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[scrw]

Now the Grand is lifted a bit more I have notice the jetwash has started to strip the chassis coating off. I am looking for something to paint on really, that will survive jetwashing so not chassis wax. Whats the best stuff to use?

[Panic mechanic!]

if its coming off  I would check thoroughly along the whole thing as once muck and moisture gets behind it, it will rust thru in no time

[scrw]

In the wheel arches on the WJ its not the rubbery stuff applied to the bottom of the jeep, its just normal paint, in some areas its worn to the undercoat.

[isle of man]

Hmmm off topic here but relevant - who has any experience with galvanising? Thinking of tearing down the 75 as the chassis is crusty in places nothing serious but need doing.

[Nosebolt]

just remember that galvanising is a barrier and not a cure, ANY rot on there when dipped will still be there after and will just carry on rotting under the galv

[Dave69]

get it acid dipped first and see whats left after the rust has all gone

[Dave The Sparky]

oooh,oooh me,me,me mr isle of manky i have had two chassis galvanised, what do you want to know

[scrw]

Anyway, back to painted on rustproofing

[isle of man]

oooh,oooh me,me,me mr isle of manky i have had two chassis galvanised, what do you want to know

**Takes a deep breath**

Alllll rrrrrighty then - what is the cost of such? Do they do all the work? location? Is "KY" part of this?

[Bulldog67]

u take the chassis to them, they shot blast and dip

[Dave The Sparky]

1: Strip it all down so there are no melty things i.e bushes etc on the chassis
2: Get it shot/sand blasted to find all the holes and remove the surface rust on the outside
3: Repair all the holes you have just found
4: Blow it out with an airline as you have now filled it with sand/shot and bits of grinding dust
5: Get rid of any underseal that is there otherwise you will make a mess of the galv and they will have to dip it twice and pay twice
6: Take it to the galvanisers who do the rest

You are looking at about £100 for the shotblast
unlimited £ssss for repairs
cost me about £200 +VAT for the galv part at the beginning of the year.
Oh and you will need a selection of taps and files to clean out the threads and mounts that are now full of zinc

Your problem is you need a galvanisers and i assume there isnt one on the Isle of Man

http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/default.aspx

oh and scrw since this thread has gone awry as usual i found that the underbody sealer stuff with waxoyl seems quite good.
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/

[Nosebolt]

Anyway, back to painted on rustproofing

iron oxide primer (rustolium or POR15) then a chassis enamel, but as always the secret is in the preparation

[isle of man]

1: Strip it all down so there are no melty things i.e bushes etc on the chassis
2: Get it shot/sand blasted to find all the holes and remove the surface rust on the outside
3: Repair all the holes you have just found
4: Blow it out with an airline as you have now filled it with sand/shot and bits of grinding dust
5: Get rid of any underseal that is there otherwise you will make a mess of the galv and they will have to dip it twice and pay twice
6: Take it to the galvanisers who do the rest

You are looking at about £100 for the shotblast
unlimited £ssss for repairs
cost me about £200 +VAT for the galv part at the beginning of the year.
Oh and you will need a selection of taps and files to clean out the threads and mounts that are now full of zinc

Your problem is you need a galvanisers and i assume there isnt one on the Isle of Man

http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/default.aspx

oh and scrw since this thread has gone awry as usual i found that the underbody sealer stuff with waxoyl seems quite good.
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/

TA.....

[Bishops Finger]

Zinc primer spray...followed by some Rustoleum

[IrishCJ6]

I've always gone for cleaning the area down with a wire wheel/flap disc so its clean, a wipe with thinners to clean off any grease and then a couple of coats of etch primer then a coat of stone chip gaurd, not the cheap tar stuff but the over paintable spray type. That is what I'm doing on mine.

[Nosebolt]

Zinc primer spray...followed by some Rustoleum

from what I remember that may be counter productive, the active element of rustolium needs contact with steel to work, the zinc primer works like galv, as a barrier. where as the rustolium or POR15 chemically alters the surface of the steel to prevent rust. rustolium while cheaper than POR15 will also need a wear coat over the top like chassis enamel as it will be easy worn off off roading

[bigjeepzj]

 
These products need to be painted on to the rust.
from what i under stand. They kill the rust by stripping the oxygen molecules from the iron oxide  (rust)
Therefore if you just paint on top of normal paint, you just turn your paint black.

[thorna]

I did a comparative saltfog test a few years ago on coatings applied over new & slightly corroded surfaces.
Por15 is brilliant, but for an easier time hammerite/waxoyl stone chip also did very well & was the easiest to apply handle.
The various underseal waxes were a pain to apply neatly & didn't do too well.

[Dave69]

preparation is the key to a good coating.

chassis enamel is good along with hammerite

[wildwood]

I have used hammerite and POR15 on 2 yJs chassis.........

Hammerite is easy to use and over clean shiny angle ground chassis cleaned surface looks good ..  for a while and then its as if its been blasted off by rain and the elements ...and then its back to square one.....

POR 15 is advisable to buy in the trial tins.very small and then use with a brush and throw away..............its the bollox tho..... and wear gloves and overalls you dont give a crap about....... my gloves had a hole in and it took 5 days for the paint to wear off!!!   

Does the job and lasts......use it on chassis and axles and.........well. anything you want to look  untouched by rust!!