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[wildwood]

Matt black is the way ahead my friend 
[/quote]

Not highjacking...... BUT went to halfrauds to get 1 can of primer and 1 can of satin black... £14 fecking quid. glad thay were the last 2 cans...
Anyway e-blag to the rescue http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Paint-Cellulose-SATIN-BLACK-FINNISH-SPECIAL-OFFER_W0QQitemZ390034257049QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item5acfda7499#ht_987wt_941
I need loads for the winch mount and the rear bumper/winch and all the chassis that looks a bit unloved

[Alucardtnuoc]

the tag with the no is the engene build code tels you of undersize or oversize bearings

Hey Bubba,

Found out what the tag on the rocker cover is....... 111N10

1 = Year, in this case 1977
11 = Day of the month engine finished
N = Check digit, same as in the VIN, tells what type of motor it is, in this case a 360
10 = Month engine built in

So basically the engine was built 13 months before the chassis..... how strange....

[Alucardtnuoc]

I'd suggest removing the fuel tank as a precaution, then attack all the mount bolts with determined ferocity.
Application of angle grinder or cutting torch to remove bolt heads/washers then direct heat from a propane torch/cutting torch to free seized on spacer tubes and blow away the rubber cushions.
Best done out in the open with a fan blowing the smoke away from ya, expect the bolts to be utter pigs and the captive nuts to spin in their housings, BFBI will win through, then you just need a hi-lift and some beams and stands to jack up the body until the rolling chassis will roll out from under.
 

Good call.... except only 2 of the captive nuts broke free..... application of grinder in progress. There is an amazing amount of 15 year old dried mud everywhere.....  Going to have to re-think the chassis twirler idea as the back mountings do not look all that strong. May need to join the 2 together......

[ferretjuggler]

Hmmmmm..............
I don't want to put a downer on folk doing their own shot/grit blasting, but a guy I know was using dried kiln sand for blasting bits.
When I told the guy who does my shotblasting jobs, his eyes nearly popped out.
Apparently using certain types of medium (like sand) is a no no as there is a very high risk of contracting lung diseases like emphysema and silicosis from the dust.
Having said that the guy using the kiln sand was 49 with chronic bronchitis and the lung capacity of a 84 year old.
And he still smokes.
Nowt as stange as folk

[Alucardtnuoc]

I have a full face respirator for just such jobs..... they use them in sawmills where they cut alot of MDF. Nothing like beathing comressor air....  

Ancient Dirt anyone? [attachment=1][attachment=2]

[ferretjuggler]

Just noticed the VIN decoder:- T150 three speed manual, Dana20 T/C
I never seen that in a FSJ in this country before

Usually  auto/quadratrac (upto '79) on Cherokees/Waggys, Pickups split 50/50 between autos or HD 4speed T18 with 8 lug 1 ton axles.

I'd be interested to find out what axles you got and what ratios ( I'd suspect Dana44's on 4.09:1)

Also I'd be interested to know how long the bellhousing is on that T150 box.
I bet it's not the ultra short jobbie fitted to the CJ5/7

[Alucardtnuoc]

It was bought in the US by a dude on walkabout. He liked it so much he imported it here. not sure about the axles etc, once i get all the crud off them maybe I will find a tag.

I am planning to either put in an AX15 5-speed or a T56 5-speed. The AX15 should be a straight swap, the T56 I am going to have a look at this wekend to take some measurements.

Dial Bore Guage and Haynes manual should be arriving today, so can start measuring up the bits to go for machining. Still waiting for prices on getting the Torque Plate made up...... I believe they are a must when boring and honing the AMC blocks......

Anyone running a V8 with the Edelbrock Air Gap Manifolds and Carburetion? I am trying to make informed decisions before purchasing upgrades, but struggling because I like shiney bits..... 

On a plus side, I will have an Edelbrock SP2-P manifold and a matching 4 barrel carb on offer.... pic attached.
Story on the Manifold..... It has small runners that increase the charge velocity at low RPM, makes heaps of power, just runs out of breath at about 3500RPM.

[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3][attachment=4]

I have been smoothing the ports out on the heads..... cast iron sure is a pig to work with, especially after doing so many aluminium ones...... but I am reall please with the results so far.

Anyone done any head work on the cast heads before? The seats are 30 degrees. I think I am going to leave the intake seats at 30, and grind the exhaust ones to 45. I figure at low lift the 30 deg seat on the intakes flow more air that 45 degree seats would. Any ideas anyone? 

Also about to lift the body off, just got to get the gearknob off the gearbox. Seems like I have to take the entire top off the box just to slip the lever out.... odd. Any suggestions here would be welcome too.

Has anyone ever bouth stuff from BJ's Offroad? There are some bits I could do with.... just wondering.....

