Topic: Willo's Challenge Truck build "Project T-J" (Read 98042 times)

dieselj20 · « **Reply #100 on:** March 17, 2012, 09:25:55 PM »

what ratio ring and pinion i have a new 4.56 rc 44

willo · « **Reply #101 on:** March 17, 2012, 09:28:22 PM »

Quote from: dieselj20 on March 17, 2012, 09:25:55 PM

what ratio ring and pinion i have a new 4.56 rc 44

well bugger me, I have two options, either stay 4.10 and re gear the rear to suit of buy a new 4.56 to match the rear, you have PM mr dieselJ20, not all bad today afterall!

Delk · « **Reply #102 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:12:29 PM »

Do you have any pictures of the callipers and a measurement of the piston. I should have some spare GM ones to compare.

willo · « **Reply #103 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:16:00 PM »

Just at work at the moment but yes i have one at home to try and get info off. Will post in 2 hts or so with pics/dims. Thanks

isle of man · « **Reply #104 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:30:15 PM »

Are they the pin type calipers? If so I have some here going spare..

willo · « **Reply #105 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:48:10 PM »

I'm not sure what you mean by the pin type calipers, but these do have pins that hold the calipers on with a small bit of thread the wrong end (head end). They licate through a hole with a rubber insert in them which in turn holds what looks like a 0.5" bit of tube which can come out. I would know this as i have lost one of the little buggers!

willo · « **Reply #106 on:** March 18, 2012, 07:45:10 PM »

i would say that the caliper piston is as close to 2"13/16's as it can get or 72mm diameter other wise the caliper is 8" long (200mm) and 6 1/4" wide overall distance between pad surfaces if a piston and pads are not in there is 2n5/8"

willo · « **Reply #107 on:** March 18, 2012, 07:52:49 PM »

[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]

dieselj20 · « **Reply #108 on:** March 18, 2012, 07:55:59 PM »

look like fsj calipers

willo · « **Reply #109 on:** March 18, 2012, 07:57:41 PM »

Quote from: dieselj20 on March 18, 2012, 07:55:59 PM

look like fsj calipers

so if IOM and or Delk not an option, Lighty's could be an option?

isle of man · « **Reply #110 on:** March 18, 2012, 08:08:31 PM »

I have some used but good calipers (I upgraded) you need the front or rear? Have a pair of each.

willo · « **Reply #111 on:** March 18, 2012, 08:16:32 PM »

front fsj d44?

willo · « **Reply #112 on:** April 02, 2012, 11:26:54 AM »

For those of you interested, i wrote an article for the awdc outlining my prep for king ov the valleys.

I also started a thread on Devon 4x4, and should soon, when everyone is well again have one here, but in the meantime:

Vectis Racing

willo · « **Reply #113 on:** April 02, 2012, 11:29:44 AM »

I have also started a thread on pirate, where i thought i would be cremated by the flamers, nothing as yet.....

IrishCJ6 · « **Reply #114 on:** April 03, 2012, 09:18:31 AM »

They look the same as the ones on my project, what you actually looking for? Mine were believed to be off a Wagoneer (or at least the pads were)

willo · « **Reply #115 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:14:00 PM »

so we really are past the point of no return now as suspension mounts are being cut off etc, and talk of the day has been to Low-rider it, but with 4' long arms, plenty of bumpstop, and plenty of droop, I still have a set of standard springs in the garage, might have a look see how it'd be with them on.....

isle of man · « **Reply #116 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:19:37 PM »

Low-rider is the way forward!!

willo · « **Reply #117 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:22:24 PM »

gonna be hi lining and tubing the fenders anyhow, and after driving that thug on 37" tyres the other weekend, even for a short while, I could drive stuff most people were winching them selves over, so it makes sense, Also Danny ooop North (big patrol) says it seems to be working

willo · « **Reply #118 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:31:20 PM »

hopefully got all the bits, (thanks Diesel J20 for your help) from Lightys to rebuild the front axle:
[attachment=1]

fresh calipers turned up from Mad offroad

look identical to me:
[attachment=2]

Control arm tube inserts milled to suit ready for glue:
[attachment=3][attachment=4]

just to confirm, that a 60mm od tube (cds) with a 6.8mm wall, hopefully gonna be strong enough otherwise may have to put triangle section over it

wildwood · « **Reply #119 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:34:16 PM »

Seems that on the suspension front...... As IOMS says Low Rider is way to go....l

also ( guess you will have seen this on Pirate) most people are setting their rigs up at full bump rather than running height..... Giving you the low rider fx but still monster articulation and suspension flex..... But no roll over worries of a lofty rig

willo · « **Reply #120 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:37:09 PM »

do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps

isle of man · « **Reply #121 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:38:27 PM »

Don't recommend the people at MAD they are unreliable to say the least!!!!

isle of man · « **Reply #122 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:40:30 PM »

Quote from: Willo on April 03, 2012, 07:37:09 PM

do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps

Clayton does not believe in bump stops, he says you are not going fast enough to need them!!!

willo · « **Reply #123 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:41:23 PM »

most of the challenge L/r's I have seen run with about a 2-3" gap before the bumpstop, then have cone dislocation thingys

willo · « **Reply #124 on:** April 03, 2012, 07:42:41 PM »

Quote from: isle of man on April 03, 2012, 07:40:30 PM

Quote from: Willo on April 03, 2012, 07:37:09 PM
do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps

Clayton does not believe in bump stops, he says you are not going fast enough to need them!!!

but something has to stop the uptravel? I certainly have hit my bumpstops enough times

Author Topic: Willo's Challenge Truck build "Project T-J" (Read 98042 times)

dieselj20

Delk

dieselj20