Topic: TJ D44 (Read 5891 times)

Dodster · « **on:** January 16, 2009, 04:45:41 PM »

Well it looks like that fn sheep dip has had me again... :roll: although I cant get the cover off till i get some fresh oil and i need the TJ to get the oil [ the grand is off the road with a knacked water pump]
The end off the diff breather is caked in ribbo shit so i expect that there is a lot more got into the diff.

my questions are..

1. Is it likeley that the diff has gone completely or is there a chance that an oil change might save it?

2. If it is gone does that mean a complete rebuild and new truetrac?

I know its vague without being able to see inside the diff but any advice from here would be mucho appreciated.. 8-)

3. Oh yeah, there is about 2mm waggle on the rear wheels, [not in and out just up and down/side to side, I presume there shouldnt be any waggle at all...?

4. Oh yeah, can I drive it in 4wd just for short distances now ive taken the rear prop off..?

Thanks as always
Phil

JamesH · « **Reply #1 on:** January 16, 2009, 05:06:01 PM »

Phil

It sounds like the pinion bearing(s) and wheel bearings are worn, giving you the 'waggle'. I don't think oil will fix it but it might make it better and it needs doing anyway.

You shouldn't need a new truetrac unless you've really shagged something, ring and pinion should be ok but if they have to be setup again they may whine a bit more because they'll already have worn a pattern against each other.

I think you might be able to replace the bearings without a full gear setup but I'm not sure about that at all.

Having no rear prop you should be fine but I don't know what it'll be like to drive a front wheel drive jeep!!?

isle of man · « **Reply #2 on:** January 16, 2009, 05:13:43 PM »

http://http://birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8750

Bubba · « **Reply #3 on:** January 16, 2009, 06:16:44 PM »

if you do it before it gets worse you should get away with new pinion bearings carier bearings and wheel bearings if luck is with you might not need to set up the diff as the wear is in the bearings not the shims and replacing the bearings will restore the settings
re setting would not be to easy as now the teeth have been running meshed at a distorted angle you woul not be able to chase down the perfect contact pattern you would have to compromise onthe best pattern and yeah she may hum as she settles down

or get it done by an axle place.....front wheel drive make for interesting handeling

Dodster · « **Reply #4 on:** January 16, 2009, 08:48:32 PM »

Thanks for the info.. 8-)

I cant afford those axles Peter I did consider it tho..

So apart from the wheel bearings then will i probably need something like this..?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52440_105.htm

isle of man · « **Reply #5 on:** January 16, 2009, 08:56:21 PM »

Add all the parts up and the purchase of the axle does make commercial sense - and the plus is you have a spare.....bid him for them.

Dodster · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2009, 09:10:14 PM »

NOoooo.. I cant, I know you are right but i'm cleaned out after xmas and holidays.
I would also have to cough up for some Jewellery.. :wink:

Bubba · « **Reply #7 on:** January 16, 2009, 09:18:14 PM »

what for iom

isle of man · « **Reply #8 on:** January 16, 2009, 09:26:25 PM »

No - Mrs IOM has a system you see.....Think Buggy

PtP · « **Reply #9 on:** January 16, 2009, 09:44:46 PM »

Phil, I'm not sure if this is the reason your wheel bearings have some play in them, but I had a similar problem a while back.

Quote from: "PtP"

I’ve had a look today and the collar was pressed well on the half-shaft, but I discovered plenty of rust, mud and general crud between the axle end face and the back of the brake back plate. This crud was preventing the surfaces from mating cleanly together, thus allowing the extra end float. The surfaces were all cleaned off and coated in waxoyl. Once everything was reassembled the extra end float disappeared and I was just left with a very small amount end float which I think is acceptable.

http://birtydastardsjeepclub.com/forum/ ... ght=brakes

gazjeep · « **Reply #10 on:** January 16, 2009, 09:46:50 PM »

Think she has been giving tips to other womenfolk round here too, off to the jewellery quarter tomorrow after the trip to Bubbs'a to pick up some birthday rocks & they ain't for me :roll:

Dodster · « **Reply #11 on:** January 16, 2009, 10:04:56 PM »

TBH i'm not surprised about the wheel bearings they have had a tatering, so their time must be up..

Can I confirm a couple of things..

I need one of these..
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52440_105.htm

And.. the rolling torque for the pinion bearings is basically the amount of pre set friction [power it takes to turn the yoke] between the inner and outer bearings, set with the crush sleeve using an inch/pound torquey...

Thanks again... 8-)

Bubba · « **Reply #12 on:** January 16, 2009, 11:00:05 PM »

yup and you need wheel bearings n seals

Dodster · « **Reply #13 on:** January 16, 2009, 11:01:19 PM »

Thank you..

Asylum · « **Reply #14 on:** January 17, 2009, 12:10:54 AM »

The rolling torque feels suprisingly tighter than you would think it should be. When doing my D30, warthog and I were swinging on a 3/4 inch torque wrench to crush the sleeve and reach the rolling resistance torque.

With the devalutaion of the pound you may be better getting your seals/bearings etc from lighthouse mate, or your local bearing place. I know my local bearing place can get pretty much any bearing, Timken and others I had never heard of that were way more expensive!

When we removed my diff to change the pionion bearings it did not require a complete setup. I made sure I measured the bearings before replacement though with a micrometer (OK warthog did because he is anal about those types of things

Nosebolt · « **Reply #15 on:** January 17, 2009, 12:54:31 AM »

Quote from: "Asylum"

With the devalutaion of the pound you may be better getting your seals/bearings etc from lighthouse mate,

gota disagree m8, priced up bearings crush spacer and seal from lighthouse, came to 75 quid inc post, got all above plus shims and pinion nut from US for 72 pounds in postage.

http://stores.ebay.com/Bills-Ford-Jeep-Dodge-Parts

Nexus · « **Reply #16 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:44:23 AM »

Not sure how old your D44 is but mine does not have crush sleeve, but requires shims behind the bearing cup to set the pinion depth.

Cheers
Nick

Bubba · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:46:42 AM »

thats cos his ia amc 20 not a 44 so things are not identical

Nexus · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2009, 09:41:18 AM »

Sorry bout that got confused, think it was the alcohol last night.

Cheers
Nick

Dodster · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2009, 02:40:54 PM »

Thansk for the info Clayt/ Nosebolt I will price it all up..

Now I'm a bit confused, I have a D44 right.. :-D

Bubba · « **Reply #20 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:14:51 PM »

yup that was what i was tryin to say

wazza · « **Reply #21 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:15:04 PM »

a dana 44 has shims to set the bearing pre-load, i think its 15ish inch pounds is what you set it at, you can either guess or buy the proper torque wrench/guage for 200quid :-?

its a dana 30 an 35 that have the crush sleve.

Bubba · « **Reply #22 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:16:02 PM »

did you ever have to get ya tranny rebuilt or was it took out just for the vent mod

Nosebolt · « **Reply #23 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:26:23 PM »

Yea mine is same job on a different axle.

Point was even with the weak pound, import is still an option, chances are the UK supplier has imported from US anyway so they have paid more as well.

wazza · « **Reply #24 on:** January 17, 2009, 08:39:22 PM »

give FTE a call, he does the full bearing kits, at a reasonable price i think.(cheaper than lighthouse)

Author Topic: TJ D44 (Read 5891 times)

Dodster

Dodster

Dodster

Dodster

Dodster

Nosebolt

Nexus

Nexus

Dodster

wazza

Nosebolt

wazza