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[UKJeeper]

As you know, I'm rewiring my ARB switches, swapping out the old to the new style rocker switches (its an old setup). I'm also cleaning up a really bad wiring system installed by the PO under the dash.

As well as the clusterF under the dash, the PO, who installed the ARB's originally didn't follow the ARB wiring diagram to the letter. Which means he didn't use an isolation switch mentioned in the diagram, he just wired the power leads on the front and rear switches from a ignition hot source. Turn on the ignition, switches are live. In addition, either locker can be turned on at a time. Not rear, then front, as shown in the manual.

My plan is to improve on that, slightly, and run a simple isolation switch that just disconnects the power to both switches. Will a simple 'power on, power off" switch take the place of an ignition hot setup (as the diagram instructs)?

Also, I don't see a need to re-wire it all to make it rear, then front, in order as the manual instructs. Unless anyone knows a reason why.

In addition, i'm running belt driven OBA (an upgrade from a QuickAir under the hood) to power not just the ARB's, but also quick connects front and rear for air hoses, and a couple of air tanks. So the pressure cut out switch is not part of the ARB system, it is only to run the compressor solenoid. Is that going to cause me any issues?


One last thing, a noob question. I had the ARB switches getting their power direct from the battery (fused) for the last couple of days. battery was almost flat tonight, but not quite enough that i could still hear the ARB solenoids power down, up when i disconnected,reconnected the battery cable. Even though the ARB switches are off, should they still be getting power? The instructions say use an ignition hot power source so i guess they do. Does that make sense to you?

[willo]

I believe the rear first front second thing is purely a safety thing, i.e try locking the rear first then both, there is more strain on the front end when it is locked, if for e.g you are also trying to turn, I know alot of the challenge boys re-wire so front and back are independantly switched, another thing for me to do on my job list...

My Arb switches come live when the pump is turned on, which in turn becomes live when the ignition is on, ideal arb pressure is between 70-100psi, as long as your pressure switch is set somewhere near there you should be ok.

if something is direct wired to the batterie/s then yes they will have power there when the engine is off

Hope this helps

Willo

[UKJeeper]

Yeah, it does. Thanks. Not really a problem. I already have an power switch plumbed in for the ARB switches, when i re-did all the centre panel switches. So it'll take no time to cut the power wire and move it to a switched source instead. Was just kinda surprised that the ARB switches were sending power to the solenoids, even though they weren't switched to 'on'.

[willo]

Was just kinda surprised that the ARB switches were sending power to the solenoids, even though they weren't switched to 'on'.

something still not quite right there then, if they shut/open when you dis/reconnect the battery and they are switched off then they are still getting a small feed from somewhere, might be worth spraying the switches with contact fluid/spray (maplins should help you) and switching them a few times to clean up the throws, also worth checking you -ve circuit, also seeing what voltage is where with a multimeter would be useful.

[bigjeepzj]

 
but if the valves where powered all the time then assuming your air is always up to pressure then you lockers would always be on
and you would know when you drove it?
The arb valves connect the air to the locker when energized and vent locker when de-energized.

you may just be better of ripping it all out and staring again

attached ARB wiring diagram

[UKJeeper]

All the wires are in the right places, and i have the diagram in three different versions at home, and printed it earlier at work and am still staring at it

. I have a sneaky feeling i know what's up, or in this case upside down. The rocker part of the switches can be removed and rotated 180, so i have a feeling they may be upside down. On is off, off is actually on. I'll find out when i get home.

[bigjeepzj]

rocker and toggles up side down  Thats not been done before 

[willo]

As bjzj said they shouldn't be permanently on. Mine have little lights on them that come on when they are on

[UKJeeper]

OH, FFS, why isn't anything easy?

Been reading up on the rocker switches. There's two types of rockers, that look exactly the same.

However.

The ARB ones are setup to turn on when the switch is in the down position.

The 'Carling' style ones are setup to turn on when the power is in the UP position.


These were given to me years ago, so no idea if they are ARB or 'Carling'. Guess i'll have to wait until i get home to play some more.

[willo]

Lol, arb use carling switches

[UKJeeper]

Yes, they do. But they are configured differently:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64589


Anyway. i'll look into it when i get home.

[willo]

If we both make it to the breakout i will have a look if you are still struggling

[UKJeeper]

Thanks  , but i'll have it sorted as soon as i can get hands to it. Only realized the problem last night, after it was dark.

[UKJeeper]

Yup, switches were 'upside down'. Off was down, on was up. Pulled the switches, flipped them 180, put them back, reversed the rockers, now it's 'right'.

Have also moved the power from a straight battery connection to one of the newly installed dash switches, so it has a 'master'. All sorted. 

[bigjeepzj]

cool