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[prozac]

:oops:  :oops:   It's 'busy' under there isn't it!! Not helped by the plumbing for the multipoint LPG system ....

I think I can see 6 of the spark plug caps ....

I'm guessing the big air box doobry with 4.7 written on it has to come off to access the other 2.

I AM looking at the right things aren't I .....

How do those caps come off? disconnect the wire and pull?
any recommendations for spark plugs , considering I'm running on LPG. I liked NGK on the Jag, they seemed to last much longer, gapped them down a bit ..... which ones would I need for the GC?
Thanks in advance

Prozac

[mack]

I'm not familiar with your engine, but if the top pic is showing what you think are spark plug leads, then it itsn't  

The "wire" to the plug will be much thicker.

As you have a V8 engine there will be four plugs on each side, of the engine, you may well have to remove the air filter box etc to access them.

Good luck.

[Mike Pavelin]

Youu have a coil on plug ignition system, i.e there is an ignition coil on top of each spark plug. Each one has a plug with 2 small wires going to it as in your photo and is secured with a 10mm bolt. There are no HT leads.
Remove them one at a time, the rear ones are hard to get at and you'll have to remove the plenum chamber on top of the engine. On the rear ones, make sure you refit the engine earth straps.  The Mopar/Champion plugs from a dealer are cheap as chips and good for 30000 miles, but don't know if your particular LPG installation reqires a different plug.

[prozac]

Cheers once again Mike. It was serviced in August at the Jeep Coventry stealership.... is it likely they would have changed the plugs on a 82ishK service??
It does start and runs excellently, you just need to turn the ignition key for longer.......  gets me thinking...... How quickly does unleaded lose it ..uuuummmpphhh? I last filled the petrol up in August :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  
Maybe I should go and fill her up with some superunleaded and see if that makes any difference :?  :?  :?

[Mike Pavelin]

Due a 30, 60 and 90000 miles or every 2 years if serviced to schedule.

Long crank times on 4.7s are often due to a seal in the fuel pump failing, allowing the residual fuel pressure in the fuel rail to leak back to the tank when turned off. Next time you start from cold, try turning the ignition on for a second, turn off, turn on and wait for a second, then crank and see if it fires up straight away. If it does, that's probably what the problem is.

[prozac]

will do!!!

[JamesH]

I have been using Bosch platinum plugs in my 4.0l running on LPG and find they do the job well and seem to last forever. I have also been recommended Iridium plugs specifically for LPG. However, mine ran just the same on the stock spec copper plugs.

Mine occasionally cranks a bit longer before starting, it should be that the petrol isn't there (fuel pressure should be the same shouldn't it??) but that's what it feels like. I just turn the ignition on an wait for a second or two ( a habit from driving diesels anyway) before I start it. This seems to help a bit, as does having a fully charged, powerful battery.

[prozac]

Well it's certainly cold and damp ou there this morning.... just been out and did what you said Mike/James ....turned on wait a second or two, turn off, turn on wait then start ....started straight away.
I'll muck about with starting procedures ...also fill with fresh petrol....if it gets
worse I'll investigate further.....

[Mike Pavelin]

Die kraftstoffpompe ist kaputt.

[prozac]

Was ist das?
 
Does this involve a new fuel pump.... or just a seal ...... or nothing.
Where is the fuel pump?
What sort of a job is a replacement?

Cost?

[Mike Pavelin]

You have to remove the fuel tank, the pump module is in the top of it. There is a repair kit available from Chrysler to replace the seal in the pump if that's the problem.

[prozac]

Sounds like a job for the future ..... at least till I empty the tank of petrol I've just put in ...... so probably Christmas