Topic: Winch Wiring (Read 6579 times)

Nexus · « **on:** September 12, 2009, 10:23:48 AM »

Does the earth lead on a winch run all the way back to the battery or does it earth to the chassis?

Cheers
Nick

Bishops Finger · « **Reply #1 on:** September 12, 2009, 10:38:30 AM »

Chassis IIRC

Bubba · « **Reply #2 on:** September 12, 2009, 10:45:47 AM »

the best is back to the battery but i do both

sprintagogo · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:22:27 AM »

BATTERY, BATTERY, BATTERY!

Did I mention, it should always go direct to the battery? I don't know about the whole Jeep range but the Cherokee battery to chassis earth strap is pityfully small and would melt like a fuse if a serious winch load was applied across it. Seriously, most forums even recommend upgrading the battery/alternator wiring even if you just bolt on a few spotlights or a high power ICE system so it definitely isn't suitable to ground a winch.

isle of man · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2009, 02:14:06 PM »

Best to go the Battery - also I believe they now use welding lance cabe!!!!

Nexus · « **Reply #5 on:** September 12, 2009, 03:09:26 PM »

Thanks, I wanted to know to work out how much cable I was going to need.

Cheers
Nick

Dave69 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 12, 2009, 06:59:01 PM »

heavy duty jump start cables are the minimum. otherwise thin cables will heat and melt under high load

Panic mechanic! · « **Reply #7 on:** September 12, 2009, 09:17:40 PM »

find a commercial parts dealer /electrician and ask them for an anderson lead, or the cable the use to make one.(even an old one would be good as its the fittings that fail on the trucks normally.

Warthog · « **Reply #8 on:** September 12, 2009, 09:35:08 PM »

Negative to the battery is best. 35 or 50mm Welding cable is common. Will need a big crimper though. Ebay have a few suppliers or local welding supplier.

Are you installing an isolator/kill switch?

Nexus · « **Reply #9 on:** September 12, 2009, 09:49:50 PM »

Was planning to install a kill switch, just not sure were I am going to put it at the moment.

Cheers
Nick

PtP · « **Reply #10 on:** September 12, 2009, 10:40:58 PM »

Here are a few random pictures I took whilst installing my winch.

Nexus · « **Reply #11 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:17:58 PM »

Thanks Peter, I am in the process of fabricating the winch/bumper bit at the moment but need to order the winch in the week to ensure everything fits and then weld up the fairlead mounting. Might try and get the isolator somewhere near were yours is as well. I am taking plenty of photo's so will post some images when the build is done.

Warthog looking at welding cable it is definetely cheaper than the cable that the winch suppliers are selling, the 35mm looks likely the winch at full load can pull nearly 320amps and 35mm only appears rated at at 290amp 60% duty cycle is this okay as I cannot see the winch running at it maximum power that much. The winch in question will probably be a goodwinch TDS 9.5C at 9500lbs.

Cheers
Nick

Warthog · « **Reply #12 on:** September 12, 2009, 11:52:08 PM »

On my rear winch, The cable from motor to solenoid pack is 25mm and the rest 35mm back to Battery. Have never had any problems. The other winches are all wired up with 35mm no problems.

If you were going for winch challenges, then i would say 50mm. Its starts to get a little awkward to run 50mm and above. Also the terminals are ruddy expensive, along with the solder to fill'em. 35mm vs 50mm comes down to if you wanna pay the extra, but not neccessary IMHO.

Something i would consider is an external isolator switch, near to the winch itself. So if something goes belly up (solenoid welds itself closed, winch draggin some it'lle Zuki into your truck scenario) you can hit the panic button quickly.

Dont think you can go wrong with superwinch.

Hope that helps

Are gonna be running 2 batteries?

Lornaben · « **Reply #13 on:** September 13, 2009, 12:12:30 AM »

Just to add, the isolator Pete's using is only rated at 250 Amps. After witnessing a winch solenoid welding itself closed and continuing to run using one of these isolators which also welded itself closed, I decided I'd fit a heavier duty Isolator to mine.

Its rated at 600 Amps, so is well up to anything you can throw at it.

[attachment=1]

Nexus · « **Reply #14 on:** September 13, 2009, 12:26:37 AM »

Lornaben, can you remember were you go the isolator from.

