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[bill99]

XJ Jeep Cherokee 4 litre auto 1999

Regarding the universal joints on the front axel of a 99 xj is it possible to do this without extracting the drive shafts out of the axel?

I read a post where it was suggested that you can get these out and in again with a large G-clamp and appropriate size sockets, but it did not make clear if it all has to come out and onto a bench, or if you can do it on the car.

The reason for asking is I would like to avoid pulling out the shafts and possibly damaging the oil seal when re-fitting it. Or is it better just to pull it out and be done with it???

My local mot garage is not interested in doing this; they suggest taking it to a transmission specialist but on the phone I get the “big bucks impression” from them, is it that bad??

Anyone suggest a good garage interested in doing jeep work around the West Lothian area?


bill

[Mike Pavelin]

The shafts have to come out. Any competent mechanic should be able to do both sides in 2-3 hours.

[Green Jeep]

I've only worked on earlier Cherokee's (1994ish) presuming they are the same it's quite an easy job, yes the shafts have to come off, you'll need a 36mm socket to remove the hub nut, (Halfords stocked one) otherwise basic tools, be very carful when fitting the UJ that a needle doesn't fall off and sit behind the end cap as you try to hammer them back together.

Haynes/Chilton manuals show how to do this, I guess there are pages on the internet?

Good luck, Maf

[wildwood]

Easy job, don't be worried about damaging the seals.. if you are careful about putting shafts back (horizontal to ground ) no problem.

Get yourself a big as possible big red cheap as chips 'chinese'  vice from Machine Mart, about £25... Use this to squeeze new UJs in  with the 2 socket trick....
WD or similar a few days before and when shafts are out clean UJs with wire brush on drill or similar before dismantling.
Use the vice and 2 sockets to get the old ones out BUT.... you will probably need to creep up with the BFH to shift em from their bed of rust, really wack 'em you can only hurt your hands and whatever they tell you they do need a wack to get em going... good luck.

[sprintagogo]

To remove your driveshaft you need to undo and remove the 3 hub bolts, I have circled 2 in the picture and the other is out of view behing the U-joint. A 13mm bihex(12 point) socket should be a good fit on these bolts or if they are badly corroded a 1/2" 12 point socket can often get them as it is a bit smaller.

Once these bolts are out you need to place a deep, stout socket between the axle case and the ear of the u-joints as shown in the same picture. Then get an assistant to turn the steering (if you have the engine running the power steering will help) to squash the socket until the hub moves by 1-2mm. Then swap sides to the rear and do the same to crack that side by a few mm and keep swapping sides to 'walk' the hub out of the axle. You will then be able to pull the hub and driveshaft complete from the axle and will end up with this -

You have a choice, you can choose to swap the UJ without seperating it from the hub or if you would rather split it then before you start to do any of the shaft removal you need to loosen the 36mm hub nut. This nut can be stubborn as it is tightened to 175ft/lb and with time/corrossion can be a swine to remove. It might break a 1/2" bar so best tackled with 3/4" sockets if you have any. If you choose to leave it alone you will end up with this once the uj is removed -

This is a picture of a non-ABS shaft, yours will have a slotted ABS sensor ring which sits quite close to the UJ so if you have to get personal with the hammer during UJ removal watch you don't hit the ABS ring like I did the first time I did one. The best way to get the old UJ out and the new one in is in a big vice or with a press. The circlips that hold the UJ cups in are internal and can be difficult to spot due to rust and muck but trust me, they are there! Examine the new one to see where they are, they sit in the groove next to the seals.

The inner axle seals shouldn't leak after shaft removal/replacement unless you are very rough and they are on their last legs anyway. There is a metal guide before the seal to help the shaft go into the seal centrally. While you have the shaft out get a large washer on a peice of threaded rod and scrape out all the muck in the axle tube then get a hoover tube in there to suck up any remaining debris. This prevents you pushing any crap into the seals and diff.

You need the larger UJ for your vehicle, part number should be something like 5-297x, or 5-760x for the genuine Spicer one.

