place one here?

[wildwood]

what they call the Y link on some forums........
yes will need a third for that one

[JamesH]

I've got goferit inserts on my WJ knuckles and they need a hole drilled to 19mm and then need to be welded in. Good mod though, keeps the tie rod a bit higher up and out the way

[IrishCJ6]

I've got goferit inserts on my WJ knuckles and they need a hole drilled to 19mm and then need to be welded in. Good mod though, keeps the tie rod a bit higher up and out the way

Did you get your inserts directly off Goferit or a third party?

[JamesH]

Direct, was a few years ago but I remember it being quite easy and straightforward

[IrishCJ6]

Is there any reason why you couldn't drill another hole in the LHS steering knuckle similar that of the RHS and do the steering linkage the same as it would be for a LHD vehicle? I'm going to be doing a tie rod flip anyway and may aswell make a new draglink wither normal LH/RH thread ends.

[5536paulj]

Not sure about yours but mine isn't long enough to drill another hole in, need a longer knuckle? I need to do the same thing as you eventually so am interested in whatever you come up with....

[IrishCJ6]

Yeah that's what I've found out as well. Now looking at a DJ knuckle as they have the double hole. Will let you know how I progress.

[IrishCJ6]

Looks like I have now got all this sorted, ended up asking some questions on one of the US forums and got put in contact with a guy from R & P 4WD (great bloke), so the long and short is, replace the LH steering knuckle with a DJ RHD steering knuckle (double hole like the RHS) do a tie rod flip and make the draglink/tierod exactly the same as a factory LHD CJ would have it (i.e. draglink to LHS knuckle first hole, tie rod from second hole to RHS knuckle (reverse of LHD CJ)) I was expecting the parts to be absorbent but not really.

DJ knuckle $35
PS straight pitman arm $35
Shipping $80
Goferit inserts $56 shipped
HD tierod threaded inserts $50 shipped
3 new tie rod ends £40
35mm CFS heavy wall tube 2m €30

So about $250 for a heavy duty flipped tie rod setup, don't think that is too bad.

Parts are on their way so will let you know how the buildup goes

[5536paulj]

Fantastic, let us now how it works out with a pic

[IrishCJ6]

Been a while since an update so here goes; was waiting for a couple of items that got stuck in Customs

So the DJ knuckle arrived and its just perfect, exactly the same as the RHS, so I have drilled out the TRE holes to match the new inserts. They suggest 3/4" hole but on a trial run I found this to big and the insert was far to loose, so I drilled 18.5mm and that has allowed a snug fit requiring a hammer to seat. They also suggest tacking the inserts in but the knuckles are cast/ductile steel and thus without special welding processes any weld will not adhere anyway so by being tight I don't need the tacks.



Once the insert is installed there is about 1/16" protruding from the underneath this has to be ground flat





So I've just dummied up the new TRE's and the threaded inserts to see what they look like, hopefully I'll get round to finishing off the draglink and tierod next week.

[xr6jeeper]

Correct me if im wrong but the way i read this is that youve drilled a 18.5mm hole all the way through the knuckle yes ?
then pressed a sleeve into it, surely if you dont weld it the sleeve will eventually wear and you will have a tre that can move up and down in the hole sounds dangerous mate but i might have misunderstood you.

[xr6jeeper]

Is the sleeve what we call a top hat fitting, that would make sense.

[bigjeepzj]

the ball joint dose the rotating and the big nut keeps the joint in

[xr6jeeper]

so is it a top hat fitting.

[IrishCJ6]

Yes, the insert has a cap on it and the new special nut prevents it from pulling up.

[xr6jeeper]

Gotcha 

[JamesH]

I had mine tig welded in and not ground flush but yours look good that way too. The welding to cast just need to be clean, hot and very slow cooling.

[IrishCJ6]

More work done on this now as I'm waiting on UJ's and spindle bearing to finish the axle,

Managed to get the tirerod and draglink bars cut/bored and milled today, just need to weld it all together now.

[IrishCJ6]

Well I got this all welded up yesterday and installed today, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, took it for a test run later today and all seems normal, big test will be offroad now.







One thing I did find different with the DJ knuckle was when I went to reinstall the cailper I found it fouled on a section of the moulding, seems they slightly differ to standard CJ LHS knuckles. Nothing a grinder wouldn't fix though.

[bigjeepzj]

nice job
Picking up a wj axle the week end to to a similar thing to my zj