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[willo]

Hello,
What are your thoughts on me running my TJ with the thermostat removed?

I still struggle for decent cooling and wonder as I am doing low speed, high revs driving if it'd be more beneficial for me to completly remove my Mr Gasket Hi Flow T'stat

Thanks

Will

[Nosebolt]

as a last resort maybe but you have tried all other options first? full back flush, higher performance coolant etc

[willo]

as a last resort maybe but you have tried all other options first? full back flush, higher performance coolant etc

er no, hadn't realised you could get higher performance coolant, nor have I tried a back flush. Hopefully I will get Mr IOM's 3 core rad and that will help, I hope. The next move I guess is to mount it in the rear

[Nosebolt]

just seems more likely if its a restriction for it to be be caked up waterways than a high flow stat, as for the coolant, a good quality summer coolant 50/50 with water is a good place to start

[willo]

just seems more likely if its a restriction for it to be be caked up waterways than a high flow stat, as for the coolant, a good quality summer coolant 50/50 with water is a good place to start

ok, i'll give it a go

[Warthog]

Reckon yer struggling to keep it cool, because of the "8274" thats sat in front of the Radiator. Not much air flow with that infront of it.

Maybe a bonnet fan would aid extraction of air. Common over the innlet manifold area.

[willo]

Reckon yer struggling to keep it cool, because of the "8274" thats sat in front of the Radiator. Not much air flow with that infront of it.

Maybe a bonnet fan would aid extraction of air. Common over the innlet manifold area.

Hmmm, its ok on the road when its clean. I wonder if theres a baffle or somet on the market that can be put betwix the rad and the bottom of the grill panel, so mud doesn't get in it so easily

[Dave69]

on the road you have forced air cooling which is good, slow speed high revs cause more heat to generate and quickly. the under bonnet temperatures rise and this heat needs to go somewhere, normally the passing air flow forcs it out under the car and by the wings. so adding a bonnet vent over the manifold you will create another route for the heat to escape.
 have you space to add another fan for an additional boost in cooling when needed?

[isle of man]

This works honest - have it in the wrangler.

[Cockney Boy]

I'm embarking on a bonnet fan for mine, goy my hands on two 7" fans, on for the bonnet and the second to push air onto the Rad.

[willo]

I have removed the viscous unit (but carry a spare in case the leccy one dies) and have a spal 16" sucker directly mounted on the rad which is capable of:Airflow 3250 m3/hour, I have it wired on an on1-off-on2 switch, so that on1 is through a rad mounted t'stat, off is off, and on 2 is permanently on

Oh and I have fitted bonnet vents, 1 above the manifold and one opposite

[Panic mechanic!]

I'm embarking on a bonnet fan for mine, goy my hands on two 7" fans, on for the bonnet and the second to push air onto the Rad.

it will work  more efficiently if it sucks rather than blows.

[wildwood]

My YJ with the 8274 would overheat at 58 and more........... on the road but was fine offroad never even got to middle of dial.
Put cheap 16 inch on front as pusher to help at 58 and above.......... sort of worked but only just........... have original rad and lots of fins are rogered at the back so that doesn't help............

But as the 1 ton is fine ............ never a worry off road even hauling more weight around............... recon you could try hood louvres and maybe 3 core rad as last resort...............£££££££

[Warthog]

I have removed the viscous unit (but carry a spare in case the leccy one dies) and have a spal 16" sucker directly mounted on the rad which is capable of:Airflow 3250 m3/hour, I have it wired on an on1-off-on2 switch, so that on1 is through a rad mounted t'stat, off is off, and on 2 is permanently on

Oh and I have fitted bonnet vents, 1 above the manifold and one opposite

Is the fan running in the right direction (a common fault)

16" Fan probably isnt covering enough of the rad and not as efficient as the standard Viscious.

3 core rad or put it back on the Viscious maybe?

[willo]

Pretty sure the fan is going the right way, christ if I can't work out which way a fan blade is supposed to go round then I should have another job

I'm not convinced by viscous fans in deep water, at least with the leccy I can switch it orft, 3 core is on the way  a shroud of some descxrption would help so at least the fan is then pulling air across the whole of the rad

[wildwood]

A shroud is paramount ............without it you just wont get the benefit of what the fan is capable of.........

[IrishCJ6]

Don't just remove the thermostate you will create cavitation at the housing, you can however remove the inards and leave the actual ring inplace. This will allow the engine to circulate without restriction however will make the heater take a lot longer to heat up. Another thing we use to use when we were racing was a product called "Water wetter" its an aditive that you pour into the coolant system and it reduces the water circulating temperature. It does work trust me. Another thing is if you have two much antifreeze in the system this will increase the temperature also.

[Cockney Boy]

I already have a large fan on the inside

I'm embarking on a bonnet fan for mine, goy my hands on two 7" fans, on for the bonnet and the second to push air onto the Rad.

it will work  more efficiently if it sucks rather than blows.

[Delk]

The engine will not get up to running temperature most of the time causing the ECU to stay in warm up mode. You will burn extra fuel and be down on power.

If I remember the engine needs to be above 70 degrees to switch to closed loop.