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[Nosebolt]

some may remember we managed to rip off the tow bar at the breakout while trying to recover Dan from a mud pit, finally got around to prepping the back end ready for the recovery bumper we are making for it. the old tow bar is off and i started to trim what i thought was two small patched of rot in the rear crossmember. as it turns out the rot is quite local on the crossmember but it extends back 3" into the chassis legs, so basically the rear spring hangers are holding onto a small bit of metal surrounded by air

we were going to make the recovery bumper from 2"x4" U beam, plan is now to use the same but to replace the crossmember with it. we will add leg extentions to the back that will sleeve the rear chassis legs and the spring hangers will bolt to the bumper/crossmember.

did have one idea that i would like opinions on, was thinking that i could lower the spring hanger mount by a few inches to compensate for the renowned jeep sagging ass syndrome, can anyone see any draw back to this?

[Bulldog67]

 

[Nosebolt]

 your insight is astounding 

[wildwood]

This is a mod for YJs as well but for them the rear spring hanger (chassis shackle eye) is thro the chassis rail so plating/sleeving the rotten chassis and putting shackle mount under chassis will give 3" difference or 1and half" lift.....

Not sure what difference on CJ would be but only thought is that if you combine chassis eye shackle  position built to be lower with slightly longer shackle you will get lift. which is good.......

Only negative will be diff/prop angles which can be sorted by wedges or for moolar with Double cardan CV shaft.

[Nosebolt]

not really looking for a lift more a leveling, need to keep this one as standard as possible so Dan can insure it if he ever gets a job , well it is his car.

in reality looking at taking the hanger mount level with the bottom of the 2"x4' so effectivly only a 2" drop (about a 1" lift), was more concirned with the linier position, do i need to move it forward or am i just overthinking this?

[Bubba]

yeah it will work should not hurt the prop as it will decrease the angle if you go to mad with the drop it will look a bit hokey

[Bulldog67]

 your insight is astounding  

give me time to think dood, one day ....................  

[wildwood]

Just measure fixed eye (of spring ) to shackle eye (that your replacing, not the lower end of the shackle) and replicate eye to eye measurement, that way you won't be stretching the spring (less lift) or shortening the spring to give more arch and more lift.

Just found some 2 and 1/2 degree wedges in my junk....haven't used them since 2002..... 

Shout if ya need 'em they're ally so cheap to mail 

[Nosebolt]

Just measure fixed eye (of spring ) to shackle eye (that your replacing, not the lower end of the shackle) and replicate eye to eye measurement, that way you won't be stretching the spring (less lift) or shortening the spring to give more arch and more lift.

Just found some 2 and 1/2 degree wedges in my junk....haven't used them since 2002..... 

Shout if ya need 'em they're ally so cheap to mail 

nice one m8 will bear that it mind

[Bubba]

if he dont have them could i have second dibs for a project

[Dave The Sparky]

if he dont have them could i have second dibs for a project

Theres three possibilities here
1:hes going to hoard them
2:hes going to use them to wedge his garage doors open
3:he needs some new shoe horns

Maybe all three 

[Bubba]

nope i hope to breed them

[wildwood]

if he dont have them could i have second dibs for a project

Oh yes.... sure..... and I've also got some shiny transfer case drop things from a procomp kit that I've never used and forgotten I've got.

and then when in Dec I do the stretchy YJ trick ......... well... if it ever happens..... there'll be loads of junk.....to go...... axles transfer case 300 flip over... NV3500 etc etc.......

Now we're panting........ and I'm wondering why I wanted to go large all of a sudden......

[Dave The Sparky]

Think i have some wedges somewhere as well bubba, both narrow for the early cjs and wide ones for the later ones.
Let me know if you want them, i didnt need to fit them to my cj6 with the 2.5 inch lift due to it having the long wheelbase and its unlikely im ever going to use them.
I think j33pky has some fitted on his cj5 though, due to its stumpy girly prop

[momos]

mmmm a pet wedge?   

[Nosebolt]

done the strip down today, now fully assesed the rot and not as bad as first thought.

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[wildwood]

Just a thought how ya going to repair it?

Been having this dilemma with the YJ.... researching stock for the extension at each end......?
........And the rectangular box section is??!!......... 4" x 2.5" or 102mm x 64mm
All I can seem to get is 100mm x 60mm (the only similarity is the box thickness 3.5mm which is available and the same as the original YJ)
Its doable and, with  fishmouth reinforcemant plates  it will look OK but ...pain......

Maybe the CJ is available UK size? Hope so

[Nosebolt]

its a case of using what i have, had some 2" bore box with 3mm wall that just slides into the existing leg. when that's in place I will probably metal glue some diamond shaped plate at the intersections then got some 2"x4" U section with about 5mm wall which will get welded onto the new legs as a crossmember with a few gussets just for that extra bit of overkill. then I'll add some mounting plates for the rear spring hangers from whatever i can find in the machine shop but hopfully thick enough that I can tap it for the hanger bolts.

[isle of man]

Stretch it!!!!

[Dave69]

"not as bad as first thought"

is that a bit of sarcasm.

tis a shame you can't slide a full piece into the last leg and be done with. would it be better running a full section of plate to the top of the over axle  bend either side. might give a bit more confidence for the rear hanger strength

[Nosebolt]

Stretch it!!!!

begone evil spirit.. like i said this one has to stay looking standard to Dan can get insurance if needed

[Nosebolt]

"not as bad as first thought"

is that a bit of sarcasm.

tis a shame you can't slide a full piece into the last leg and be done with. would it be better running a full section of plate to the top of the over axle  bend either side. might give a bit more confidence for the rear hanger strength

you trying to take my crown as king of overkill

top on both sides is good and worst bit only goes in at the side just past the first sleeved hole so recon what is planned will be strong enough, besides don't have time to lift the body so trying to plan it with all top welds as accessable as possible

[Dave69]

just saves doing it again later

[Nosebolt]

most of the cutting and welding done now, just waiting for m8 to pop round with his BIG welder to run a few beads where it counts. found a spare set off poly bushes in the shed and new shackle bolts so will be fitting those.

after last welds will get the paint out and its almost job done (will need to refit petrol tank)

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[Dave69]

just the tango special to fix now then