Topic: James' boring XJ build thread (Read 53037 times)

JamesH · « **Reply #125 on:** August 04, 2013, 08:02:18 PM »

A bit of tinkering time today - more reinforcement plating made, drilled, shaped and test fitted. It's a slow process, aiming for Cheapfest though.

Sent from my MZ604 using Tapatalk HD

Ezz · « **Reply #126 on:** August 05, 2013, 12:37:37 AM »

Looks like a lot of works gone into that, I've got a bad patch on the TJs chassis..

JamesH · « **Reply #127 on:** August 18, 2013, 09:10:48 PM »

Slow progress

donk498 · « **Reply #128 on:** August 18, 2013, 10:54:40 PM »

Looking good! Reakon you'll have it done for cheapfest?

JamesH · « **Reply #129 on:** August 19, 2013, 06:50:58 AM »

Yes, this lost of jobs will be done for Cheapfest - it will never actually be finished

JamesH · « **Reply #130 on:** August 22, 2013, 11:39:54 AM »

Spoke to BOAB yesterday about OBA fittings and the reducer for a lower pressure ARB circuit and seem promising but the main guy isn't back until 4th September.

Is it worth going 8mm pipe and fittings over 6mm? I would think yes for the better airflow to air up tyres and run tools but anyone have other ideas?

wildwood · « **Reply #131 on:** August 22, 2013, 01:53:15 PM »

Got BOAB system......had it for years.......and then I got the ARB step down valve that is basically a tap to turn flow down...........works a treat and has never let me down.........was unused for 2 years when I got rid of original axles but now powers the air drum for the winch........at same pressure as ARB.......

I went 8mm from pump to air tank and then 6 mm to the delicate bits...... With my system I could bypass the valves and filters and step down thing and go full fat 8mm direct from the tank.....
But then your risking moisture rust and stuff.

BOAB market their stuff in Oz as a get you out of the shit system and get you home so you don't die in the outback........Tis quality stuff.........it ain't cheap though........ain't fast either.....

JamesH · « **Reply #132 on:** September 10, 2013, 06:46:55 PM »

I really never learn - event looming closely, I try and finish a few more bits than I should and stuff goes wrong

I'll save myself some embarrassment by not posting pics but it's enough to say that the winch mount I was building for the 8274 is shite and I'm starting again

So no winch at Cheapfest but it shouldn't hamper my beer drinking and jeep chattin round fires too much

isle of man · « **Reply #133 on:** September 10, 2013, 06:51:59 PM »

http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page76.html

JamesH · « **Reply #134 on:** September 10, 2013, 07:42:53 PM »

I've got an ok mounting plate, it's the fitting to the Jeep and getting to the finished vision I have that's the problem (with the limited skill, tools, time and cash not helping) .

On another topic, I finally got the pitman arm off to fit a dropped one to help with angles. Following a recent post I checked the alignment splines, see picture. The drop one is offset to the opposite way, presumably cos it's LHD part. Question is - will it make any noticeable difference? I don't have full lock either way due to tyres so I'm guessing not but don't have time to piss about changing pitman arms 5 times before the weekend

isle of man · « **Reply #135 on:** September 10, 2013, 07:45:26 PM »

Quote from: JamesH on September 10, 2013, 07:42:53 PM

I've got an ok mounting plate, it's the fitting to the Jeep and getting to the finished vision I have that's the problem (with the limited skill, tools, time and cash not helping) .

On another topic, I finally got the pitman arm off to fit a dropped one to help with angles. Following a recent post I checked the alignment splines, see picture. The drop one is offset to the opposite way, presumably cos it's LHD part. Question is - will it make any noticeable difference? I don't have full lock either way due to tyres so I'm guessing not but don't have time to piss about changing pitman arms 5 times before the weekend

Ahhh this old chestnut!! You need to look at moving the steering arm to a high knuckle.

JamesH · « **Reply #136 on:** September 10, 2013, 08:04:03 PM »

The steering arm is already onto a WJ knuckle which has a higher second point for draglink and the mount is flipped so it's on top. Track bar is almost flat and this pitman arm should just about restore drag link to being parallel with the track bar. I could increase the angle of the track bar but that's a bit backwards in my view.

At the moment there's some bumpsteer but not crazy, just something I'd like to sort.

The Smiths · « **Reply #137 on:** September 10, 2013, 09:13:34 PM »

You will also find out that the drop pitman arm needs further work - if you don't you will kill a couple of track rod ends before noticing it.

The crank on the end of the arm is the wrong way - for a LHD.

