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Author Topic: rear wheel bearing ?  (Read 6476 times)

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andyemb

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rear wheel bearing ?
« on: October 09, 2006, 08:59:15 PM »

hi all

i have a 1995 cherry 4.0l the offside rear tyre has started  scrubbing out must have lost 5 mm of tread in a month or so i get a squeak at low speed on every rotation of the back wheel sounds like the tyre is twisting and rubbing on the road.

i swapped the wheels over to see if it was a wheel problem but the squeak is still there from the tyre on the tarmac

i have took the half shaft out and it has a roller bearing in the axle tube its a dana 35c

my  haynes manuel is a wast of time saying take it to your dealer
 the bearing looks ok and the half shaft is only lightly scored but i cant see what else would do this ,do the half shafts wear out ? on the bearing surface as well as the bearing ?

is this a diy  job removing and replacing the bearing i have a slide hammer with a claw will this shift the bugger and any recommends on where to get a new bearing and seal

thanks in advance andy
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isle of man

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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2006, 09:15:09 PM »

did it not have a "c" clip on the end of the shaft? have you checked the flange for the hub is running true? if it is the roller type bearing they are the cheaper option lighthouse should have them.

http://http://www.birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=514

peter henry
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andyemb

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« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2006, 09:26:39 PM »

hi peter

thanks for the reply

yes it did have c clips in the dif , the hub looked to be spinning true if thats what you meen

cheers
andy
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isle of man

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« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2006, 09:31:29 PM »

ok........so if your shaft is true then you have bent another part of the axle i have seen the tubes bend, have a close look there, do you off road much?




peter henry
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andyemb

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« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2006, 09:43:47 PM »

not done a lot off road and never anything proper or rough i have towed a caravan a few times and a few cars for mates  towing a jaguar xj40 once is about the most work i have asked it to do and that didn't seem to have any bad affects on it at the time

do you think its more likely to be something bent than the bearing the only things i have changed are new rear springs and i fitted a lock right locker when the lsd went bad about 12 months ago

mybe i am better of just dumping the whole rear axel for a second hand one ?
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isle of man

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« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2006, 09:54:20 PM »

it's your call...........probably easier to change the axle pm kd he will have one or two kicking about, not sure on the cost though.




peter henry
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Tank

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« Reply #6 on: October 09, 2006, 09:54:49 PM »

Could the squeeking be a wheel bearing?It may look okay but could still be worn.Also check the spring location pin on the springs.Greggmo had a problem at Cheapfest where his broke and it allowed the axle to travel across towards the body causing it to scrub the inside of the tyre against the chassis.I know his is a YJ but i know the XJ`s have rear springs so worth a look at least if nothing but to rule it out.
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andyemb

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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2006, 10:03:08 PM »

cheers for all the help

it will give me a few more things to check tomorrow, just wish the noise was one that i could pin down to the bearing but sounds like the tyre twisting on the tarmac sort of a squeeking tightening sound once every revalution it does disapear at 50-60 mph
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isle of man

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« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2006, 10:08:15 PM »

silly question i know but you have checked the uj's on the prop shaft?





peter henry
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andyemb

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« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2006, 10:10:20 PM »

hi no i havent
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isle of man

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« Reply #10 on: October 09, 2006, 10:12:30 PM »

Quote from: "andyemb"
hi no i havent



add that to the check list also.




peter henry
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Mik

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« Reply #11 on: October 09, 2006, 10:13:16 PM »

Quote from: "andyemb"
i fitted a lock right locker when the lsd went bad about 12 months ago



I think your full locker is the problem. It sounds like its not releasing properly and causing wind-up.
Rather an extreme choice of locker for a non-froader IMHO. Far better with a TrueTrac.

Mik
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isle of man

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« Reply #12 on: October 09, 2006, 10:22:51 PM »

Quote from: "Mik"
Quote from: "andyemb"
i fitted a lock right locker when the lsd went bad about 12 months ago


I think your full locker is the problem. It sounds like its not releasing properly and causing wind-up.
Rather an extreme choice of locker for a non-froader IMHO. Far better with a TrueTrac.

