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Author Topic: Diff Build Question  (Read 8933 times)

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Mike2909

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2014, 12:28:04 PM »

I'm running a standard TJ 30 up front apart from an ARB locker and 4:88, perfect for 35" tyres and stock 44 rear, also with an ARB, in the almost 2 years of froading I've only bust 2 front uj's, I was going to upgrade the front shafts, but I've just got a pair of JK rubicon 44's, it'll be a while before they go on my TJ, but when they do my current axles will be up for sale..
There was  JK Rubicon breaking on ebay but the axles had already been sold.
Did the stock rear come with LSD originally and you changed to ARB locker or is that not possible?
I have found a 44 rear at a scrappy near me ( U pull it) I am going down today to check the ratio see if it matches my front. They are only asking £80 but have to remove myself- worth taking a risk on it I think.

That's the JK, axles where sold because I bought them :hysterical:
jk axles are 5 inches wider than a TJ.
My TJ had ARBs in it when I bought it..

Somehow I knew that  :violence:
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Mike2909

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #26 on: May 20, 2014, 01:35:36 PM »

The more research I do about rear axles and diffs  the more I realise I know fook all  :jpshakehead:

It gets even more frustrating when I see what a friend of mine in the US can do for a quarter of what I have to pay.

Good job I am on holiday this week - I think .





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JamesH

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #27 on: May 20, 2014, 02:01:09 PM »

The C8.25 is a strong axle and will come with disc brakes form a KJ Cherokee so would be a good upgrade.

ARB lockers replace the whole carrier and spider gears so can be installed in any axle regardless of LSD or not.
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Dave69

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #28 on: May 20, 2014, 05:53:20 PM »

ford explorer rear axle
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Mike2909

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #29 on: May 20, 2014, 08:26:04 PM »

ford explorer rear axle
I checked that on the US forums as there is an Explorer at the scrappy disc brakes and all and they only want £80 for it.
It seems it is not a straightforward swap and requires welding and some fabrication that is beyond me.


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Mike Pavelin

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #30 on: May 22, 2014, 07:24:09 AM »

This may sound stupid, but what are you trying to achieve? What do you intend using your Jeep for?
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Mike2909

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #31 on: May 23, 2014, 09:23:28 AM »

This may sound stupid, but what are you trying to achieve? What do you intend using your Jeep for?

Long answer is too long winded , short answer is best off road capability I can afford. Not used on road except for driving to off road sites  but kept road legal.
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Mike Pavelin

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #32 on: May 23, 2014, 11:00:54 AM »

In that case the answers to your questions depend a lot on how much money you have to spend on it.
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Ezz

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #33 on: May 23, 2014, 11:50:28 AM »

What gearing are you running?

My current axles sound ideal for you..
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2009 JK Rubicon now sold
1997 TJ wrangler 4.0, jk rubicon 5.38 geared  axles, 38.5 mud treps,  101" wheelbase

Mike2909

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #34 on: May 23, 2014, 11:57:47 AM »

What gearing are you running?

My current axles sound ideal for you..
3.73 on 35" with 5 speed manual gearbox.
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isle of man

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #35 on: May 23, 2014, 01:23:53 PM »

For 35" it's 5:13 R&P with stick shift.
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Delk

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #36 on: May 23, 2014, 02:37:15 PM »

I am running 5.13's with 36's and its to much. 4.88 would be a better option.
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Ezz

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #37 on: May 23, 2014, 04:27:44 PM »

What gearing are you running?

My current axles sound ideal for you..
3.73 on 35" with 5 speed manual gearbox.

Bloody hell, I hated mine on 4:10 on 35s both on road and off..
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2009 JK Rubicon now sold
1997 TJ wrangler 4.0, jk rubicon 5.38 geared  axles, 38.5 mud treps,  101" wheelbase

isle of man

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #38 on: May 23, 2014, 04:30:08 PM »

I am running 5.13's with 36's and its to much. 4.88 would be a better option.

