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[Asylum]

Has anybody else had these type of problems and have an idea on a cause?

http://www.birtydastardsjeepclub.com/fo ... php?t=3669

After changing my brake pads I had done a couple of short trips and did not seem to have any problems. Then on the journey to Kirton had major problems. First I new was when my TJ decided to lunge to the left when I braked. then the brakes when spongy. Pulled into petrol station and could smell hot brakes. Touched the calipper and almost melted my hand. Poured cold water on it and was encased in a mass of steam. Brake discs were cooking big time. Knocked the unit with a hammer and let cool to free the wheel. Hoped it may have been something simple. Once cooled decided to push on and see if it happened again. It did, but both wheels seized. See link above for more details. I am confused as to what caused this and have changed pads before and never had this trouble! And I had no air locks in the braking system and they showed no sign of spongyness until they got HOT. Am guessing my callipers are fooked and the cause?

Hopeing someone can shed some light as if its something I have done wrong, Dont want to do it again as it will some become very expensive!

Thanks
Clayton

[daggie]

the pad carrier worn  :?

[Anonymous]

My TJ does it about once a year.... and nearly ALWAYS after fitting new pads.

I usually get / have some fine emery cloth.....

Hardest part is getting the caliper off the disk. I use a HUGE G clamp for it.

Now, FILL UP THE RESERVOIR. near to the top!

Then I get one of the kids to pump the brake pedal until the piston pops. (Have a bowl underneath, a lot of fluid can come out here!)

Now use a couple of bits of plastic or wood and a pair of mole grips to "Pinch" the brake pipe.

remove the outter seal from the caliper as you remove the piston. (I think it has a circlip on the outside edge so it won't just pull out! )

Now, check the inner seal. If there is corrosion around it, you'll need to carefully remove it. (or order a spare beforehand)

Now use the emerycloth to clean up any corrosion in there, making sure you clear out any crap in the groove for the seal. I normally give the outter area a good cleanup here too.

Now feel round the piston. it should be smooth... any lumps need to be VERY VERY carefully cleaned off. again, I use very fine sandpaper or emery cloth (Whichever I have which is finer at the time)

Use the bowl of brake fluid to clean it up afterwards

Now, replace the inner seal in the caliper, cover it in fresh brake fluid.

Undo the bleed nipple on the caliper.

Here I put a little fluid into the caliper before....

Carefully pushing the piston in after coating it in fresh brake fluid (helps it slide) MAKE SURE YOU KEEP IT SQUARE TO THE CALIPER

Now, it SHOULD slide straight in using your fingers. it may be a little tight. I use a smaller g clamp to push the piston past the resistance and then use fingers again.

Once the piston is RIGHT in, clean out any spare brake fluid, it only traps dirt in there! you should be able to put the outer seal back in... it's a bitch... patience is key here :twisted:

[Mike Pavelin]

Get 2 new piston and seal kits from lighthouse (about £20 a side i think) and fit them. Inspect where the pads slide on the steering knuckle brackets, they have probably worn notches which cause the pads to jam in them. Carefully grind just enough off to take the corners off these notches so the pads can slide on them properly.

[Asylum]

Daggie, EvilEd and Mike. You could all be life savers.

Many thanks, I am going to check all that out this afternoon and and am determined to get to cheapfest.

[MK1]

Single sided or sliding calipers are always shite. They cause endless troudle on ALL cars.

I take it you didn't make it to Kirton. I ran out of time yesterday so also had to give it a miss.

[Ian Houghton]

This happened on my Dads TJ, as the brake pads wear and the piston is further out, the dust cover might have a hole in it allowing water and dirt in, corroding the face of the piston.

When you fit new pads and push the piston all the way back it starts to stick on the seals causing the brake bind.

To stop this happening again after you have fitted new pistons and seals, put a little bit of brake fuild behind the dust seal, this should help to keep the exsposed part of the piston from corroding again.

It works for me anyway.

[Mike Pavelin]

You have to be careful with replacement discs on XJ and TJ. There are actually three different offsets available depending on the type of hub/disc combination fitted. Early XJs had hubs with rebuildable bearing, Then they went to unit bearings and had the most common composite disc fittted, then in '99/2000 they went to one pice discs with yet another offset. They will all fit on, but the variation of the position of the disc in relation to the caliper can cause binding of the brake as the disc is not positioned centrally in the range of travel designed into the caliper.