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[Bulldog67]

So, dropped all the fluid out, flushed it thru, done new anti-freeze at 50/50m and slung in a bottle of 'water wetter' - and altho better its still an issue. Several times at the top of long climbs on saturday I was 30 secs away from pulling over, and on the way home had a 10 min stop on the hard shoulder of the m25 as it couldnt cope with the long hills.

Plans then are:

1. Flow Kooler High Performance Water Pump - Q. or you have a better recommendation?

2. High Performance Thermostat - Q. do I get one that opens at 160 or 180 degrees?

3. Flexalite Performance fan - Q. mainly as Bubba says I have one in the spares piles - anyone used one and got results?

And Im still undecided on hood vents, I not keen on cuttin holes in a bonnet altho I do have a bonnet spare. I guess the obvious route would be to buy some and stick them on and see if I get used to them.

I need alll this done before CF or it will be a loing slow jouney if I have to sit at 50 mph all the way 

Cheers doods

[willo]

you need to hold the water up in the rad for longer......

[dieselj20]

190 stat fan cowl twin electric fans

[Dave69]

forget water wetter as this will not solve your current issue.


fit a bigger rad option one but still might not cure the answer just delay it

fit two large electric fans one being a dual speed, these will pull the air through the rad causing a drop in temperature or at least make it stable.

fit some bonnect vents to allow the engine temperature to escape more efficiently

[Cockney Boy]

Is you rad full of mud? Is your right foot too heavy? Is your fan belt slipping?

[Bulldog67]

so twin elec fans - is that a fabricate something random job or a specific part?

and thermostat that opens at 190 - is this related to the the fan spec?

and thoughts on the performance water pump?

[Cockney Boy]

Using a perfrormance water pump will only mean the hot water will be push around the system faster and not as previously stated stay in the radiator longer. i would be reverse flushing your radiator first and dont do it while in the truck, take it out and turn it upside down to do it just in case there are cores blocked.

[Bishops Finger]

Start with cleaning rad both front and back...then if needed flush

[jeepcj]

Unless you've got some 454ci big block Chevy  under the bonnet, a mildly modified vehicles cooling system should be able to cope easily with day to day driving
You need to find the root course behind the overheating, throwing a load of performance parts at it won't do it any good. If the cooling system is operating as it should and  you have the correct fan and most importantly a radiator cowl,  I would look at the engine itself. Check the timing, then the fuel mixture, it could be running lean, not necessarily at idle, but at a certain engine RPM. Is the engine under load when it gets hot?. If that doesn't do any good do a compression test on the engine, perhaps the head gaskets gone?.
Don't go cutting hole in the bonnet, it isn't necessary.

[Dave69]

the problem BD has is when on long inclines the engine coolant temperature rises, this is normal as it's a specific test conducted by the manufacturers, normally this is done with a preset load applied to the dyno and a constant throttle/speed.

BD has this problem but with nowhere near the applied load.

What the problem might be is the water pump is too efficient so its flowing the coolant through the rad too quick so no time in allowing it to cool.

the rad could be blocked by either mud etc or too many bent fins so the efficiency is greatly reduced.

There is no radiator cowl so the fan is not working at its best.

If the fan is already a single electric type is the flow rate good enough for the job?

dual stage fans are good as the second stage will operate at a preset temp so no fear of over cooking. A second one could be istalled either to cover the whole rad or to increase the air flow due to smaller flow rate of the origional. The second could be on a manual overide for peace of mind.

One thing BD how hot was the engine bay if it was seriously cooking then your not expelling the air efficiently. Bonnet vents are there for a reason especially on large cc engines. Vents at the front expell the air taken from the rad when at road speed (Jag XJR), vents at the back expell the air from the bay when your driving slow.

Remember BD is stopped or flat ooot

[Bulldog67]

Just had the timing done by a pro recommended on rodsandsods so hopefully he knew what he was doing, seems to run ok now. It does still stall for a milli sec if floored from standing but he reckons that is the carb linkage

The idea for the pump came from JP mag this month as they did a 'common fsj probs' article and overheating is one of them.

Im assuming as the regear isnt done then the engine works harder to get it up hills?

The rad is new from the PO, so I cant be 100 certain its the right one, but is new none the less. I will see if I can find the thread that irish put up about some new fancy rad he got for his 360.