But you have a stroker torque monster engine.

For me, I have 5:13 with 37" tyres through an Atlas 3:8 and stick shift NV3500 with supercharged 4.0, for me this is not deep enough, I guess we are all different.
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Ezz

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #39 on: May 23, 2014, 04:30:54 PM »

For 35" it's 5:13 R&P with stick shift.

4:88 is the lowest a D30 can go
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2009 JK Rubicon now sold
1997 TJ wrangler 4.0, jk rubicon 5.38 geared  axles, 38.5 mud treps,  101" wheelbase

JamesH

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #40 on: May 23, 2014, 04:34:50 PM »

4.88 with 35s and an auto is fine but I'd go lower if it could be done cheaper
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Ezz

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #41 on: May 23, 2014, 07:13:49 PM »

4.88 with 35s and an auto is fine but I'd go lower if it could be done cheaper


I have to agree James, I'll be regearing the Rubi axles to 5:38, but I'll be going to 37s
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2009 JK Rubicon now sold
1997 TJ wrangler 4.0, jk rubicon 5.38 geared  axles, 38.5 mud treps,  101" wheelbase

Delk

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #42 on: May 23, 2014, 07:41:57 PM »

Mine are okay ish on the road but the revs on the motorway are higher then I like. Could slow down but what's the fine in that.

My issue is since I have a 4 to 1 kit in the transfer case I am to low for muddy stuff and don't get the wheel speed until I am in fourth or fifth. It was fine when I did a lot of really technical driving.
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wildwood

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #43 on: May 23, 2014, 10:59:12 PM »

Have to say that 5.38s and 40's have the right feel at road speed........

BUT by that time you are pushing soooo much weight down the road that you know that the next step is a V8 shaped step and 400 hp.

Not that I have taken the 1 Tonne on the road.......

Much :icon_twisted:
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Mike Pavelin

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #44 on: May 24, 2014, 11:55:15 AM »

Blimey. 3.73 is no good for 35s. You cheapest option is going to be to hold out until someone has a pair of suitable re geared axles for sale that you can just bolt on. Otherwise you ain't gonna get much change out of 3 grand to upgrade and regear to a basic standard on a 30 and 44 unless you can do all the work yourself. You could also consider going down to 33s and running 4.10 or 4,56, it'd take some strain off the driveline.
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wildwood

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #45 on: May 24, 2014, 01:44:18 PM »

Amazing we all have such different takes on this.
I started off with 4.56 on a Dana30 and 44 I was running 33s and it was good. It would go to 30 in top gear and pull away  and was happy to shoot past 70 on the Motorway......

I then went 35s and it was a slug that needed to be changed into 4th if you dropped below 50 and forget trying to sit at 70. Yeah it would, but your foot was in the carpet and you knew you were just blowing your wallet out the tailpipe. Reality check by satnav said 60 was a happy speed.

Fuel was 18 average on trips up the A1 to Tong with 33s
12 or 13 on 35s.......
Thank god I was running LPG...... :icon_twisted:
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Dave The Sparky

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #46 on: May 24, 2014, 02:40:22 PM »

There is a 4.27 ratio as well. :icon_winkle:
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bigjeepzj

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #47 on: May 24, 2014, 02:53:45 PM »

4.56 on my zj run sweet on 33's
if your going the bigger that 33's go ford 8.8 and D44 but then go 37's,
cos the diff is bigger by 1" so 35's wont make a different in ground clearance of 33's
it will cost you a lot for a re-gear  so go as big as you can and get lockers fitted at the same time. I would go ARB others will say no but it's up to up.

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Delk

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Re: Diff Build Question
« Reply #48 on: May 24, 2014, 03:36:32 PM »

It makes a big difference in what tires you are running also. When I went from 35x16 boggers to 35x12.5 Goodyear Mtr's my jeep turned into a rocket.
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