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[ridgeracer]

Hi chaps I have a question I would like to ask re my Jeep Cherokee.  To put you all in the picture I have had a few Cherokees over the years and found them to be a great vehicle.  I don’t do much off road stuff but that is something I want to have a go at later, although I am not looking for anything too extreme.  My main use for this Jeep is in the winter snow and ice as my other cars are crap and I live on a hill and work on a hill so a jeep is just the job. 

Last year I bought a 4.0 Cherokee first reg 11/01/02 this jeep was bought cheap (£900) and body wise at least it’s great. We have steamed cleaned the entire underside and there is not one spot of rust anywhere at all.  Mechanically however its not so great, when I got it the front prop had been removed but at the price I paid I thought no worries.  I got a used prop and set to trying out the 4x4 bit.  Well all I can say is that I have never ever heard such a noise from the transfer box it was terrible furthermore it does not like to come out of 4 wheel drive one bit.  The auto box works ok so far but the diffs make a right racket and neither is LSD.

So with this in mind I have decided to take the bloody thing apart and build myself a good usable Jeep for the winter months I want to lift it up somewhat and put on some bigger tyres but I am unsure what direction to go re the Axles and gearbox ratio wise so that’s why I wanted to ask on here for a few expert opinions of what direction to go in.

The spec of the jeep to start is

Cherokee 4.0    95,000 miles Reg 11/01/02
Front axle      DANA 30 low pinion
Rear axle      DANA 35
Gearbox      selec-trac 4 speed auto
Transfer box   NP242

So what would you do re Axle’s Diffs ratios and Boxes considering I want about a 3.5 inch lift and some 31 inch rubber maybe bigger if I can get away with it.  I don’t want to end up with something with way mismatched gearing however and as I have to do something about all the diff and box noise I thought now is the time.
I am in the fortunate position of having full workshop facilities at my disposal and some very clever people albeit not with any Jeep experience.
Thanks for any advice you can offer

Richard

[tim_aka_tim]

You'll do fine with stock box and ratios as long as you don't go above 31"
Speedo will be out a bit - if it bothers you get a new speed gear - pretty cheap.

Easiest route might be to by a breaker and take the bits you need of that. A 95 or 96
comes with LSD, and will just bolt on as long as the ABS tone ring is the same
(I've a niggling feeling they're might not be).

[bigjeepzj]

I may be wrong but it but it sound like you have different ratios in the front and rear axles due to the 4X4 problems
the easiest way i know to check it is to jack up the Jeep with all four wheel of the ground and with the tranfer box in neutral and turn the prop by hand and count how many time the prop turns for one turn of the wheel.

If you can find a 2.5 petrol xj they had 4.10 ratio axles its a cheep way of getting a better ratio for 31" plus tyers

My bro runs 31"'s with a 3.5" rubicon lift with these axles.
If you LPG it you may need to get taller spring on the rear due to the extra weight

hope that helps 

[tim_aka_tim]

If you can find a 2.5 petrol xj they had 4.10 ratio axles its a cheep way of getting a better ratio for 31" plus tyers

That's a fair option that some have done, except the 2.5 doesn't have ABS, so you will lose it, which
is not allowed on the MOT (make your own mind up if that's ok for you).

[Dave69]

the crunching sound might be the reason why the front prop has been removed. take the front cover off the front diff for a look at the gears, then ponder what might be wrong with the transfer box.

both can be found on fleabay for varying prices with no real guarantees unfortunately

[Mike Pavelin]

http://birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=forum ....There you go. A pair of axles, 3.73 instead of your 3.55, with LSD, ABS, purchase and bolt right in.

[ridgeracer]

http://birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?action=forum ....There you go. A pair of axles, 3.73 instead of your 3.55, with LSD, ABS, purchase and bolt right in.

sorry i cant get that link to work might be me being stupid lol could you send it again

Thanks

[bigjeepzj]

If you can find a 2.5 petrol xj they had 4.10 ratio axles its a cheep way of getting a better ratio for 31" plus tyers

That's a fair option that some have done, except the 2.5 doesn't have ABS, so you will lose it, which
is not allowed on the MOT (make your own mind up if that's ok for you).

Swap the shafts and sensors over

[JamesH]

Or remove all of the ABS system from the vehicle, then the MOT is fine (mine's been fine for 4 years without removing the ABS controller but I have a tester who is more concerned that the brakes actually work).