Hope this helps. Spicer recomend not adding grease to the cups of non-greasable u-joints, they are greased for life from the factory.

[rob.79]

hi
managed to replace the n/s UJ on the father inlaws 96 cherokee 2.5 sport, mot fail,  i did it in place, loosened the upper and lower BJ nuts to allow for some movement, removing the locking circlips,  and with a long punch was able to knock out the caps from the back, once the caps where removed this alowed me to wiggle out the Uj, and to refit, i slotted in the UJ, and tapped in the caps one at a time (carfuly, with a correctly matched old socket), then refitted the new circlips.... was a little fidly but took about hour and half, and easier than stripping down the hub, all those nasty seized bolts!!!..

[bill99]

Excellent help there guys thanks, and special thanks for the pictures sprint, pics are worth a thousand words as the saying goes.

Got the joints on order from Lighthouse, the guy there also mentioned scraping out the axle tube before re-fitting, I was giving that some thought but a big washer on a bit of screwed rod sounds good.

I’ll look at the way you did it Rob but I also have the ABS brake sensor ring, looks busy in there at first glance


cheers

bill

[sprintagogo]

I'm not convinced that Rob's way of doing this will actually work? I would have to see it to believe it.

Besides, do it the right way and put the hub and bolts back in with some grease then if you need to take it apart again in the future to change a hub or anything then you will have no fear of getting it apart. I did a hub swap on mine recently and timed myself and it took 22 minutes from the time I wheeled the jack out of the garage to the moment I slammed the garage door shut again, finished. I must admit though, I have probably had the hubs and shafts out around every six months so I have had practice and things definitely aren't rusted together!

[captain cavalier]

if not already said

dont forget to remove circlips first

did one then forgot on second one


DOH

[Dave69]

take the shaft out completly, removed the hub first which can be a pain if it's not been off before. changing the uj itself takes about 30mins, but be aware it will probably be siezed in. dont be afraid to hit it. talk to lighthouse jeep for replacement options as they are not that expensive. putting the shaft back in is very simple and nothing realy to worry about

[rob.79]

it defo works,
    i've also changed a ford cargo 3.5t prop joint ths way before,  the o/s one will need replacing shortly,  found a little movement when i serviced it recently, shouldn't take long this time, but at that time, did it that way because i had limited tools, no 12 point sockets and no 36 mm, (about 6k worth of tools locked up in my box at work, but couldn't get to it!!!!!!!) a most unhappy day,  had a selection of spanners, a long punch,  a basic socket set,  some circlip pliers and a large hammer....  at the end of the day, did the job, jeep fixed! "the repair manual is only there as a guide"  

  but if your not sure Bill, follow the distructions, take your time and take off as much, or, as little, as you feel you need too, and it is much easier to replace the UJ using a vice or a press, (with the shaft removed first)... as long as the jobs done in the end, it doesnt matter how you go about it....
  
                        

[bill99]

I’ve asked around a couple of garages and one of them said he does it without taking out the shafts.

Anyway I think I’m going to do it myself just so I know it’s done right and the dirt is all cleaned out of the axle tube, it would be a bummer to have the diff grind itself to death just because of a universal joint change.

cheers guys

bill

[mack]

Did you get it done yet Bill?

If it went ok you can do mine for me!

 

[bill99]

Not yet, I have the bits from lighthouse and have been soaking the bolts etc with WD40 but I need to get a free weekend.

Actually a friend has come up with an experienced mechanic at a local garage who does some work for himself and he’s an old hand that knows his stuff so I’ve arranged to get it done there just to establish a good contact for any future stuff.

Seems like a good idea to me so we’ll see how it goes, it would be good to have someone who’s not immediately on the defensive at the mention of a jeep.


bill

[Green Jeep]

Seems like a good idea to me so we’ll see how it goes, it would be good to have someone who’s not immediately on the defensive at the mention of a jeep.

Good idea, once you've seen it done you should be able to do it next time, I've even changed a UJ in a field, I carry an old 18mm socket which is the perfect size for taping the caps back on.