Topic: SOA steering woes - full on tech advice needed please (Read 31403 times)

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #50 on:** December 21, 2011, 04:45:30 PM »

cant see a way round it other than flat top knuckles and shaft turned, just gettin prices on both at the moment, knuckles still may be done 2ndhand altho lights have a pair on an axle so is gonna sort a price, and im hopeful ifsja will come up trumps. If the shafts turn out expensive at a workshop them bro is confident of settin up a jig for it

wildwood · « **Reply #51 on:** December 21, 2011, 04:45:52 PM »

Move perches is only way and a safe way otherwise bit of off road articulation and you'll be spitting shims all over the place.

However...... shim it drive it until propshaft/ castor is at the best balance that you can acheive.THEN measure and weld the perches.....

Hate doing things twice...... no no no

wildwood · « **Reply #52 on:** December 21, 2011, 04:51:44 PM »

While I'm at it I really think that angle grinding the welds and removing the C's is a hope in hell scenario.......

It'll never happen as neatly as the pics on Ranger Station.......

Mostly they just (seen this done on US TV) put axle in oil cooled chop saw and cut Cs off then use press to get remains of tube out or bin Cs and put high zoot Reid Racing Cs on...... but they cut so they can shorten full size Dana 60 down to TJ or CJ length....... then you got to get custom shafts $$$$$$$

I wish you luck BUT I think you might find the above to be true

Nosebolt · « **Reply #53 on:** December 21, 2011, 05:48:18 PM »

Quote from: wildwood on December 21, 2011, 04:45:52 PM

Move perches is only way and a safe way otherwise bit of off road articulation and you'll be spitting shims all over the place.

However...... shim it drive it until propshaft/ castor is at the best balance that you can acheive.THEN measure and weld the perches.....

Hate doing things twice...... no no no

for once not sure I would go the same route as you Jez, I would do a dry set up with unwelded perches to see if where everything else ends up, never know may be you can sacrifice a degree on caster for steering clearance and you can also measure exactly how much rotation is needed

wildwood · « **Reply #54 on:** December 21, 2011, 05:58:53 PM »

Yes......... In clear light ....... why did I suggest that......... unwelded dry fitting is better........... tis what I did to get mine angle correct

But be careful if you drive it

Bubba · « **Reply #55 on:** December 21, 2011, 06:50:24 PM »

looking at the pics he currently has the perfect high speed set up for 100mph in reverse i bet she runs perfect even take his hands off the wheel i reckon

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #56 on:** December 21, 2011, 07:35:44 PM »

I believe you are being flippant Kevin

Whatever happens im learnin shitloads, even tho im not actually gettin my hands dirty, i now for instance kno that that big tube thing is called an axle

Gotta take the axle down to a machine shop to get a quote, which is a pita but it has to come off again anyway, so the hunt for knuckles still goes on

Panic mechanic! · « **Reply #57 on:** December 21, 2011, 10:08:11 PM »

you have far too much money to waste.....lol

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #58 on:** December 21, 2011, 10:12:34 PM »

nooo

the kids are goin hate me when they find empty santa sacks on xmas day

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #59 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:30:34 PM »

so far via ifsja been offered another 401

and some knuckles, that are attached to a W/T with a 401

one day Im gonna get on a plane and fill a container

Bubba · « **Reply #60 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:31:25 PM »

with bullshit

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #61 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:38:05 PM »

you can try as much as you like to drag me down into the netherworld that too many live in that is void of any dreams and only driven by meek acceptance of their lot, but it aint ever gonna happen

They said it couldnt be done, but .............

Chief V8

CJ8 V8

J10 V8

CJ7 V8

So a plane and a container at some point in the future shouldnt be too tricky

and of course when it does happen I bet you wants some parts slipped in there

Bubba · « **Reply #62 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:39:37 PM »

bite

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 22, 2011, 08:42:32 PM »

In which case

ya fucker

Bubba · « **Reply #64 on:** December 22, 2011, 09:18:43 PM »

anyways you need all the help you can get cos George Osborne is out to get ya

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 22, 2011, 10:16:22 PM »

yeah I know dood, may well be selling t6he fleet come May anyway

will just have to keep one to use to get me to the job centre

which one tho I have no idea

(I will be hoping to sell them running and complete tho Pa

)

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #66 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:11:32 PM »

what does this mean:

left and right flat top 44 knuckle. Unmachined\stock $150

being offered at good price but dunno what that would entail coz he also has said:

I can get machined "ready to go" knuckles around $325. Those are machined and drilled, but naked. no arms or studs

Nosebolt · « **Reply #67 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:19:19 PM »

at a guess they are rough castings and would need to go to a machine shop before use

wildwood · « **Reply #68 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:20:17 PM »

unmachined means they are not drilled machined and tapped for high steer arms but are as the factory intended.

You need the expensive ones..sorry bout that

then you'll need the high steer arms and all the rods(2) and the ball joints etc........

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #69 on:** December 22, 2011, 11:23:28 PM »

so does not the knuckle just move it so it can sit up above the springs?

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #70 on:** December 23, 2011, 07:08:40 AM »

and BJ's have the kit, but with just a passenger side knuckle

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/ProdInfo.asp?pid=883&cid=13

Im getting more confused as the days go by

Delk · « **Reply #71 on:** December 23, 2011, 08:06:38 AM »

Unmachined means the top section where the upper arm will go is not machined. All the rest of the knuckle is the same. You would have to have the tops machined flat and three holes drilled in each to take the arms. Very easy to do if you have access to a milling machine. The dimensions for the stud locations can be found on a drawings on the internet since everyone uses the original Chevy pattern.

Just watch that the knuckle casting was intended for flat top knuckles. If I remember correctly several castings had flatish areas on the top but were not designed for upper arms so they are not thick enough to take the stress.

This web site tells you what knuckles will work etc.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

The kit you were looking at is designed to move the drag link up higher for large lifts to correct steering angles. It does not move the tie rod up so if you have issues with spring clearance this will not help.

You will also need new upper arms, 9/16NF studs, nuts and tappered cones. These are all easy enough to get and you can have the arms made easy enough if you don't want to buy them from the states.

buy as much as you want since shipping containers from the states are not that expensive. I only had a problem with the costs on this side. The transport of a 20 foot container from Felixstowe to Cambridge was the same price as the Caribbean to Felixstowe!

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #72 on:** December 23, 2011, 08:25:39 AM »

Quote from: Bulldog67 on December 23, 2011, 07:08:40 AM

Im getting more confused as the days go by

Getting

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #73 on:** December 23, 2011, 09:19:03 AM »

so do I need two (ie both sides) flat top knuckles, that are machined?

wildwood · « **Reply #74 on:** December 23, 2011, 09:47:45 AM »

Yes 2
the right one will have 2 holes in it, the outer hole for the drag link(steering)

then your bullet proof

Author Topic: SOA steering woes - full on tech advice needed please (Read 31403 times)

Nosebolt

Panic mechanic!

Nosebolt

Delk