Cheers
Nick

Lornaben · « **Reply #15 on:** September 13, 2009, 12:35:36 AM »

Got mine from LSUK but they've gone bust locally

This company lists them but I've never dealt with them.

Part Ref 60550

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battisol.php

sprintagogo · « **Reply #16 on:** September 13, 2009, 01:03:36 AM »

I was about to mention vehicle wiring products as I have dealt with them and they do all the wire ranges in lengths cut to order so whether you are fitting spotlights or a winch you only have to buy the cable you need. They also do a huge range of switches and terminals and when I had to return a faulty switch recently they dealt with it quickly under warranty.

Bubba · « **Reply #17 on:** September 13, 2009, 08:45:31 AM »

buy good isolators i find they fail easy

PtP · « **Reply #18 on:** September 13, 2009, 07:10:57 PM »

Quote from: Lornaben on September 13, 2009, 12:12:30 AM

........ the isolator Pete's using is only rated at 250 Amps. After witnessing a winch solenoid welding itself closed and continuing to run using one of these isolators which also welded itself closed............

It was supplied by Champion/Winch Solutions, the people who supplied the winch. Whilst I've not had any problems, should I swap it for a bigger one?

Lornaben · « **Reply #19 on:** September 13, 2009, 08:51:48 PM »

Pete, the switch you have is rated at 250 Amps constant load and will take about 500 Amps for 5 second bursts (according to the specs I can find). This is for normal vehicle electrics, ie The big load is the starting cycle, 300-350 Amps for a few seconds and then 75 (ish) amps for normal running.

Your winch at max load will pull about 300 Amps (Warn 9.5xp pulls 480). This is a constant load and is greater than the rating of the isolator.

As the contact wears the likely hood of the switch welding itself closed becomes a real risk.

A friend had this happen to him a few years ago, the isolator had stuck/welded itself closed but it went unnoticed until a solenoid on the winch stuck closed, he turned the isolator key .... but nowt happened, the winch carried on winding in. Fortunately a bash with the wander lead unstuck the solenoid.

That's why I fitted the 600 Amp version (will take 2500 Amps for 5 secs) so in theory it should never fail to disconnect when I turn the key.

Warthog · « **Reply #20 on:** September 13, 2009, 09:46:56 PM »

Quote from: PtP on September 13, 2009, 07:10:57 PM

Quote from: Lornaben on September 13, 2009, 12:12:30 AM
........ the isolator Pete's using is only rated at 250 Amps. After witnessing a winch solenoid welding itself closed and continuing to run using one of these isolators which also welded itself closed............
It was supplied by Champion/Winch Solutions, the people who supplied the winch. Whilst I've not had any problems, should I swap it for a bigger one?

I have been running one of the 250amp rated for years.................But at CheapFest this year, it gave up the ghost and melted

As been said previous, the HD Version would be a wise choice.

Nexus · « **Reply #21 on:** September 13, 2009, 10:20:55 PM »

Lornaben, the isolator on the link above has a 250A @ 24v rating, does not mean this switch still only has a contact rating of 250 amps at 12 volts as the voltage rating is the value up to which the contact is capable of supressing the voltage or am I miss understanding something?

cheers
Nick

Warthog · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2009, 10:33:30 PM »

Visually the islolator Lornaben has mentioned internals are much more heavy duty than the smaller isolator switch.

Im not great at electrickery, so to answer you "Q" technically! Hopefully a grown up will come along

Lornaben · « **Reply #23 on:** September 13, 2009, 10:35:19 PM »

Looks like they may have changed the spec slightly, mine was rated 600 Amp when I bought it.

Using the spec listed on the site,

250 Amps @ 24V = 6000 Watts

This means when converted to 12V you get the rating below

6000 watts @12V = 500Amps

Lornaben · « **Reply #24 on:** September 13, 2009, 10:41:28 PM »

This may be useful,

To find Amps, Divide Watts by Volts. 100 Watt lamp @ 12 Volts = 8.3 Amps

To find Watts, Multiply Amps by Volts. 8.3 Amps @ 12 Volts = 99.6 Watts

To Get Volts, Divide Watts by Amps. 100 Watts @ 8.3 Amps = 12 Volts

Author Topic: Winch Wiring (Read 6579 times)

Nexus

Bishops Finger

sprintagogo

Nexus

Panic mechanic!

Nexus

Nexus

Nexus

sprintagogo

Nexus