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Author Topic: Air Con compressor  (Read 5746 times)

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Bigmadgregor

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Air Con compressor
« on: December 04, 2007, 05:28:47 PM »

I got Kwik Fit to do a no fix no  fee check on my air con in the middle of the summer and they found a leak... no suprise on a 96 cherry.

their equipment couldn't say where it was but just that there was a leak.

I am assuming that the compressor is shot as there is no load detectable (revs don't increase on idle) when the air con is turned on.

Anybody ever attempted a repair on the air con, are the compressors expensive/difficult to replace?  is it actually worth doing? kinda just want to fix it cos i've got it...
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Bubba

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« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2007, 05:42:10 PM »

sounds like the aircon clutch is not working
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trucks


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I spent most of my money on alcohol, women and old  iron........ the rest of it I just wasted.

Dave69

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« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2007, 05:45:59 PM »

the aircon pump is a doddle to change as it is just under the pas pump, a couple of fiddly bolts but q simple job. if there is a leak the the gas wont be a problem, fitting the fan belt and taking it off is the hardest bit.

crack the bolts to the high and low pressure pipes first before removal of the rest as it then makes it easier than after the pump has been removed
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XJ 2.5 diesel - dead. XJ 4.0 6" lift - sold to some lucky person
CJ7 4.2 auto standard(ish)
Alfa 147 jtdm

mack

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Re: Air Con compressor
« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2007, 05:55:21 PM »

Quote from: "Bigmadgregor"
I am assuming that the compressor is shot as there is no load detectable (revs don't increase on idle) when the air con is turned on...


If there is no gas the compressor wont try to run.

You need to have the leak located then fixed and charged with new gas before you can test the compressor.

I may be able to help you out with this.
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Bigmadgregor

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« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2007, 06:30:23 PM »

feel free to be as much help as you want :o)
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Dave69

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« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2007, 10:32:40 PM »

the clutch has gone on mine in a big way so it dont work now. the downside is that it makes a god awfull rattle every now and then before it latches. not got round to replacing it as it's not realy needed at the moment. I believe lighthouse stock an idler bracket if it was removed
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XJ 2.5 diesel - dead. XJ 4.0 6" lift - sold to some lucky person
CJ7 4.2 auto standard(ish)
Alfa 147 jtdm

Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2007, 08:44:09 AM »

Yours is a diesel so the compressor is driven off the back of the PAS pump via a rubber flexi drive. The clutch is enclosed inside a drive plate and it is difficult to hear and impossible to see it operate. Find the A/C compressor relay in the box under the bonnet and pull it out. With the engine off short the two large contacts in the relay socket on and off and you should faintly hear the clutch click in and out. If you can, start the engine and do it again. If there are any horrible mechanical noises, the compressor or drive are shot.
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15mpg.wtf

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« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2007, 10:50:57 AM »

Try the low pressure switch on the drivers side inner wing.the aircon system has a failsafe device which shuts down the entire system(including the clutch)when there is no gas or a leak.i found that unscrewing the sensor off the top of the black pot,inside is a adjustable screw.turn this a few times with a screwdriver and connect it back up.when you turn on the aircon the clutch should kick in.mine did,so i just rememberer where the switch was set to in the first place and then fixed my leak.hope this helps :D
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Bigmadgregor

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« Reply #8 on: December 05, 2007, 11:10:39 AM »

Any tips for finding leaks once i get the compressor sorted out?  I've never worked on air con before... does the system need charged to find the leak or will i be able to find it with just air in the system...

Is the leak finding a soapy water effort?
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15mpg.wtf

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« Reply #9 on: December 05, 2007, 11:20:59 AM »

Quick fit should have told you that a red dye could be added to the gas to show where the leak is coming from.go to an aircon specialist and see what they say. :)
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Mike Pavelin

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« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2007, 03:16:46 PM »

There are many methods of leak detection.
The machine Kwik-fit use pulls the system into a deep vacuum once the refrigerant has been recovered. If the sytem does not hold the vacuum for 4 minutes, it fails the test. Kwik fit are not allowed to or trained to do diagnostic work (I know 'cos I trained a lot of them) so they will only tell you if it fails this test or if the system is empty to start with They are not allowed to do dye or any other testing.
A refrigerant sniffer detects leaking refrigerant once the system is charged. It will only detect refrigerant in close proximity to the probe so is only good for assessible areas.
UV dye is often added when recharging a system. This circulates throughout the system via the lubricant and will glow bright green under a UV light at the point of any leak. Obviously the system has to be working in the first place for this to be effective.
Nitrogen leak detection allows the tester to charge the system with a very high pressure charge of inert gas and then see if the system holds pressure. You need to check that the comprssor is electrically ok and that the system has sufficient pressure to operate first. If in doubt go to a local aircon specialist as there's no point going to one place to get a charge put in and then paying someone else for diagnosis.
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mack

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« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2007, 10:25:22 AM »

PM me, as I said I can help, I know 2 vehicle air con guys in Falkirk area, and I'm an air con engineer myself....

 :wink:
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