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[ukturbo2000]

Not sure if pump has completely failed but check guage light came on and oil pressure was at zero then rose to around 30 and back to zero and so on. Problem is that i now have a bearing growl which comes in at about 2500 rpm so something down below is shagged. Any ideas on bits that are likely to be fooked and parts prices/places to purchase said parts to put it right appreciated ( i have a mechanic friend who will do the work for me ) head refurb carried out by reputable garage just before i purchased it. Engine has done 108,000 warranted miles

[isle of man]

What engine? Petrol? Diesel?

[Cockney Boy]

Pressure senders are common to fail. For £25 I'd change that first

Does the other noise change with engine revs?

[robsrotti]

What engine? Petrol? Diesel?

It,s a 4.0L

[isle of man]

What engine? Petrol? Diesel?

It,s a 4.0L

Then first call (and cheapest) will be the oil pressure switch and replace the filter, second call will be more hands on, remove the engine sump and clean the pick-up pipe.

[ukturbo2000]

Pressure senders are common to fail. For £25 I'd change that first

Does the other noise change with engine revs?

the growl comes in at around 2500 revs not before and sounds like an old cortina with mains that are shot. sorry yes its a 4 litre

[ukturbo2000]

What engine? Petrol? Diesel?

It,s a 4.0L

Then first call (and cheapest) will be the oil pressure switch and replace the filter, second call will be more hands on, remove the engine sump and clean the pick-up pipe.

cheers i will get a new sender and check the pickup for sludge etc.

[Green Jeep]

Maybe try an engine flush or put some diesel in and run up for 15 mins, it ain't Gunna hurt and will help clean throughout

[ukturbo2000]

Maybe try an engine flush or put some diesel in and run up for 15 mins, it ain't Gunna hurt and will help clean throughout

Diesel ? In the sump ? surely not

[Panic mechanic!]

yup or you can use auto trans fluid as it has a detergent in it to break down oily deposits but don't run it for long with it in

[isle of man]

Indeed a mix of diesel and ATF but only let it tick-over.


Never done this myself, but believe some people have had limited success, the removal of the sump would be the preferred option though.

[Panic mechanic!]

its used more for sticky lifters and such normally

[ukturbo2000]

Cheers guys, think i will drop the sump tho. Anyone know if it will come out wiith engine in situ? Got 3" lift . Does that help any

[wildwood]

Double J had this on his Mog axled rig 2 Turkey Hunts ago..... I had foot on throttle and at about 1500 to 2k there was rattle similar to Cortina with rogered camshaft....... It was a bearing...... Sump off time I am sorry to say......

But I do hope I am wrong

[Green Jeep]

Diesel will clean the inside of an engine.

I had a 'big end' noise between 2500 and 3000 revs, would then clear and the Jeep would rev nice and clean to 5000, turned out it was a cracked piston which was caused by blocked oil ways to the scrapper ring on the piston and it had got too hot. More details on this thread... http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=21852.msg255961#msg255961

Sump was easy to remove on my TJ, would say should be the same on your Jeep.

So you might be sump off, head off, if your taking the head off leave the manifolds on as it makes the job much easier, only a couple of hours to take off.

Cheers Maf

[ukturbo2000]

Diesel will clean the inside of an engine.

I had a 'big end' noise between 2500 and 3000 revs, would then clear and the Jeep would rev nice and clean to 5000, turned out it was a cracked piston which was caused by blocked oil ways to the scrapper ring on the piston and it had got too hot. More details on this thread... http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=21852.msg255961#msg255961

So you might be sump off, head off, if your taking the head off leave the manifolds on as it makes the job much easier, only a couple of hours to take off.

Cheers Maf

would a compression test help with the elimination process ? just thinking it could tell me if its top end or bottom

[Green Jeep]

Don't think this would pick up a bearing failure... but worth doing as it might point you toward which piston/rod is making the noise.

We could tell the noise was from one of the forward pistons...

Does the noise clear after 2500? Would expect a big end to get worse and of course at high revs to let go completly. I had a little insite that it wasn't a big end on mine as I knew the noise had been there for a couple of years, plus I don't think these engines are known for big end problems?

[ukturbo2000]

Don't think this would pick up a bearing failure... but worth doing as it might point you toward which piston/rod is making the noise.

We could tell the noise was from one of the forward pistons...

Does the noise clear after 2500? Would expect a big end to get worse and of course at high revs to let go completly. I had a little insite that it wasn't a big end on mine as I knew the noise had been there for a couple of years, plus I don't think these engines are known for big end problems?

the noise definately gets less noticeable as the revs increase, below 2500 its as sweet as a nut

[Green Jeep]

It does sound very much like what I started with, normally a big end noise would start lower than 2500 and get worse... think your going to need head and sump off and keep checking everything through until you find a fault.

Once we got the head off we could physically move No 2 piston and when we cleaned the piston we could see the crack, once removed we could see the crack had gone right down the side to the piston skirt and only a little force was needed for a large piece to break off.

I could be barking up the wrong tree, but a strip down is the only way I think your going to find out what is going on. You'll need a 1/2" 12 sided deep socket for the head bolts, everything else was standard tool kit stuff (I think).

Cheers Maf

[ukturbo2000]

It does sound very much like what I started with, normally a big end noise would start lower than 2500 and get worse... think your going to need head and sump off and keep checking everything through until you find a fault.

Once we got the head off we could physically move No 2 piston and when we cleaned the piston we could see the crack, once removed we could see the crack had gone right down the side to the piston skirt and only a little force was needed for a large piece to break off.

I could be barking up the wrong tree, but a strip down is the only way I think your going to find out what is going on. You'll need a 1/2" 12 sided socket for the head bolts, everything else was standard tool kit stuff (I think).

Cheers Maf

thanks for all the advise