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[wildwood]

96 GC 4.0 litre

Had to happen........... Opened drivers window this morning hitched up trailer and drove up A1....... bit cold shut window........ NOT...

All other windows and locks working at the respective door but  just the drivers (module that controls everything) does not want to know. Central locking works but not at drivers door.

Stuck with open window at moment. I have done the disconnect battery for a few minutes scenario and nothing!

Is this a fuse (haven't been able to look yet) or is it a door to bits job?

I have done a search but nothing definitive reared its head?

Thanks in advance

[Nosebolt]

had this twice now and both time disconnecting the battery worked for me, sorry can't be more help

[daggie]

that fucking queer, cos my wj has just done the very same, but its the passenger side, Aaaaaaarrrrse

[wildwood]

Some probs just don't go away.........

Googled and you tubed and problem is usually a bust wire in the rubber tube from door..tis the earth and it breaks and its black....... man on you tube showing how feckin' easy it is........... feckin ain't

Wasn't my prob anyway still no joy.took all to bits and cleaned....... noticed that small pin holes in every wire as enters door module..someones had this prob before and pierced wire to get reading.or not........ bollocks.

So..........
Hot wired window motor..works a treat..........

So in summary I can lock and unlock all doors
I need to use key in drivers door....... there a trial........ 's
All windows go up and down........
Mirrors I can adjust with a fist

Just need to spend £4.50 on nice window switch to mount elsewhere, some wire and a relay.......

Guess this is a temp fix that will last as long as the vehicle

[4tom]

I've experienced similar problems with my WJ (WG) at first it was intermittent then finally the windows wouldn’t work from the drives door and I had the dome lights stay on longer than normal.
Seems to be a common fault
The fault was as previously stated the wiring going from door to body.   
The fix is easy   
Unclip by hand the rubber boot at driver’s door and visually inspect the wiring look for breaks or bulges in the cables. Normally it’s the thicker cables that fail first due to amount of flexing every time the door is opened closed.

Once you have identified that this is your problem

You will need the following    soldering iron, solder, heat shrink and short length of cable same diameter as the damaged cable sharp wire cutter or electrical snips.  Some have tried butt connectors but due to flexing they often fail again. It is wise to disconnect the battery but make sure you have your radio code 

There is little room to work within the rubber boot and it make life much easier to remove the panel in foot well to expose where the cables enter the body. 
Cut the damaged cable(s) (if it’s not already broken apart) working at door side pull the broken cable out, from the inside of the foot well pull out the other half of the broken cable. Solder on a short length (9 to 12 inches) of cable and slip over the heat shrink making a nice neat joint. now feed this back through the rubber boot and slip on a short length of heat shrink make solder joint with both cables and slide heat shrink back over joint heat to secure in place. You can pull the excess cable back into the body leaving a little slack so the cables aren't under stress when door opens closes. Reconnect battery and test, all the controls should be working from drivers door, refit rubber booth and panel job done...

[wildwood]

guess I'll have to man up to that one day if I ever want to sell it

trouble is I got hands like shovels.................... a doctor of ladies bits I could never have been

[dazed]

or just swap the door module. I think i paid £20 for mine from gt4x4 when it happened to me.
They do appear on ebay as well, but be careful there are two different sorts that look the same. You have to go with the part number or the colour of the plastic on the back where the loom connects is either black or white.

[wildwood]

Weird world...........

Went to start the GC today ............... very effing flat.............. put '1 Ton' 1000 cca battery on and started............ also illuminated the interior light only left it on for 2 weeks..................

Anyhow module working again for the moment..as I said weird world.............

Battery so flat wont light a test bulb but C-Tek battery charge  says 15hrs to 80% charge will have to wait to see if I have mullared the battery???

[rosie5golf]

Would you believe it ? It happened to me yesterday. I lost window door light and mirror operation.
After reading the forum as a newbie, I took a look at the wiring in the rubber protection tube between the door and the car and found that two wires, the red and white and the black had broken. Not being great with a soldering iron, I used a terminal block to repair them. I don't know how long it will last but all is working at the moment. I think the problem is that these two wires are quite thick unlike the others which are thinner and quite supple.
Its a fiddly job and took me about an hour but at least everything seems to be operating at the moment.

[4tom]

Weird world...........

Went to start the GC today ............... very effing flat.............. put '1 Ton' 1000 cca battery on and started............ also illuminated the interior light only left it on for 2 weeks..................

Anyhow module working again for the moment..as I said weird world.............

Battery so flat wont light a test bulb but C-Tek battery charge  says 15hrs to 80% charge will have to wait to see if I have mullared the battery???

its likely the two problems are related..   when the wiring between the door and body go faulty it causes the BCM to act up.  When you lock up your jeep the BCM should go into sleep mode and draw mAmps and when you unlock the door it wakes up and draws Amps. But with faulty wiring the BCM can waken up many times during the night and this flatens the battery over a few days. when mine was faulty not using it for 3 days was enough to flatten the battery also the internal dome lamps would stay on for longer (up to 10mins) before going out. After repairing the wiring I notice once I press lock on the fob the lights went out within seconds, also because I lived with the fault for some time I had fork out on a new battery later too....    best of luck tracking down the problem.

[Bishops Finger]

Wires and BCM in the drivers footwell....DCM covers central locking...