Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[DarthLowen]

Hi gang!

Been a minute since I posted something on the forum. After my last posts my father-in-law was able to enjoy his Jeep until recently it started acting up again. The phenomenon is the following: while cruising, he feels a sudden short jolt (I'm guessing gearbox) after which the check engine light comes on. When he turns off the car and turns it on again, the check engine light is gone. He's a really relaxed driver (read: sloooow), so he unfortunately doesn't know/feel the difference between a car stuck in limp mode or not. I haven't been able to reproduce the issue driving it myself yet. It has the following codes (some likely unrelated).

Engine Control Module:
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit (it's in the mass airflow sensor I read, which I already replaced, so I guess it's not the sensor, haven't read the live data yet with WJDiag Pro)
P0702 Transmission Control (generic code for issues with the transmission?)
P0190 Fuel Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (haven't replaced the sensor yet, also haven't read the live data yet with WJDiag Pro)
P0340 CMP Position Sensor Circuit (replaced the sensor already, didn't fix it)

Transmission Control Module:
P240D ID 44 Engine T-Case Switch Message

I tried to replace the t-case 5-position sensor; bought a new, but apparently faulty, unit from a German jeep shop (couldn't find it anywhere else at the time), but it immediately threw a P2502, transmission slipping. When I measured the resistance at the ECM (between pins 29-21) I noticed that both 4Lo and 4AllTime read 60 Ohm, neutral 200 Ohm. I then checked the old sensor and it read roughly 60/200/400/700/1200 Ohm according to spec, so I put it back and the P2502 disappeared. So it's NOT the sensor (unless it fails when hot or so) and NOT the wiring (unless it rubbed through somewhere and shorts while driving).

I also found a shifter-PCB that could be the cause of the P0702, but not sure if that causes this jolt? Either way at >350EUR for this PCB, I'm done firing the parts cannon at this thing, it's getting ridiculous.

I read the codes both when the MIL was illuminated and when it was not, the codes all came back exactly the same, so the code triggering the MIL to turn on disappears again? I would guess that it would get saved?

Could use some help figuring out this issue.
Oh, and if you have tips on the other codes, always welcome as well!

Cheers
Nic

[DarthLowen]

Update:

I did a road trip with the WJDiag Pro app connected, cleared all codes before the ride and monitored some live values. To my surprise, the transmission code did not occur during the trip but the 3 other engine codes did AND the jolt that was being felt, directly relates to the fuel pressure code! The pressure reading jumped from a correct pressure reading to 0, causing the MIL to light up. The transmission is no longer suspect and none of the sensors are neither, this now shifted to an electrical issue.

After more research, it appears that all these sensors potentially share a common wire/harness and that it's a known issue that these can get damaged and short out. My next move will be to completely rewire the following sensors:

- intake air temp
- cam position
- fuel rail pressure
- t-case switch (there's a Jeep bulletin regarding this wire, causing a different code P0836 that I don't have, but I'm replacing the wiring anyway)

I will also be checking the transmission connector for oil, because that appears to be a known issue as well. There's even an adapter available that stops oil wicking into the wiring: https://jeepswj.com/tips/ (point 4)

Will keep you posted...

[DarthLowen]

As promised, an update on the sensor issues. I have completely rewired the 4 sensors with 1mm2 wire (18AWG), reused the connectors because they were fine (had my doubts about the fuel rail pressure switch connector though because 'wiggling' it caused the fault to appear/disappear). Rewired the t-case switch with 1.5mm2 wire (16AWG). I didn't reuse any of the existing wires and I didn't open up the harness to expose any splices (for the CMP connector power supply for example, which is on splice S168), I was lucky that all signals were available at the ECU C1 connector. I routed the new cables a different, more accessible way. I also put the wires in a sleeve, finished it with heatshrink etc. For once in my life I kinda did a decent job 

After that, I did a test drive to discover that all codes went away except for the P0190 (fuel rail pressure), still when wiggling the connector, the signal was intermittent. I re-measured the connector, which was all good and then decided it was the sensor. I replaced the sensor (the original is obsolete, there is a replacement kit: BOSCH F 00R 004 269, includes a new adapter and sealing cone which were 100% required to fit the new sensor) and voila, problem GONE!

I hope this post helps someone out in the future.

PS: Too bad this forum appears to be dead, it has provided me with a lot of info over the years.

[Jonny Jeep]

I read your posts but don't know the WG or the app as it's all a bit new to me, having a 97 TJ.

It's sad that it's been very quiet on here for a long time. I think most people are on FB these days but I think that's useless as far as following a thread, and I much prefer forums as far as finding info or helping people out goes.

I have occasionally replied to posts on FB but can never find the posts again as facebook just spews out too much random shite.

[DarthLowen]

I can imagine most people on this forum are less familiar with the Mercedes powered WG, not sure how popular the 2.7CRD was (Especially in the US, can't find it in the rockauto parts catalog anyway).

I share your opinion on facebook (and social media in general), to tell you the truth, these days I revert to AI tools to find any information on the internet and filter out the 'sh!te'. I'm a software developer by trade and these tools are a necessity for me to keep up with my job, but my goodness, they're also _awesome_ when it comes to troubleshooting my cars! I'm currently restoring a Ford Mustang ('64) and a BMW Z1 ('90) as well and they've saved me many hours of digging through internet articles. You can give 'em photos, PDFs, website, have them order parts for you etc. The only thing you still have to do yourself is the fun part, getting dirty

Either way, thanks for reading the post!

Cheers
Nic.

[Jonny Jeep]

I forgot to ask if you had PDF versions of the FSM and parts lists. I'm trying to add them in case you don't, but firefox keeps crashing.

For non diesel parts for the WJ, and for the Mustang, checkout rockauto.com I've had loads of stuff from them over the years for my TJ. They have several brands available for most parts and a valid 5% discount code is pretty easy to find. Shipping options vary too, from around 10 working days to 2-3 working days depending how fast you need things. I've ordered on a Saturday afternoon and had by Tuesday morning. Some shipping options include prepaid VAT and duty, some don't, which could slow things down and add UK clearance costs.

I'll try adding those files again now.

[Jonny Jeep]

Dropbox link that will be dropped in a week or so... https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rak2u3mjsfmuixcdbfs8b/2002_WG_FSM-Includes-Diesel.zip? rlkey=8rf8ognv0k5bt89rwci1c1qcd&st=yeowis39&dl

[Jonny Jeep]

What a pain in the arse that was. Wouldn't post the reply from my laptop, so I took a pic of the screen and grabbed the text to post from my mobile, which it did instantly. That's technology for you.