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[BIGDRY]

Hi all whilst checking condition of my rear drum brakes I refitted drum and noticed that to enable insertion of the split pin into the large castlenated hub nut that the tightening torq was not as high as stated in Haynes manual. I found that if I torqed up towards higher figure I could not get pin in to hole due to misalignment. Question is do these hub nuts need to so highly torqued 200lb in manual) if pin is in and nut  is tight. ( I was getting about 100lb) if so I guess I need an additional washer to end up with hub but in correct place... Thx

[Dave69]

the nut needs to be tight to prevent movement, there should be more than one position for the cotter pin to be inserted. if the manual says 200 then i would apply force to or near that value that allows you to insert the pin

[5536paulj]

If that's the nut that holds the two piece axle shafts together I would treat 200 as a minimum as problems with that type of shaft are related to the nut not being tight enough a lot of the time

[eastryjeep]

Yup, regard 200 ft.lbs as a minimum, or better still order up some 1 piece axles and ditch the AMC Corporate jobs as fast as your wallet will allow.
With 1 piece half shafts fitted your rear end will be as strong as any on the market. Well those that don't have a truss anyway!

[wildwood]

  if they are not tight enough the drum will wobble on the splines and then chew the splines and then there will be no drive to that wheel.

Trail fix is a spot of weld to cure......

So 200 ft lbs at least and aim for the one piece axles.

[BIGDRY]

ok so i borrow a large torq wrench and try to jeff it round to torq and next hole.  My feeling is that it wont align tbh, but i'll try.
So what the best way , wheels on the ground handbrake on max?

[Dutch]

wheels on the ground handbrake on max?

Huh ... what handbrake 

Question for the technically challenged ; how do you gauge 200 ft lbs if you have no access to a torque wench

[wildwood]

You can't....
Many moons ago I had to torque the rear hub nut of my Beetle ( only way to get to the brakes and bearings and stuff) to 250ft lbs engine in gear and handbrake on and still moved it across the drive.

Ended up hard up against a brick wall of the house to be able to do it

[Mike Pavelin]

wheels on the ground handbrake on max?

Huh ... what handbrake 

Question for the technically challenged ; how do you gauge 200 ft lbs if you have no access to a torque wench

Put a 12 inch bar on a socket and get a 14 stone bloke's full weight on it. Voila! 200 foot pounds.

[5536paulj]

If you're not 14 stone use a longer bar!

 

[Dutch]

Right'o 

[Dave69]

You can't....
Many moons ago I had to torque the rear hub nut of my Beetle ( only way to get to the brakes and bearings and stuff) to 250ft lbs engine in gear and handbrake on and still moved it across the drive.

Ended up hard up against a brick wall of the house to be able to do it

Been there done that so went and bought an impact gun

[Dave69]

just to confirm Mkie

12" bar =  200lbs (14st) for 1ft movement
24" bar =  100lbs (7st) for 1ft movement
36" bar =  50lbs(3.5st) for 1 ft movement

this will be nut initiall tight so no movement then turn the nut 1ft distance using what ever bar and you should be in the ball park for the correct applied torque

[Dutch]

Dave,  a days spannering on my rear axle still stands to fix my OS oil seal.  Just have to pick a suitable free Saturday once the weather perks up a bit.

Was just wondering if an under torqued nut has something to do with it.

[Dave The Sparky]

Think its more likely to be that's its possibly 33 years old and been stood a while Dutch

[Dutch]

Think its more likely to be that's its possibly 33 years old and been stood a while Dutch

Dave,  I changed that same one seal myself 3 years ago and was dry for quite a bit.  Then after one season the whole inside of the wheel & tire was covered in oil radiating outward.  I did change the diff oil that season as well and if I'm right fill till you can feel the level with your pinky finger through the small filler hole. 

Or would that be overfilled and run out the tube at the outboard end.

[Dave The Sparky]

I was only joking Dutch..

Blocked breather, damaged seal or a groove or corrosion in the drive shaft is more likely to be your problem, but it isn't down to the torque of the drive hub nut, that just stops the wheel turning when it goes bang.

[eastryjeep]

Heat the flange in the oven to about 100 degrees for half an hour (29 mins if fan oven). That shouldnt damage anything I can remember, then line it up on the shaft and carefully seat it with a mallet. Install the nut with a rattle gun and check for tightness when flange is cold again. Just get it on straight or youll wish you had bought 1 piece shafts!
If you really can't get the pin hole to line up with the castilated nut, re-drill a new hole at about 90 degrees from the original and always fit a new split pin.
Try not to break the drill as you pass through the orig hole or you'll be a very sorry bunny.

[Bubba]

to be fair reading this i have to say

1 you should not need to touch nut to play with brakes or drum on a amc 20

2 if it was loose enough too make the drum sloppy you would lose drive and be shopping for a new hub as the splines would be shagged in less time than it takes for a politician to tell a lie

3 the reason there is so much fuss about the tightness is the fact that the hub when new has no splines at all and  you tighten the ever lovin feck out off the nut so the shaft cuts/presses the splines in to the hub

4 in the field the biggest problem is splitting the hub from the shaft  not the nut itself

the amc 20 is a good axle with a poor hub and shaft design but looked after stands up well but a one piece conversion sorts this once and for all