Topic: calling Mike P or any other electrikery wizard (Read 5337 times)

Nosebolt · « **on:** December 06, 2012, 11:45:06 AM »

this is ongoing from the TPS issue, have fitted a new Mopar TPS and seemed to be fine for about 10 miles, now I have a similar problem but its not exactly the same where as before the engine would limit at 20 mph it will now get to 40mph but the revs fluctuate when under load I did manage to get it to do the same with the bonnet up and it sounded like it was back firing into the air box.

what could be causing this?

HELP!!!!

tag · « **Reply #1 on:** December 06, 2012, 01:31:56 PM »

Just a thought... did you try pulling codes..........

demonicwillow · « **Reply #2 on:** December 06, 2012, 01:34:59 PM »

Possibly either the CPS or the distributor switch plate if it has one, or a faulty coil pack if they are fitted, I say this as im not sure what one you have.

edit, ah just seen

I would suspect either the CPS or the switch plate in the distributor.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #3 on:** December 06, 2012, 02:29:47 PM »

been doing some research and the symptoms seem to match a MAP sensor failure, a quick search on eBay and found a used low milage gen part for £18 so have ordered it and will see if it helps.

Have also taken off and cleaned the air idle motor which was heavily sooted.

14 mile drive home should be interesting

tag · « **Reply #4 on:** December 06, 2012, 02:44:34 PM »

If it's rich could be lambda. it would run ok for a few miles then start running lumpy, then start missing and back firing....... i know i changed mine earlier this year,

wildwood · « **Reply #5 on:** December 06, 2012, 02:50:31 PM »

positive side of all this is when you're all fixed the mods will have to make this a stickie......

Cos its gonna happen to us all over the next few months years.......... Ad this information all in one place is gold

Nosebolt · « **Reply #6 on:** December 06, 2012, 03:43:14 PM »

back home now, as I said I had the air idle motor off and cleaned it also took off the MAP and made sure air ways were clear and rubber not cracked, refitted it all and engine would not idle

2 footed it to drive home and was rough as fuck for about 6 miles with the engine check light on, the all of a sudden EC light went off and engine started to run sweet all the way home

the replacement Manifold Air Pressure Sensor is ordered and will be here early next week but the more I read the more I recon it is the MAP at fault, just read this hope this is the problem as will be a cheap fix at £18

big g · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2012, 06:15:32 PM »

Does sound like your symptoms,interesting how it started running well again after rough start.

Be tempted to keep the gear to swap MAP in the Jeep and see how long it runs Ok before swapping out.

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #8 on:** December 06, 2012, 08:47:22 PM »

Is the cat breaking up?

MOCAJ · « **Reply #9 on:** December 06, 2012, 09:02:34 PM »

Quote from: Mike Pavelin on December 06, 2012, 08:47:22 PM

Is the cat breaking up?

my TJ cat collapsed causing backfiring through my airbox/ snorkel

but i did get downstream oxygen sensor fault

Nosebolt · « **Reply #10 on:** December 06, 2012, 09:56:12 PM »

cat is about 6 months old, fitted new when I had the stainless exhaust made

Lukemagnum · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2012, 08:29:46 AM »

From your previous thread, how much carb cleaner did you put down it's throat?

Too much can interfere with proper combustion and dislodge carbon and crap, either of which can affect the cats and lambda sensors.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2012, 09:50:22 AM »

had the problem before the carb cleaner was used, there was a slight improvement after it was used

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #13 on:** December 07, 2012, 10:18:59 AM »

Check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail. should be about 45 psi.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #14 on:** December 07, 2012, 12:10:56 PM »

just tried to go out and it wouldn't start, did the key thing again and got a fault code 12 which makes sense as I disconnected the battery when I did the TPS, had a look at the dissy and the points and cap are well fucked so of on a walk to try and get replacements now, will report back later

Nosebolt · « **Reply #15 on:** December 07, 2012, 01:20:52 PM »

ok new dizzy cap and rotor fitted and it wouldn't start, took off the IAC (53007562) and fired up but idled at 3000 rpm seems the piston on the idle air control has come loose, don't think this is my rough running problem but could def be the starting problem.

trying a quick fix to keep the ZJ on the road and will order a replacement today.

more to come when new parts fitted

big g · « **Reply #16 on:** December 07, 2012, 01:30:25 PM »

FFS. I would've had a Basil Fawlty moment with the F'er by now.

Can't be much left to change,hope you sort it.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #17 on:** December 08, 2012, 12:54:03 PM »

AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGG

so new air idle control motor fitted and used, tested MAP sensor fitted, it idles fine at start up but when warm the same old problem comes back,

I asume the fuel system is next to check but how do I do that? or do I just take it to a garage and bit the bullet?

demonicwillow · « **Reply #18 on:** December 08, 2012, 01:32:35 PM »

Have you tried to eliminate a CPS problem ?? its possible for the cps to break down when warm/hot and a simple way of finding out, is when the engine is hot get a hosepipe and run cold water over the cps for a short while, then go drive it and see if the problem has or hasnt gone away, if it has then as the cps dries and warms back up the problem will return but if the problem hasnt gone away then this should eliminate the cps of the cause of trouble, I had a similar problem a few years ago (not a jeep but the same setup) and this was how I diagnosed the cps fault.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #19 on:** December 08, 2012, 02:39:13 PM »

now I'm even more confused, just tried the engine again after letting it cool down and as soon as it got warm it started again, so went through the process of checking all plugs were seated properly by unplugging and pushing home firmly and have just run it for a good 10 mins with hint of the problem, so next as soon as the misses gets back (she has gone out without a key as usual) I will take it down the bypass and see how it performs

if it does show the symptoms again I'll try that check on the CPS

Nosebolt · « **Reply #20 on:** December 08, 2012, 03:48:43 PM »

first test drive and seems ok,

need to go out of town tomorrow so that will be a proper test, fingers crossed

Nosebolt · « **Reply #21 on:** December 10, 2012, 08:58:14 AM »

what do I do now?

test drive yesterday was fine so wife used the ZJ for work today and it happened to her twice on the 14 mile journey.

Nosebolt · « **Reply #22 on:** December 10, 2012, 09:23:48 AM »

is it worth checking the upstream O2 sensor? the old sensor was reused when new cat/exhaust was fitted

Cockney Boy · « **Reply #23 on:** December 10, 2012, 09:31:07 AM »

NB I maybe missing something and I can only apologise if you've already done it but have you plugged a fault scanner in?

Nosebolt · « **Reply #24 on:** December 10, 2012, 09:42:59 AM »

dont have a fault scanner only done the key thing to get codes

Author Topic: calling Mike P or any other electrikery wizard (Read 5337 times)

Nosebolt

tag

demonicwillow

Nosebolt

tag

Nosebolt

big g

Mike Pavelin

Nosebolt

Lukemagnum

Nosebolt

Mike Pavelin

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

big g

Nosebolt

demonicwillow

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

Nosebolt

Cockney Boy

Nosebolt