Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: wildwood on June 12, 2015, 07:01:54 PM
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Having missed IOMs sale of tyres and beadlocks 2 years ago due to funds.....and like stuff.and still having a one legged ass kicking session over this ....
I am now on the hunt for some 17" x 9 or 9.5 with a Chevy friendly 8 on 6.5pci.....
Allied in the U.S. Seem to be the affordable......(just like IOM's :010:) all the. Rest like Hutchinson and trail ready are for the sponsored boys.....IE spendy......
No one seems to do them over here.....some dubious Lardrover stuff but wrong PCI.....
Anyone got 4 for my 40's??
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Look at staz, have them on the buggy, they are foooookin ACE !!
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Jez have you thought about having some rings made for your existing wheels? And welding them on yourself, I've done a few sets over the years, I have a contact that can make them for you. The last set I had made (last year) and not silly money, alloy or steel is doable.
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Nice one. Thought of this until!
I looked into weld on for the H2 Hummer rims I run and interweb twittering paints a bad pic of cracks and twisting and threads pulling through........
Doing with steel would be Ok if I had a set of 17s mig welding is so much easier than tig
Or it is if you haven't tig welded in 18 months :hysterical:
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Have you considered sonething like Staun bead lock?
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Have you considered sonething like Staun bead lock?
Please don't, even the version two are hard work....
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Had a mate with Stauns...... 'Coyote Chris' previous owner of Cockney Boys truck....
They were a disaster..... He managed to rip the rigid valve stems off 2 of them at Tong on the rocks and in the mud.......
All those around at the time have steered clear of them since then.....l
On paper they seem like answer to a maidens prayer........in life ......nooooooo :jpshakehead:
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Have no experience of them just seem like a good idea
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8lug wheels seem hard to find
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Non existent here,im thinking of modifying mine when the time comes,standard 8lug 16.5 as is
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Greatlakesoffroad in the US do affordable weld on beadlocks about £200 by the time they get here.
All you need is some steel wheels .....which I don't have......
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http://www.northhantstyres.com/main-wheel-page-first-page/wheel-vintiques/wheel-vintiques-8-lug.html
have a look here mate put a set on his chevy they look good
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Got excited there for a min.......
No 17" ones that I can see?
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Got excited there for a min.......
No 17" ones that I can see?
http://www.northhantstyres.com/main%20wheel%20pages/cragar-wheels/cragar-342-black-d-window.htm
near bottom of list
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Thanks...nice one...
So £118 per wheel and £200 for weld on beadlocks
That makes it 1/2 the price of shipping in allied beadlocks at £320 each delivered and duty paid...
I think I see light at the end of the tunnel and for once it's not an oncoming train :icon_super:
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I am going to get some land rover 17x9's from tyresdirect and weld in the correct wheel centre, they only cost £52 a wheel and the centres are only about £5 a wheel, I also made some bead locks for my 15" so will do the same for the 17" ones, should all come in at less than £300 with a bit of welding and some paint.
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Do tyres direct do 17x9 with a 8 on 6.5 PCI?
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No they do them with 5 on 6.5, i'm just going to change the pcd with some plates, cost about £5 each.
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Do you have a link for purchase of the centres .....seems I'll be going this way as well.
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I got them laser cut, i'll send you some.
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Excellent.....PM me the Jaffa cake details when ready.
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Want some 17" beadlocks aswell? It'll be about £100 for them.
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That'll do nicely yes please.
Technical ish question do you have coneing problems with the beadlocks when tightened down?
Keep reading about that....
Also are the hub centres with lug nut holes shaped for the 'acorn nut'? And do you have to cut the centre of the wheel out.....?
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I stop the coning with some m10x 10 capheads screwed into the inner ring with a washer, these are on about a 50mm smaller pcd than the clamp bolts, these stand up about 12mm from the inner disc, the outer disc then bolts down tight to these on the inside and the tyre on the outside keeping it all flat. The disc for the wheel centre will need some 60 degree countersinks put in it to take a standard steel wheel nut. I'll be cutting my centres out and welding the new ones in. But i guess you could just weld them to the current centre and drill through the wheel. Not sure i like that idea or not though.
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Great that all makes sense....
Cutting out centre would be my choice....
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I'll probably tack the new centre on the back of the rim then cut the centre out from the front, then seam weld it on, this should keep it all flat and central.
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(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F06%2F21%2F0e0316235ba629e9c635d4c11f920703.jpg&hash=5e082b6f7517911d002351bf9358c850d5343540)
This shows what i mean about the caphead bolts acting as anti conning.
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best idea I've seen is to use rim from another wheel,cut short of your tyre bead depth and get outer locking ring cut to ID of rim ring ,you'd have to sacrifice 2 rims but it's much stronger and studs/bolts etc are a little more protected ..have pics somewhere but similar to Mach rim
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I did think about doing it like that but the only reason I could see for doing it is the fact the outer ring will have the profiled section of the wheel rim on the inside. I decided against it and just ran a flap wheel round the inside outer edge of the outer disc to round it off a little. This seemed to work as I removed the tyres after a couple of thousand miles and put them back on normal rims with no issues at all.
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But hard to explain but no using the outer lip actually gives you a stepped profiled outer ring when complete ,you would cut just a little less than the dept of the tyre bead from the rim and weld ring on there
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Not a great pic but this wheel was done as above
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Ah i see you weld the bit of cut off rim to the outside of the outer beadlock ring, then bolt the outer and inner tight together?
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That's it,you'd have to leave space for clamping but that's the idea
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If you cut the outer edges off the wheel at the correct thickness you could just bolt the two plates tight together. The downside of this is the fact the rim is then the widest part and is also the weakest so any impact with rocks etc is born by the thin rim section that may bend. The way I've done it the bolt heads are the outer most part and they are easily replaceable. The down side to the way I've done it is the gap between the rings fills up with crap and takes ages to clean out. There may be a way co combine the best of both. I'll have a look into it as my rims should be here today.
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I've seen ppl use a fan belt to stop coning and dirt on flat bead lock rings,seems like a good idea,get a belt the right Dia turn inside out if you have enough lip inside
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Yes that would work for sure. I do like the idea of just bolting it up tight plate to p!ate. No need for nylock nuts then, just tap the inner ring M10 and then torque the bolts up. I'm seriously keen on this now.
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(https://birtydastards.com/frm/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F07%2F08%2Faf72a8da7d27cdd9d44cfcc2f394af39.jpg&hash=de1f63a5d063ea9db6e1f0c28d510f96df12e2f3)
I got the pcd conversion discs, i'll have a go at welding them on this week. Then go about cutting out the old wheel centre.
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