Axles from a diesel would be good - a bit deeper gearing and still keep your ABS. I'd go for 2-3.5" lift and 30- 31" tyres. If it was mine for winter roads I probably go 2" lift (new springs though, not spacers) and 30" all terrains on standard gearing. I would keep open diffs as well but just have them (and the transfer box if needed) rebuilt. That way you have lots of stock components on the jeep so if anything breaks the replacements are easy to get holds of AND a vehicle that will go most places on slippery roads and green lane type offroading PLUS is still low and stable for any hairy icy road slides and handling experiences (sliding a 6" lifted jeep into a kerb sideways can make you clench!)

[bigjeepzj]

do that to

It all comes down to how mad you want to be and how deep are your pockets.
JH is right the more you mod a Jeep the longer it can take to get the parts to get you back on the road when a mod brakes

so it's the old saying  Keep It Simple.

My Jeep is modified quite a lot and is fun when it work and a pain when it brakes 

[ridgeracer]

Thanks very much for all the advice guys its appreciated.  I have decided to run a 4.1 diff ratio and have found a high pinion front axle with this ratio now I just have to find the rear as I understand it the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle is fitted to the 2.5 petrol Cherokee and after 96 this came with the stronger 29 spline driveshaft?

Can anyone confirm this and does anyone know if they all had an LSD?

It’s a pity there is not a way of getting all this info from a VIN number
Thanks again

[Dave69]

the 8.25 is fitted to the 2.5 petrol in two formats. the mk1 has 27 spline shafts and the mk2 has the larger 29 splines. They are supposed to have an LSD fitted.

the nose of the diff housing is longer than the D30 so will push the prop forward so be aware that this might cause a binding issue on a std height cherokee.

[ridgeracer]

the 8.25 is fitted to the 2.5 petrol in two formats. the mk1 has 27 spline shafts and the mk2 has the larger 29 splines. They are supposed to have an LSD fitted.

the nose of the diff housing is longer than the D30 so will push the prop forward so be aware that this might cause a binding issue on a std height cherokee.

Thanks for that info I am intending to lift it as we have some 33 inch tyres to shoehorn in lol apart from popping out a driveshaft is there anyway to tell which type of spline it is from the outside?
Thanks

[JamesH]

No you have to count the splines as far as I know. I got one off a 97 and it had 27 spline shafts. You can fit a locker and new 29 spline shafts to upgrade if you get a 27 spline one. Mine had no LSD originally and they don't have ABS.

[Tank]

the 8.25 is fitted to the 2.5 petrol in two formats. the mk1 has 27 spline shafts and the mk2 has the larger 29 splines. They are supposed to have an LSD fitted.

the nose of the diff housing is longer than the D30 so will push the prop forward so be aware that this might cause a binding issue on a std height cherokee.

Thanks for that info I am intending to lift it as we have some 33 inch tyres to shoehorn in lol apart from popping out a driveshaft is there anyway to tell which type of spline it is from the outside?
Thanks

To fit 33 inch tyres on an XJ requires at least a 4-4.5 inch lift and possible other driveline attention IIRC

[Dave69]

i have 5-6" lift and to fit 33's they will catch the bodywork on articulation, i.e the fenders will need to be trimmed for clearance. any smaller lift will definately need major bodywork trimming.

31 to 32s might be the best option,



this was mine trying out 33s and no trimming

http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=14405.0

[ridgeracer]

OK story so far i have now got a 8.25 rear axle with a 4.1 ratio same as the front both these axles are in good condition and have come from a low millage 2.5 petrol 1998 Cherokee. the rear is the 29 spline unit and the front is the high pinion type however neither are LSD
Can anyone recommend where to go to get the rear diff converted to LSD i was going to leave the front one as it is.

Ant advice will be most welcome

Richard

[Nosebolt]

with all the trouble these LSDs cause would have thought your best option was a locker

[ridgeracer]

yes i am beginning to think that myself maybe i should think about these Aussie Lockers?

[JamesH]

I have an ARB for this axle (C8.25) that is for sale at half the RRP or maybe less 

Still more than an aussie locker so that may be the way to go. Driving with open diffs does make you learn a lot

[Dave69]

when the LSD starts to give up the driveling clunks good on slow corners, buy an aussie and drop it in, easy fitting as well

[Green Jeep]

yes i am beginning to think that myself maybe i should think about these Aussie Lockers?

I run Aussie lockers front and rear, nothing but praise for them