Topic: woo hoo (Read 8041 times)

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #25 on:** January 03, 2009, 11:04:00 AM »

So how long do you think it would take to do the job if everything went to plan 8-)

and why did you take the crownwheel out, did you have to remove a pin ?

Bubba · « **Reply #26 on:** January 03, 2009, 11:25:50 AM »

i take it he needed to remove the pusher/spacer block that sets the preload for the rh side shaft it is retained by the centre pin of the diff

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #27 on:** January 03, 2009, 11:46:57 AM »

Quote from: "V8 Bubba"

i take it he needed to remove the pusher/spacer block that sets the preload for the rh side shaft it is retained by the centre pin of the diff

Cheers dude, ill be doing mine soon :-)

Nosebolt · « **Reply #28 on:** January 03, 2009, 01:36:31 PM »

yea I made a stupid mistake, the new bearings for the one piece shafts are press fit on shaft and clearence in axle tube, the old bearings are the other way round, slide on shaft- press fit in tube, I wasn't thinking and used old bearing outer to drift in the spacer then couldnt get it out, thats why i took the ring gear out.

without stupid cockups job should have been no more than 6 hours, i did a few outher bits while i could too that has added some time.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #29 on:** January 03, 2009, 03:21:01 PM »

it drives

as I may have said before not happy with the front prop shaft, are there any major issues with running without the shaft in 2WD while i get it recond?

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #30 on:** January 03, 2009, 04:41:35 PM »

Quote from: "Nosebolt"

it drives :-)

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #31 on:** January 03, 2009, 04:43:13 PM »

Quote from: "Nosebolt"

it drives :-)
edit; dunno what happend there

Nosebolt · « **Reply #32 on:** January 03, 2009, 05:49:41 PM »

next question; is worth reconditioning the standard prop or get an after market jobby, I ask this bearig in mind the lift means the original prop is probably a bit over extended.

also is the u bolt conversion worth while? those pidily bits of bent tin holding the UJ in place do worry me

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #33 on:** January 03, 2009, 08:46:52 PM »

Right! where to start, if the angle of the transmission and the pinion are the same you wont get vibration and you wont wreck uj`s. If the pinion angle is more, one uj will run faster than the other(does that make sense)
this will vibrate and knacker uj`s.you may well be able to run the stock shaft depending on the amount of lift.
Cardan joints can be found on toyota hilux front drive shafts, so you may be able to get something made up for a fraction of the price just remember to get the cardan welded onto the transmission end of the rear drive shaft(i think)
This might help you decide :wink:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

greggmo · « **Reply #34 on:** January 03, 2009, 11:44:03 PM »

Quote from: "Nosebolt"

next question; is worth reconditioning the standard prop or get an after market jobby, I ask this bearig in mind the lift means the original prop is probably a bit over extended.

also is the u bolt conversion worth while? those pidily bits of bent tin holding the UJ in place do worry me

the u bolt style uj straps always seem a better idea to me and i am fairly sure fatso will say the same.

Bubba · « **Reply #35 on:** January 04, 2009, 12:09:28 PM »

clear off lard ya retard

yes the ubolt prop straps are far stronger than the later flat strip of metal strap

drive shafts are an interestin thing the front shaft an almost all 4x4s is longer than the rear one and hence runs at a much flatter angle than the rear in comparison and yet the front is often treated to a carden cv joint while the the rear is left as nature intended running open yokes and i for one have had more reason to look at repair nurse the front shaft not the rear

can somone explain why the rear rarly if ever contains a cv unless you have bought a tom woods explode a shaft on the after market

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #36 on:** January 04, 2009, 01:04:15 PM »

Dunno! good question, maybe its something to do with cost when manufactured or maybe they wear out quicker than uj`s, cause they are turning so fast on the rear axle, whereas when they are on the front they are in 4wd and turn slower , whadya reckon :-)

daggie · « **Reply #37 on:** January 04, 2009, 01:07:22 PM »

Quote from: "xr6jeeper"

Dunno! good question, maybe its something to do with cost when manufactured or maybe they wear out quicker than uj`s, cause they are turning so fast on the rear axle, whereas when they are on the front they are in 4wd and turn slower , whadya reckon :-)

Nosebolt · « **Reply #38 on:** January 04, 2009, 01:29:49 PM »

After reading the linked article from xr6, it seems I need UJ’s on the front, flanges are almost parallel, 1.5* difference, don’t think I can do anything to loose this last bit without rotating the tubes in the diff housing as it will affect the castor to much. UJ’s aren’t the problem with the front shaft it’s the slide, there is a load of side to side play.