I have a cowl, but will measure it against the one I have in the garage, and I have a spare rad as well so I could try that.

I have this flexalite fan as well so could try that.

Another idea via fsj is to either put spacers at the rear of the bonnet so it is lifted slightly to allow it to vent

[Cockney Boy]

Just a quick question, how confident are you that your temp gauge is ok?

[willo]

Does the heater work ok?

[jeepcj]

If its still available and it fits, this guy has a Griffin rad for sale, if that don't keep it cool nothing will

http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/stuff-sale/brand-new-parts-sale-struts-mopar-440-brakes-diff-beadlocks-fuel-pump-rad-59712

[Bulldog67]

Temp guage works as it was protested briefly at my continued use (only had 10 yds to get home) when the brakes were locked on 

And heater works a treat

Any view on the griffin rad? Im not around to measure up right now

[Cockney Boy]

So are you saying you have didgy brakes now? Could this be making the truck work harder thus an increase in temp? Ade you ever thorght of getting this truck professionally re-built and letting someone else have the headache?

[willo]

CB the truck is more or less sorted, quit bangin on at ade, he's just got a few niggles to get sorted after having a real shakedown cruise at the weekend. I say hats off to the chap, it looks and sounds awesome

[Bubba]

sounds very like the viscous fan is shot to me new rad and still hot ? heater works a treat so you can assume the water pump is giving flow put the fixes fan on from your stores i think the fan is the prob


or the reinforcing spring in lower hose has rusted and when you increase revs it gets slowly sucked in flat check it out   

[Bulldog67]

So are you saying you have didgy brakes now? Could this be making the truck work harder thus an increase in temp? Ade you ever thorght of getting this truck professionally re-built and letting someone else have the headache?

Brakes were dodgy, they locked on after it had been sttod for yonks during the rebuild, new pistons and some brake fluid appear to have sorted that prob - they now provide a very decent skid  

After a weekend on its first outing after all the work its had done Im pretty pleased it has only come back needing the overheating sorted - and TBH I would drive it anywhere tomorrow, just not as quickly as I would like  

And while Im here, all you doomsayers sayin that soa would be a deathtrap blahdiblah - its imrpoved it out of sight, its 100% better than stock, and I can now sit at 75 mph on 35" muds with just a few fingers resting on the steering wheel, no wandering around, no vibes, nowt  

Fuel consumption is prob bankrupting me tho but I try and ignore that bit  

Besides CB, yesterday I didnt even know what a water pump and thermostat looked like, today I do, which is what folk on here usually bang on at me about

And cheers Will  

[Bulldog67]

sounds very like the viscous fan is shot to me new rad and still hot ? heater works a treat so you can assume the water pump is giving flow put the fixes fan on from your stores i think the fan is the prob


or the reinforcing spring in lower hose has rusted and when you increase revs it gets slowly sucked in flat check it out   

cheers Kev, will dig around in spares on thurs for fan, no time right now, and will check lower hose but I think all the hoses were renewed as well

[Bulldog67]

is there an easy way to check current fan?

[bgbazz]

Yo Mr Dawg..I've used the spacers under the hinges trick before and it helped a lot, but to make it worthwhile the gap you create has to be about an inch or a bit more. Also if you try that, make doubly sure the latch at the front is engaging properly because of the angle change!

Dunno how much air your current fans is moving, but at idle on my CRD, I have a mini hurricane blowing down there..if I leave the bonnet off the latch, but in the lowered position, I can lift the bonnet up an inch or so just by revving the motor. I think you'll find that the efficiency of the fan drops right off as you get to cruising speed because the normal airflow through the front is usually higher than what the fan can suck. I had a Landy series 3 with a 253 cu in V8 back in oz and I used no blades on the fan at all..just a medium sized electric one which I used around town or at slower speeds.

[Bubba]

i have seen new bottom hoses fitted missing there spring

fan check with engine stone cold the fan should feel stiff when turning like you are stirring jamm with a spoon and if you try and spin it by hand it should stop as soon as you let go  

the flexolite distorts to provide more air as the revs rise

[Cockney Boy]

In my mind they were constructive questions Willo 

quit bangin on at ade

[Bubba]

its true will bulldog has come far its true but it is only recently he understood the bonnet was at the sharp pointy end of his jeep