Topic: Newly lifted XJ problems (Read 4203 times)

just-boot-it! · « **on:** May 23, 2013, 01:48:44 PM »

Having finally got a lift done to my Jeep today we noticed both rear hubs have slight in/out play as in towards the centre of the diff. I dont remember this before. When installing the new leafs we did one side at a time, could this have affected the way the shafts locate as we had the diff at all sorts of angles, it dosent feel like wheel bearings as the wheel dosen't move in another direction. Abit dissapointed to say the least

chrisjones · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2013, 02:04:44 PM »

That's normal

UKJeeper · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2013, 02:07:24 PM »

Dana 35's do move like that. "it's a feature"...

just-boot-it! · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2013, 02:10:01 PM »

Like I said I never noticed it before but we were looking for faults so.... Also the new leafs i fitted came with shims but there is a little vibration due to the new prop angle I think, is that ok to live with as its only like tyre noise? Before and after pics included.

chrisjones · « **Reply #4 on:** May 23, 2013, 03:34:42 PM »

It's sitting a little high at the back at the moment. Give it a while and it will settle a little that will help the prop angle..

If its the props that are vibrating it will probably only do it at certain speeds (a bit like an unbalanced wheel). If it keeps doing it after a few weeks you could fit a T case drop kit (if you've not done it already. That should sort it out.

eastryjeep · « **Reply #5 on:** May 23, 2013, 05:44:17 PM »

If you dont want to hang about waiting for the vehicle to settle, load her up with a few bags of cement or what ever, just so the back end has drooped from where it is now and take it for a spin.
If it's the propshaft angle causing problems the speed at which the vibration comes and goes will have changed.
It might also be that the old U joints are on their last legs and cant cope with the extra deflection.

If it were me, I would lift the front end to restore driveshaft angle equilibrium before too long and then start looking for gremlins, if any persist.

BUT who knows, I might be wrong! Wont be the last time I dont suppose.

JamesH · « **Reply #6 on:** May 23, 2013, 07:53:28 PM »

The shims should be used to make the pinion at the rear diff parallel to the output from the transfer case. Other driveshaft styles need the pinion to aim upwards towards the transfer case so it might be worth checking they are installed right.

just-boot-it! · « **Reply #7 on:** May 24, 2013, 08:06:47 AM »

The wedge of the shim is pointing to the front. We also removed the flat bottom leaf because the u bolts werent long enough and I could see it collecting crap as you drive along. New and old leaf comparison pic :

The Smiths · « **Reply #8 on:** May 24, 2013, 11:17:07 AM »

try turning the shim around

just-boot-it! · « **Reply #9 on:** May 24, 2013, 03:15:54 PM »

Just been down a lane near me a few times to help it settle and every time i measure it the left side seems to be a little higher than the right, and the vibration gets worse under acceleration / speed increase as oppose to any set speed

donk498 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 24, 2013, 06:00:04 PM »

Lifted xj's always lean to the right. Don't know why, they just do. It will definitely be propshft vibration. Try it without the shims in.

ukturbo2000 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2013, 06:13:00 PM »

I added an extra spring isolator to my drivers side front spring when i did my lift. It fixed the lean and runs true and straight

just-boot-it! · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2013, 06:31:01 PM »

Got a laning trip monday with 2 passengers so ill see how it goes with some weight in it, on a positive note how much better do XJs look with a lift

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2013, 06:34:08 PM »

Quote from: donk498 on May 24, 2013, 06:00:04 PM

Lifted xj's always lean to the right. Don't know why, they just do.

Not after snapping and welding a spring!!

JamesH · « **Reply #14 on:** May 25, 2013, 09:48:35 AM »

Try without shim and then with shim facing other way. The way you have it at the moment is definitely not right.

donk498 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 25, 2013, 03:23:02 PM »

I was running the same springs as those when I bought this xj and it had vibes until I removed the shims.

just-boot-it! · « **Reply #16 on:** May 26, 2013, 08:49:32 PM »

Im in the process of getting a transfer box drop kit for next to nowt made up so im gonna fit that and try it first as its alot simpler than getting those shims out on a drive with limited tools etc until my mechanic mate comes back from his hols.

The Transporter · « **Reply #17 on:** May 26, 2013, 10:37:40 PM »

I was puzzled at the shims when I removed the springs.... They seem to have been fitted to make the nose of the diff point further towards the ground which I'm sure is wrong....I think that the wedges should be fitted the other way round.... The axel on my Jeep always made funny noises which I assumed was a worn axel

The car looks much better raised a little... I doubt that you'll need that bottom leaf but if you look at worn springs, they seem to deform around where the Ubolts clamp... My guess is that the lower leaf is to reduce this deformaton over time

JamesH · « **Reply #18 on:** May 26, 2013, 10:54:16 PM »

Pointing the nose of the diff (pinion) down towards the ground is what you want to do but no shims at all might be the way to go. A transfer case drop might not fix the prob as it affects the angles dfifferently. Adjusting the shims on the drive isn't too bad cos the springs can stay in place and it'll be easier if it's only recently fitted

The Transporter · « **Reply #19 on:** May 27, 2013, 12:06:25 AM »

James, I don't understand why the nose should point to the ground...I would have thought that the nose would have been better pointing up to redce the angle between the axel and the output on the transfer case....Or am I just being dumb?

donk498 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 27, 2013, 05:01:59 AM »

If running a standard prop then the output on the transfer should be at the same angle as the diff flange so the ujs are in time with each other. Ujs being out of time with each other is what causes the vibration. Usually the diff is set slightly low to allow for the pinion climbing the crown wheel on acceleration. If you run a prop with a double cardon in it you then need to point the diff at the transfer output.

The Transporter · « **Reply #21 on:** May 27, 2013, 09:50:52 AM »

Right, so if I understand, if the output flange on the transfer case is vertical then even if you raise the car (within reasonable limits) then as long as the flange on the pinion is vertical then it should be fine.... So really you should only need the wedges if you have droped the rear end of the transfer case by the same number of degrees.....Have I got that bit right?

chrisjones · « **Reply #22 on:** May 27, 2013, 10:01:25 AM »

Kind of. You certainly don't want the nose if the diff to be pointing up'ards

The Transporter · « **Reply #23 on:** May 27, 2013, 11:47:39 AM »

At the risk of asking a really dumb question then, what is the purpose of the wedges? The only other use that I can think for them would be if the axle is either forward or rearward of the apex of the spring and the nose of the axel is either pointing up or down and needs correcting to make it level again...

JamesH · « **Reply #24 on:** May 27, 2013, 11:51:45 AM »

They are to correct the pinion angles. I had to fit some when I put extended shackles on and the effect was tipping the pinion up towards the transfer case. The shims were put in fat end forward to compensate for it

Author Topic: Newly lifted XJ problems (Read 4203 times)

just-boot-it!

UKJeeper

just-boot-it!

eastryjeep

just-boot-it!

just-boot-it!

donk498

ukturbo2000

just-boot-it!

donk498

just-boot-it!

donk498