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[scrw]

[Bishops Finger]

Err OK

The rotor is at the top of the distributor

When the engine is turned over it spins and should provide via contacts in the bottom of the distributor cap sparks which in turn via the leads to the spark plugs will spark the fuel in the engine which causes the ignition to make a petrol engine work.......

So if dizzy needs replacing therefore best to do rotor

Do I get a prize??
 :lol:  :lol:

[tim_aka_tim]

Just as the distributor contacts get corroded from all that arcing, so does the rotor arm. Take out the rotor arm and look for chunks blown out of it, or white/black powder.

[PtP]

I guess I'll just get another one and stick it in. :lol:

[TJMart]

HOORAH  

[Roland]

:shock:

[PtP]

The new rotor is now installed! :roll:

It still runs as sweet as a nut.

[MOCAJ]

keep it as a spare, just in case

they do tend to get as pitted etc as the cap itself, can be cleaned with emery cloth but that just widens the gap slightly

glad your running ok  

[PtP]

After letting the Jeep stand doing nothing for three weeks, it seems like I’ve got my misfire/slight stutter back!

I’ve already changed the plugs, the distributor cap, and the rotor arm and I thought that had solved the problem. Well it seemed to for a while.

The symptoms are that I can get an occasional misfire either on light throttle or whilst accelerating, but it seems totally random. Also, when you accelerate hard, its as though the engine seems to want more fuel. I regularly jet wash the engine at the same time as the rest of the Jeep and I suspect water might have got into the TPS.

I’m now beginning to think it’s more likely to be the throttle position sensor rather than the crank position sensor. Are the CPS and the TPS expensive items?

Does anyone know what the symptoms are when these two sensors play up?

[Bishops Finger]

It misfires....?

Pete try using it as a DD for a while and see how it copes with real world driving situations....stuff may dry out/and or settle down

[Panic mechanic!]

i hope when you jet wash the engine it was hot....

[eastryjeep]

My vote still goes to a knackered CPS, they only seem to last about 60k to 80k miles at the best of times and if you are regularly pressure washing the engine bay that will only help it on it's way.
It's on the near-side of the bell housing, about an inch back from the rear face of the block and at about the 2 O'clock position when viewed from the front of the engine, when I last changed one they were not all that expensive if you fitted it yourself.
But the exchange rate aint what it used to be either is it Mr Brown ?!

Found this too after a bit of a search, but it shows it's not a job to be afraid of.



And the text to go with the pic!



All rights etc remain the property of Haynes of course.

[Tank]

keep it as a spare, just in case

they do tend to get as pitted etc as the cap itself, can be cleaned with emery cloth but that just widens the gap slightly

glad your running ok  

Found best thing for cleaning the end is to rub it against a tyre.Doesnt take any off,just removes the crap.Try it,i was suprised too

[captain cavalier]

Used do do mine on the mini that way too once a week

Plus everything else you needed to start the mini.

Folded fag packet inserted between loose points ect

[PtP]

My vote still goes to a knackered CPS, they only seem to last about 60k to 80k miles at the best of times .............

Mine’s done around 55k if I recall, so I think it could be on my “To Do” list when the weather warms up.

Thanks everyone for all the input again.

I’ve checked for error codes and there aren’t any. :shock:  and give it a good regular run about and see if this either dries out any damp or throws up an error code.

Does anyone know the approximate cost of the two sensors?


Incidentally, I’ve been reading on another car forum about Jeep TPSs and how they interact with the clockspring and how a badly running engine can be blamed on the TPS whilst the fault is with the clockspring. Have a look here: http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewtop ... f=1&t=2468