It will need heating up cherry red and bending over - I tried, and failed - so ended up sending back to Llamm 4x4 and David did it for me.

Picture shows it - car is flat and steering straight - but joint is maxed out.

Took me 2 TRE before realising

JamesH · « **Reply #138 on:** September 10, 2013, 09:26:57 PM »

Good tip - I'll check mine when installed. As i have slightly different steering it could be better (or worse).

JamesH · « **Reply #139 on:** December 03, 2013, 09:06:30 PM »

Ok, a few updates. Pitman arm was a no go, the keyway spline was off centre the same as the stock one but in the other direction. Obviously for a LHD and confirms there is difference. The result was no r/h lock so ditched it and went back to stock and will lower the axle end track bar mount to compensate.

Cherry bomb fitted and noisy. Cat made into a hi-flow with the aid of a big bar

. Bends and tube arrived from Jetex.

Winch mount re-worked to look less like a window box but not yet fitted (killed a grinder in the process but it served me well and it did abuse it).

New TPS fitted, cheap ebay one from US cos it got here quick BUT, still have really bad rough running.

Question - bad idle, really bad splutter / hesitation, TPS changed, no blocked CAT, crank and cam sensors replaced not long ago with Mopar ones. No fault codes last time I scanned but I didn't scan again today. Ignition components not old and v low miles on them. Won't rev above 3k rpm. Has moments of perfect idle but it's not driveable. Should I start looking at mechanicals? Compression?

JamesH · « **Reply #140 on:** January 30, 2014, 08:18:44 PM »

Replacement fuel pump fixed the running problem so I've moved on to getting stuff done to MOT it, mostly a decent handbrake.

As I posted in the thread about bad running, I've got Transit rear calipers with a lever type handbrake function. I planned to pair these up with Nissan 350z rear discs because they are the same 5x4.5" bolt pattern and same diameter and thickness as Transit rear discs.

Got both parts today and unfortunately the friction surface of the discs is too thin for the Transit pads, about 40mm and I need about 60mm for the Transit calipers.

Bit of an arse but I thought I should give an update to this thread. Now back to the online brake catalogues, I know Delk uses Defender front discs so I might give in and go this route if I can't find anything else.

scrw · « **Reply #141 on:** January 30, 2014, 08:54:08 PM »

I have used rally design caliper brackets welded onto an axle tube end to mount sierra calipers before (salisbury) From experience its easier to source the disks first then calipers/brackets after.

JamesH · « **Reply #142 on:** January 30, 2014, 09:05:34 PM »

Stock XJ front discs almost work, I'll keep investigating.

The transit calipers look perfect, big, mechanical handbrake and replacements parts are cheap. I'll make the brackets after I get the discs sorted, it'll all come together. I've got re-drilled discs on the front so am happy to do this again if needed but correct bolt pattern would be nice.

scrw · « **Reply #143 on:** January 30, 2014, 09:23:39 PM »

what rear axle you running? Looked at ford explorer ones yet?

JamesH · « **Reply #144 on:** January 30, 2014, 09:59:46 PM »

Chrysler 8.25. It seems rear discs that have a drum handbrake use narrow pads. The transit discs re-drilled would be an obvious match. Quite a few front discs will work too if the caliper will open enough to accommodate slightly thicker discs.

Delk, if you read this then pics of yours would be handy.

dtooth · « **Reply #145 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:16:39 PM »

There's a couple of types xj front disc with slightly different back space

JamesH · « **Reply #146 on:** February 09, 2014, 08:10:26 PM »

I've got some early discovery front discs that are solid, about 14mm thick and plenty of space for the transit pads. I'll have to redrill them and the holes will be on the edge of the hub opening but the metal is at least 10mm thick so I don't see this being an issue. Best of all, they are cheap!

I also fitted some shackle mounts to the front bumper so that's almost there too - pics of all this next weekend

bigjeepzj · « **Reply #147 on:** February 09, 2014, 09:10:36 PM »

cool glad you getting there with it

Delk · « **Reply #148 on:** February 09, 2014, 09:50:06 PM »

I just got home from Scotland so here is a quick pic. I will get some better ones later this week.

My wife would not be pleased if I went out and started taking the tires off the Jeep after being gone for four weeks. Especially since it looks like I will be headed back out over her birthday.

Delk · « **Reply #149 on:** February 10, 2014, 08:02:41 PM »

Wheels off

Author Topic: James' boring XJ build thread (Read 53037 times)

donk498

dtooth

Delk

Delk