Topic: winch tested with jump leads and a spare battery ... leccy questions (Read 5047 times)

Dutch · « **on:** June 16, 2012, 09:52:51 PM »

Gents,

As the above says, no solenoids, no nothing just battery + leads

Got a ground connection on bottom of the motor
Two connections F1 + F2 on top
1 connection on top but further back

Leccy's

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #1 on:** June 16, 2012, 09:58:00 PM »

you need three jump leads or thick ish wire
connect the bottom ground to battery neg
connect f2 to top connection
connect f1 to bat poss
the winch should run

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #2 on:** June 16, 2012, 10:11:00 PM »

this diagram should help

Bulldog67 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 16, 2012, 10:11:45 PM »

is that a flux capacitor

Dutch · « **Reply #4 on:** June 16, 2012, 10:14:34 PM »

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow morning

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #5 on:** June 16, 2012, 10:17:46 PM »

just reloaded the diagram Duch

and bd its electrical magic best you leave alone

Dutch · « **Reply #6 on:** June 17, 2012, 05:39:37 PM »

Been tinkering today and for a 'two left handed leccy' not bad I think.

[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]

Story is : aquired this bag of spanners to see if this can be given a second lease of life.

Also got the warn solenoid box with 4 loose and disconnected solenoids rolling around in it. also I feel that they are not a matching foursome.
Also got a remote courtesy of MJS. Motor was hanging off so organized some m6 studbar and there is a lot of corrosion on the ally components and some
holes so this one will not be fit for any submarine work.

Sooooo .... stripped the whole thing down, leccy bit & coggy bit, cleaned, serviced, greased and put it back together again.

Hence the original question.....how to fire it up.

Well fire it did.... f**kin 'ell these winches pack an electrical punch dont they. Bridged A & F2. At first when I put the jumplead clamp near/on the F1 (reel in) connection it sparked pretty badly so I thought that the thing was shorting out but after being a bit more heroic and just clamped it on it rumbled into life

I changed the bridge to F1, and power to F2 (reel out) but got nothing than sparks and no joy

(why would this be?)

I recharged the spare battery and had another go and the thing is happy as larry reeling in so I put my new spectra rope on it.

Since there is 1/2 a life in it I'm thinking the following :

Most of the time you want to pull yourself toward something anyway, reel in, so could I make the bridge between A & F2 permanent and work with a marine (red)
breaker in the cab? reeling/pulling out on the free-spool is a doddle.....attach hook, engage breaker and winch in......breaker off.

earth to chassis
link A to F2
Power from battery to breaker in cab -> to F1 on winch.

Oh and nearly fried my heavy'ish duty jump leads so must source wires as thick as my little finger.

Also made a template winch mount in mdf to give to the fabby's tomorrow. See id they can make this out of 5 mil stainless

wildwood · « **Reply #7 on:** June 17, 2012, 06:30:38 PM »

I've got the 4 solenoids off my 8274 on their backing plate...I replaced them with Albright after last year at CF

It turned out that my remote had a short and that was my prob.....

So yours for the postage if ya want...... 2 of them are original and 2 are replacements and they were working well after I fixed my remote....( already had the Albright by then

)

Just a thought

willo · « **Reply #8 on:** June 17, 2012, 06:58:06 PM »

5mm? is that all.......

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #9 on:** June 17, 2012, 07:07:55 PM »

Quote from: Dutch on June 17, 2012, 05:39:37 PM

Well fire it did.... f**kin 'ell these winches pack an electrical punch dont they. Bridged A & F2. At first when I put the jumplead clamp near/on the F1 (reel in) connection it sparked pretty badly so I thought that the thing was shorting out but after being a bit more heroic and just clamped it on it rumbled into life

sorry forgot to tell you about that part. Until the magnetic field is formed you are basicly shorting out the battery so the is a bit of a jump

I can get these switches cheap there good for making in cab controls

Switch Link

Dutch · « **Reply #10 on:** June 17, 2012, 07:15:11 PM »

Due to the size of the cables was thinking more in this direction

[attachment=1]

willo · « **Reply #11 on:** June 17, 2012, 07:28:42 PM »

As it happens I have a Durite 250A winch breaker for sale, its one of these:

The one you ave pictured won''t be man enough

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #12 on:** June 17, 2012, 08:10:36 PM »

the switch is for controlling the solenoid pack not the winch
you old iron lost will never get the ways of the electron
and willo is write that cheap isolator will melt

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #13 on:** June 17, 2012, 08:14:51 PM »

this is what i did
http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=17790.msg205365#msg205365

wildwood · « **Reply #14 on:** June 17, 2012, 08:54:20 PM »

Buy willo's isolator! seriously........

I have one and it's saved my butt twice in2 years when cross wiring and solenoids and shit would not do as they were told!Some have em up front where the winch. Bitch can see em ...... Others have em in cab........ Paranoia would say have both.....but then paranoia would say. Don't go off road

Worth it tho......
Also get the biggest fattest cable you can 50mm square or whatever....tis worthwhile cos it won't get hot or suffer Chinese melt down

willo · « **Reply #15 on:** June 17, 2012, 09:00:57 PM »

I run 70mm2

Dutch · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2012, 11:21:26 PM »

Also need a hook, looked at this chaps' shop in Plymouth on the Bay.

What spec. do I need ?

wildwood · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2012, 12:06:25 AM »

Might have one of those as well
Tis black though and bolts thro with the two,bumper bolts on left ....or right. will have a look tomorrow.

willo · « **Reply #18 on:** June 18, 2012, 08:05:19 AM »

Quote from: Dutch on June 17, 2012, 11:21:26 PM

Also need a hook, looked at this chaps' shop in Plymouth on the Bay.

What spec. do I need ?

speak to David Bowyer, he's down your way too

Dutch · « **Reply #19 on:** June 18, 2012, 10:33:49 AM »

Quote from: Willo on June 18, 2012, 08:05:19 AM

Quote from: Dutch on June 17, 2012, 11:21:26 PM
Also need a hook, looked at this chaps' shop in Plymouth on the Bay.

What spec. do I need ?

speak to David Bowyer, he's down your way too

Sorted, didn't know I had this one lying around @ work

Rated @ 20.000 lbs. That'll do just nicely.

Save £26.60
RRP £266.55
Only £239.95
(€ 311.94)

[attachment=1]

willo · « **Reply #20 on:** June 18, 2012, 12:48:20 PM »

A tylaska aint the thing for it mate, as it will open under load.... The correct hooks are obly like £12 just get the right part for the job and be done!

Dutch · « **Reply #21 on:** June 18, 2012, 02:02:15 PM »

Yes dad

willo · « **Reply #22 on:** June 18, 2012, 03:12:30 PM »

Plus the jaw on a T20 won't be big enough to latch onto you tree strop

Dutch · « **Reply #23 on:** June 18, 2012, 04:58:41 PM »

Quote from: Willo on June 18, 2012, 03:12:30 PM

Plus the jaw on a T20 won't be big enough to latch onto you tree strop

Will work with a nice spectra strop with spliced eyes

willo · « **Reply #24 on:** June 18, 2012, 06:29:43 PM »

Note to self, remind people to bring a tree strop in case they are winching off trees.

Author Topic: winch tested with jump leads and a spare battery ... leccy questions (Read 5047 times)