[ferretjuggler]

From reading many IFSJA posts is that an AX15 will not hold up for long behind even a STD 360 let alone a tuned one.
Some place in the U.S. does a HD AX15 that is rated to stand up to a V8, but apparently, it wont, not off road anyway

Aisin/Warner AW4 auto box is a popular conversion as it is dirt cheap everywhere (std XJ auto box) has overdrive 4th gear and although not as strong as the mega-muscle TH400 or A727 it will stand upto our sort of lowly 300bhp all day.
Also I believe you can graft it onto a Dana300 transfer case with basic tools (you certainly can with an AX15) and don't need an expensive fitting kit.

[Alucardtnuoc]

OK, I just thought the AX15 was the beat to go for as reading this http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm

I am dead set against an auto box, I just do not think for offroading they are up to much... I have a TH400 off a Waggy, and would you believe it, from a jaguar XJS which is snap, just need to take the back plate off and stick on your transfer box....

I think I have a Dana 20, will check when I get home. Are there tags somewhere on the axles to identify them??

[Panic mechanic!]

why are you so set about not using an auto? most rock crawlers use them as they are a lot less damaging to the driveline.and you save a lot on burning clutch plates out.....

[Nosebolt]

this will help identify your axles

and I agree with Tina, so far only had manuals for off roading but next project is an auto

[Alucardtnuoc]

[attachment=1]

Appears to be a T15....

With Dana ?? Axles with ratios?

[attachment=2]

[ferretjuggler]

OK, I just thought the AX15 was the beat to go for as reading this http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm

Hmmmmmm..............
Novak certainly seem to have had a change of heart about the AX15, they were rubbishing them as being unsuitable for V8's a couple of years back.
Word is they are fragile to shock loads, no matter whos parts you stuff in them, so will stand up to roadwork OK, but likely go bang off road.
Tremec T176/7 seem to do OK, but only 4 speeds, basically, if it aint got an iron case, yanks will treat it with suspicion anyway


Another thing with novak, they are always pushing Chevy engines over AMC, but then you dont need an expensive conversion kit to fit an AMC V8 to a CJ do you
You dont need novaks conversion kit to fit the dana 300 either, unless you need to clock it, all you need is some tools and an angle grinder

[isle of man]

What about a SM465?

[Alucardtnuoc]

Right, on with the show. After reading about Chief Baz's misfortune with his windscreen, I decided to get removing mine out the way, so IF i broke mine too, we could maybe pool together and get them from the same supplier... (maybe qty discount???)

Anyhow, a couple of simple steps, and out she popped.....
For future reference here is what I did.....

1) Remove the Stainless dress up surround..... about now you will notice that the rubber seal on the outside seems to be split all the way around....
2) Pull up the OUTER edge of the OUTSIDE of the rubber seal around the entire windscreen (see photo)
[attachment=1]
3) Using something thin with a point ( I used a nailfile... not mine as you can see by the fingernails....   ), on the inside of the windscreen insert the nailfile around the whole windscreen ( see photos )
[attachment=2][attachment=3]
This breaks the sealing strip holding the windscreen to the rubber.
4) Gentle pressure on the inside around the whole screen breaks any remaining sealer.
5) starting in the corner at the bottom, apply firm and EVEN pressure from the inside. Do not bang or force it. I did this by lying on my back on the floor of the jeep and pushing with my bare foot. Once the corner starts to pop out, move to the other lower corner and do the same.
Make sure you either have the wipers still attached, or have someone outside to make sure it does not get away.
6) Once the bottom is totally clear of the rubber, gently pull the top out by grabbing the screen and wiggling it downwards.
7) Wonder how the hell you are going to get that sucker back in when the time comes.

[attachment=4]

Hope this may help someone in the future!

[Mike Pavelin]

An NV3500 from a late Cherokee diesel or TJ 4.0 will take anything you can throw at it.

[Alucardtnuoc]

All very do-able suggestions.... thanks. So how do I choose? Any more suggestions to confuzle me anymore?

Couple of pictures of the workshop..... there is some somewhere but I cannot find the thread....

[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]

And any thoughts on my rim choice??? 

[attachment=4]

Going to lift the body off tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[Bubba]

auto every time

[gazjeep]

Well out of my depth on some of these issues if not all but thoroughly enjoying the thread, keep it comming Vlad 

[Bulldog67]

auto every time

  changing gear is THE NO1 most overated motoring experience

[Bubba]

 

[Dutch]

Well out of my depth on some of these issues if not all but thoroughly enjoying the thread, keep it comming Vlad 

Yep !! What he said. 

[Alucardtnuoc]

Door catch pictures....

[attachment=1][attachment=2]

[wildwood]

What about a SM465?

Bullet proof and easy and cheap to find (In US)
nest generation for the SM420 that had 7.0 some'at for 1st gear again bullet proof but not as many. Made from '47-'65 so no synchro on 1st
 They both bolt to a SBC but its hello novak otherwise

[Alucardtnuoc]

The Body is OFF! WooHoo!!! 

A couple of piccys of how it was done.....

[attachment=1][attachment=2]