The rear looks like a candidate for a CV, big angle at transfer box, almost straight at rear diff.

So next question is where to get front repaired and new rear fabricated?

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #39 on:** January 04, 2009, 08:36:30 PM »

Theres a guy on ebay breaking a cj7 is that any good

Nosebolt · « **Reply #40 on:** January 04, 2009, 08:43:06 PM »

was thinking new or at least new parts to refurb

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #41 on:** January 04, 2009, 08:43:43 PM »

Quote from: "Nosebolt"

After reading the linked article from xr6, it seems I need UJ’s on the front, flanges are almost parallel, 1.5* difference, don’t think I can do anything to loose this last bit without rotating the tubes in the diff housing as it will affect the castor to much. UJ’s aren’t the problem with the front shaft it’s the slide, there is a load of side to side play.

The rear looks like a candidate for a CV, big angle at transfer box, almost straight at rear diff.

So next question is where to get front repaired and new rear fabricated?

You can sort the front prop out but its a bit of farting about, you need to grind the welds of on the balljoint flange (carefully). then you can spin the front axle either with shims, or re mount the spring perches.
Then turn the balljoint flange to the desired castor you want and re weld.
Like i said its a lot of furking about but thats how its done. :-)

xr6jeeper · « **Reply #42 on:** January 04, 2009, 08:44:55 PM »

Quote from: "Nosebolt"

was thinking new or at least new parts to refurb

Andrew or julian at lighthouse jeeps in garboldisham, norfolk.

greggmo · « **Reply #43 on:** January 04, 2009, 09:33:48 PM »

IMS props in supliers. 8-)

Nosebolt · « **Reply #44 on:** January 04, 2009, 10:50:59 PM »

lighthouse brill for service kit but not had much luck with upgrades.

found IMS web site (not in suppliers :cry:

) will give em a call in the week.

wildwood · « **Reply #45 on:** January 05, 2009, 11:49:47 AM »

I used these guys http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/ local to me Cambs (St Neots).
They shortend an XJ prop for the rear to get the carden and I went with normal skinny prop for YJ front but 8" longer due to Klune and exhaust. For dynamic balance they recommend as wide a diameter as poss to avoid vibes.
I've got hubs on front so doesn't matter. Rear is perfect 4and half inch lift SYE and no vibes even at 80 (not often achieved)

I do have a front TJ prop (fat as a rear prop) has cardon on it could be retubed or shortened as has dent in tube. (Sitting in shed)

These guys do props the size of sewer pipes for trucks they are good, also do rally cars and are less money than Yankie stuff.
cheers Jez

Nosebolt · « **Reply #46 on:** January 08, 2009, 12:14:55 PM »

found a place in Bristol that will make me a custom pair of props :cry: but then again will probably take me that long to sort the pinion play :roll:

Nosebolt · « **Reply #47 on:** January 10, 2009, 09:41:50 PM »

Here we go again! :wink:

Rear not quite so easy was advised of some pinion play, didn’t expect as much play as I found considering it was all apart last week and I didn’t notice it then (not sure if I just missed it or if I caused it).
About 5 mm in-out and same up-down, not good. So rear axle is in bits for the second weekend running to find out what bits are needed, but will have to be back together and drivable on Sunday regardless, so fully expecting to do it all again next weekend after I get the parts. :roll:

As long as I have a drivable Jeep by the 27th when the Isuzu is SORN’d I’ll be happy

Bubba · « **Reply #48 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:28:59 PM »

pinion bearings +crush sleeve.........enjoy

Nosebolt · « **Reply #49 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:41:51 PM »

That’s what I am expecting, but not taking any chances this time so going to check the shaft and case before I order the parts

Author Topic: woo hoo (Read 8041 times)

xr6jeeper

xr6jeeper

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

xr6jeeper

xr6jeeper

Nosebolt

xr6jeeper

xr6jeeper

Nosebolt

xr6jeeper

Nosebolt

xr6jeeper

xr6jeeper

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

Nosebolt