Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Duncan C]

A few months ago I decided to regear my 1997 4.0L sport. I am running 33's so looked at changing R & P and carriers but the cost was huge. With a bit of research I found out that the Petrol 2.5 L had 4.10 ratios so I got a pair of axles from a 1997 2,5l petrol from a salvage yard. I have only just got round to getting them fitted but the axles are non ABS whereas my 4.0l is ABS.

Questions -

1. Have I really bought the wrong axles ( I thought I checked the ABS thing   at the time but cant remember for sure...). Did the later 2.5 l come with ABS??
2. I could just fit them anyway and disable the not use the ABS but the garage seems to thing that will cause future MOT issues. Is there a way round this?
3. Am I just completely stuffed and back to drawing board!!!!!!

Any help would be appreciated. I cant seem to find out if the later model XJ's 2.5l petrols were ABS. I did check that they were from a facelift and they said they were so I assumed (wrongly) they would pretty much just bolt on

Thanks

[bigjeepzj]

swap the shafts and sensors over to the new axle
there should be a hole to mount the sensor on to the new axle
at worst you need to swap the knuckles  as well.

[Mike Pavelin]

If the rear axle is a Dana35 swap the shafts ' n stuff over to reinstate the ABS, If it's a Chrysler 8.25 this wont work so you'll have to remove the entire ABS system technically to get an MOT or (ahem) at least knobble the warning light.

[Keta]

I have recently done the exact same thing. But my replacement was a Chrysler rear axle, apart from the ease of regearing I mainly did it for the stronger Chrysler axle. So I have had to lose the ABS. There is no evidence of it other than in the bonnet now and I have pulled a relay and a fuse which, as Mike says, turns off the warning light. I could swap out further if I get a really picky MOT man but I am leaving it at that until it fails on it. Technically with the authorities that be you don't need to have ABS on this age of car as long as all evidence of it is gone/replaced. 

It isn't a bad job at all really and gives you a good chance to clean things up and paint/protect a bit if wanted.

Another bonus was my Chrysler axle was limited slip so for now I have just put a locker in the front axle.

[Duncan C]

Thanks guys -really helpful. The axles are both dana 35 I think the garage had looked at swapping the shafts over but said they were complelelty different to the ones in the other axle -i think they said thy were a different diameter so the bearings would be different too? Does that sound right?

Or should they be a straight swap?

Cheers

[Keta]

If they are both Dana 35's they should look identical from the outside more or less. And parts will be a straight swap, the shafts will be slightly different I am guessing so the ABS sensor has something to "sense" but they will fit just fine. The chrysler axle looks a little more chunky as well. I am not sure which axle is most common on the diesels over here.

[bigjeepzj]

[Duncan C]

Well, one problem solved. Having compared the axles side by side, the new one is a Chrysler. I had taken a quick look when it was delivered but they rough shape and indent in the cover seem similar to the D35 its just that the Chrysler one is much bigger. Only issue now is finding a way round the MOT.......


Keta, did you find it an easy swap -is it same dia axle tube so can you sue the U bolts etc and also can you reuse the existing propshaft??

Thanks again for the help Guys

[Mike Pavelin]

The Dana U bolts will be too small, the prop might be OK.

[Keta]

Well, one problem solved. Having compared the axles side by side, the new one is a Chrysler. I had taken a quick look when it was delivered but they rough shape and indent in the cover seem similar to the D35 its just that the Chrysler one is much bigger. Only issue now is finding a way round the MOT.......


Keta, did you find it an easy swap -is it same dia axle tube so can you sue the U bolts etc and also can you reuse the existing propshaft??

Thanks again for the help Guys

A bit different in my case as I had ordered a new lift kit, Rubicon Express, as well as the axle. I did have to specify that the U bolts were for a Chrysler axle so I am guessing they are different and probably need changing. Yes propshaft side is more or less identical you will probably have to source some new U bolts only I am guessing.

It is good news it is the Chrysler axle though as they are known to be stronger, if you open the diff up at some point and post a photo we could tell you if its a limited slip too.

[Duncan C]

Thanks Guys - will keep you posted and also try and get a photo of the diff on here!

[JamesH]

I also swapped a Chrysler axle in. The U-bolts are for a 3" tube and I found the cheapest way to buy was to get them made at a spring company. Prop was fine for me but I also installed on a lifted Jeep so the distance from transfer case to diff is slightly longer than on a stock Jeep.

I had a few MOTs with just the fuses and ABS relays removed with no problems. I've since removed the ABS pump altogether and fitted a non-ABS proportioning valve and new brake lines so it looks like it never had ABS.

[Duncan C]

Thanks James

I am on a Rubicon 3.5" lift and 1" coil spacers and extended shackles - so 4.5" altogether give or take. Is that similar to you???

cheers

[demonicwillow]

I have a chrysler 8.25 and the abs light does what its supposed to do 

[Duncan C]

Ok, after a long process the are axles swapped, abs stripped out etc all works fine, except when you take your foot of the gas and coast down there is a metallic grating sound. I am thinking this is in the drive train as the only other thing that was done whilst it was in the garage was the inner cut out of the cat.

Any ideas?? Sounds like a bearing but which would it be?? Or could it be a driveline vibration??