Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[gregwho]

Does anyone know if on a WJ (2.7CRD), the electrical connector can be removed from the injector body without taking the injector out?  I havent got the black death....yet, but I do have a broken fuel return connector which has snapped so that half of it is still in the top of the injector, and of course its on number 5.  Its impossible to access the top of the injector to take the old bit out.  The injectors do have a "nut" just below where the electrical connector is, and I wondered if I might be able to undo that and remove the top (electrical) part of the injector?  Im just trying to avoid the inevitable £500 to drop the engine.

Dutch, any ideas?!

[Lukemagnum]

I'd have ago at most things, but I don't think I'd like to start dismantling the injector in situ. Even if you did, with the space available, you'd probably still need to lower the the rear of the engine or drill the scuttle panel. You may also find that the broken bit is inside the main body and isn't part of the electrical part anyway.

That bleed off fitting is push fit with an O ring on it. Have you tried forcing a small screw (size it up from the top section that's come off) into inside of the broken piece to grip it and then just ease it out?

[gregwho]

That bleed off fitting is push fit with an O ring on it. Have you tried forcing a small screw (size it up from the top section that's come off) into inside of the broken piece to grip it and then just ease it out?

Good plan on the screw, i'll give that a go for sure.  Like you said the access is pretty tight, I just thought that if the thread wasnt too long on the top part of the connector, I may just be able to squeeze it out...of course, if i destroy the injector, thats a bad plan!

[gregwho]

Damn...got a screw that fits, but there just isnt enough room to get any pressure down on the screw to get it to bite into the plastic .

Any other ideas?

[Lukemagnum]

Do you know the internal diameter of the pipe? To get the screw to bite, it needs to be small enough to go a few mill in before you start turning it. Alternatively, a tapered tap for thread cutting should get it, the smallest one I've got is an M1.2, I'm sure the pipe must be larger than that so you should get one to fit.

BTW, £500 to lower the back of the engine? I heard that lowering the gearbox gives enough clearance. I've not needed to do mine, but I've done it before on another car by swapping out the cross member bolts with lengths of studding, from what I can see it's a half hour job and with the Jeep you don't even have to jack it up to get under it - unless someone knows different?