Mik


mik, yes your right that would make sense also.



peter henry
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andyemb

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« Reply #13 on: October 09, 2006, 10:24:37 PM »

hi but would it do it all the time even in a strait line from start up and even on a loose surface like mud or grass ?

when i had to take the c clips out today i had a good look at the locker it seems to work ok and when driving along after a tight turn i can hear it unlock and release the wind up

but i supose if its not releasing on the side i am getting the squeek from that would explane it  :idea:
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Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #14 on: October 10, 2006, 09:06:12 AM »

The tyre wear you describe is unlikeley to be due to a halfshaft bearing. If it were that bad, you'd be able to move the wheel up and down and side to side by a noticable amount. The roller bearing is reasonably easy to replace if you can get the old one out. The shafts do wear and cost about £400 each from Chrysler.
It would be worth checking that the axle is aligned properly on the springs, and that the spring bushes are all still properly in place to eliminate any obvious alignment problem. You could also have this confirmed by having a proper 4 wheel alignment check done.
I'm inclined to aggree that the locker you have may also contribute, as it will tend to lock up on turns, causing accelerated tyre squeal and wear.
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eastryjeep

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« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2006, 11:54:12 AM »

Dopey question, have you checked to see if the wheel itself is running true?
Also, why not support the rear of the jeep on axle stands, block the front wheels, put the T'case in neutral and get a mate to turn the other rear wheel by hand.
First off just see if you can see an obvious foul & then using another floor mounted reference point set against the sidewall, the rim and any other moving bit, one at a time of course, ensure both rear wheels perform as advertised.
You could then turn the propshaft to drive the wheels just to reassure yourself nothing unexpected happens.
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Anonymous

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« Reply #16 on: October 10, 2006, 12:40:56 PM »

If it feels stiff, remove the rear prop, it'll tell you if it is before or after the axle. Have you made sure the preload and Backlash on the diff are right. make sure the R&P Heel and toe are correct if you are concerned that one side may not be releasing. (Not knowing the Lockright, I assume it's a ratchet type locker that released the fastest moving wheel when cornering.

EE
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andyemb

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« Reply #17 on: October 10, 2006, 05:28:44 PM »

thanks again everyone for all the help i am putting it all back together i dont think it is the bearing as there is  no play apart from about 1-mm of end-float .

i have measured from loads points on the axle and body and all seem to be about the same

the locker seems to be working fine with no wear showing which is interesting as i have done 10000 miles on it and both wheels unlock
but i cant dismiss this as there is no way of testing it with the weight of the car on the floor

the crown and pinion look to be wearing correct as well , just got to reseal the diff housing whack some oil in  and try it again.

both the pins are in the axle to springs as well they haven't slipped the bushes look fine as well one thing i can see is the shackles are not  in the same position one seems to sit further back than the other so i will get it rolling again and have a look at these

am i correct in thinking that if both shackles dont move freely together then it would push the rear axle out of alignment ?
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isle of man

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« Reply #18 on: October 10, 2006, 05:37:29 PM »

could be the normal saggy spring syndrome........check the vehicle height when back on the ground, from hub centre to wheel arch both sides.
guess the squeak is not a dry prop then?



peter henry
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andyemb

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« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2006, 07:39:37 PM »

checked out the prop seems fine had the car running on axle stands with the back wheels of the ground and its silent

the noise disapears after 40mph i did the normal tests on the locker and it works how it should

just hoping for a dry day tomorow and i will undue the springs and check the  shackles fingers crossed  and i will swap the brake drums over woth a try  :?
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andyemb

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« Reply #20 on: October 11, 2006, 07:42:31 PM »

Quote from: "andyemb"
checked out the prop seems fine had the car running on axle stands with the back wheels of the ground and its silent

the noise disapears after 40mph i did the normal tests on the locker and it works how it should

just hoping for a dry day tomorow and i will undue the springs and check the  shackles fingers crossed  and i will swap the brake drums over woth a try  :?


just to add there new leafsprings as well  going to be looking for a new axel at this rate , can i fit one with out the lsd in it as these just seem to be more trouble than there worth to me if i go for a second hand axle i dont want to be back with worn out clutch packs in the diff again ?
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Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #21 on: October 12, 2006, 08:25:33 AM »

If you want a non LSD axle, you will have to get one from a '97 to 2000 4.0, as these were the only ones that had this, unless you find an earlier non UK spec car where the LSD was a customer option. Don't forget to check the diff ratio is the same as yours.
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