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[Brynjaminjones]

I've had a couple of MOT failures on the XJ that I want to run past you guys before I spend money!

The CO readings were too high at idle and fast idle, whilst the lambda value was high (just!) for the 2nd fast idle test.
Will this be cause by the upstream O2 sensor (I had a new cat last MOT)?

It also failed because apparently (in their words) the "Ball joint has excessive play centre (steering arm)".
The guy said that it looked like it had been stuffed with grease in the past because of this. I would guess this was a couple of years ago when I took it to Dutch for some grease to get rid of a steering clunk!
Does anybody know exactly which part he's on about though?

[5536paulj]

Bryn,

I've no idea on the CO stuff, far too high tech for me, others will respond.

The steering joint sounds like the one on the steering box end of the steering arm, if you can't find the play by wiggling it take it back to MOT guy and ask him which one, either way it's a consumable part and an easy job.. have a go yourself maybe?

Paul

[Brynjaminjones]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for that. Whatever it needs I will probably be doing myself. The XJ is now home with me.
I did ask the MOT man for a description but didn't understand what he was saying. I should have just asked him to show me!


If it is what you say, is it a case of replacing a rubber bushing-type-thing?

[JamesH]

Normally a sensor playing up causes the fail on emissions. Do you have a scanner?

[5536paulj]

It's basically a track rod end, a small ball joint.  Remove the split pin from the nut, and then undo the nut. To break the taper on the joint there are various techniques, whack with a hammer or use a ball joint splitter, as you're replacing the joint you can whack it as much as you want....

Just make sure you know which one it is!   

[Brynjaminjones]

Thanks Paul, I'll get underneath soon to confirm which one it is!

James, unfortunately I've not got a scanner so can't check for faults.
I have been thinking though - is there any likelihood that the emisssions could be to do with the Jeep not having been used for months, and maybe having the battery disconnected? I'm wondering if giving it a good thrashing might clear things out?

Also, what's the legality on driving without tax whilst trying to get it MOT ready? It's fully inaured, but don't you need an MOT to get tax?

Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

[bigjeepzj]

 XJ has stood for a good wile prob need a good run to blow out the crap
get the engine up to temp and give it some good revs to clear it out
check the air filter and replace if dirty that may just  be enough to drop the emissions

the ball joint in simple i use one of these normally

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK381-Ball-Joint-Remover-Splitter-19mm-Jaw-Capacity-for-Cars-Light-Vans-/201472198105?hash=item2ee8adc5d9:g:rZIAAOSwKIpWA8jR

when your unsrcew it from the rod count the turns so you screw it back in to the same length.

you can only drive it to a booked mot or repair shop

[Dave69]

ball joint holds the wheel hub in place

track rod end is the "ball joint" bit on the end that connects to the hub

Dave your a limp wristed fairy, hit the thing with a hammer and it will pop, if it doesnt pop then get a bigger hammer

[Brynjaminjones]

Excuse my lack of correct terminology, but I think I've established that it's the joint on the end of the bar that comes from the pitman arm, at the opposite end to the pitman arm.
It looks like there were actually several advisories on this since 2008, but knowing the previous owner (my dad) it would never have been fixed unless it failed!

I've also managed to order an oem O2 sensor from RockAuto for £50 express shipping

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[bigjeepzj]

:

Dave your a limp wristed fairy, hit the thing with a hammer and it will pop, if it doesnt pop then get a bigger hammer

[wildwood]

That'll be the 'Drag link'......in US speak.....

Maybe we call it the ' steering rod.'....

I've been hovering toooo long onPirate obviously!

[Dave69]

its the bit at the end that's works fine but will fail an mot if the rubber has split

[wildwood]

Back when the 1 Tonne was a more normal vehicle I replaced the rubber boots on the balljoints, and drag link with harder shiny plastic versions from Daystar.....they last and last..... Just a thought

[Brynjaminjones]

I've just had a chance to get under the XJ, and it seems to actually be the end of drag link that attaches to the pitman arm. It had yellow chalk on it, so I assume that's what needs doing. I couldn't feel any play in it myself, but then I was freezing so didn't fiddle for long!


Where should I look for this, and what is the correct thing to search for? So many of these words seem different from the US, and all of these ball joints look very similar to me!

[JamesH]

To test for movement get under the car so you can see all the joints and get a friend to turn the steering wheel back and forth left to right. You shoul see movement / wobble / 'jump' in the joint that is worn.

[Brynjaminjones]

Cheers James, I figured it needs replacing to keep MOT man happy anyway, so got the correct part number by calling Jeepey Mart.

I've ordered one for £17.99, as well as a tool for it because I know I'll be useless, and also a grease gun!

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[JamesH]

Despite what Dave69 says I've never managed to pop one using the hammer hitting technique, I use a 'pickle fork' (US slang) ball joint removal tool and BFH.

[Dave69]

never used a pickle fork, using a hammer to shock it free has always worked. it all depends on what size hammer you use of coarse.

pop it out of the pitman arm and move the threaded bit around, it sould be smooth and tight not rough and juddery as it moves

[wildwood]

I have had success using TWO hammers...... Same principle just seems to work well hitting it both sides at once.....

Heavy Metal.....

[LairdScooby]

Not having done a wild amount of ball joints (but more than enough or me!) my experience might be slightly limited. However i have learned a few things VERY quickly over the years.
First is never use a "pickle fork" type ball joint separator. They have a habit of slipping and if you have just clouted it with a 4 lb lump hammer it could slip in any direction, including straight through the sump! It could also annhialate other suspension components. Oh yeah, and even when they do work, they are a "sh!t or bust" tool.
Second is squirt a little WD40 or similar o the thread/taper before starting to remove the nut. Depending on the type of nut it will either be a castellated nut with a split pin (cotter pin to our US cousins) or a Nyloc nut. Once you've loosened the nut, wind it up to the top of the thread where it can be removed with finger pressure but still protects the thread, and give it a few thunmps with a hammer in the direction you want the taper to go. This might appear to have no effect but does in fact help to shock the taper free, making the use of a ball joint separator easier. The one linked to earlier in the thread should be fine for most things on a Jeep.
Next, lube the threads of the bolt and pivot on the ball joint separator - this makes life much easier!
Once the separator is on and tight, tap the outer part (wwhere the taper goes through) of the joint - sometimes this is enough to finish what the separator started, other times it just helps.
If it is still reluctant, take the tension off the separator and give the end of it a tap with the hammer - there is an extra section  where the bolt goes through for this. It helps to seat the separator and get it back into position for the next bite.
Retighten the separaor and usually the taper will now pop easily. Remove the nut from the end of the thread/taper and you're done removing it, apart from winding it off the drag link, track rod or wherever it is coming from.

All this might seem like it's being too kind to something that is only going to be replaced anyway, the big point is if you can't shift it, you can still use it while some more WD40 or similar does its job. Also minimises any "collateral" damage from getting too brutal!

Once you've fitted the new joint, don't forget to grease all the ball joints (even the new one) with the grease gun and wipe off any excess.

Hope that useful, one of my big things is "prevention is better than cure" hence taking the amount of care on removal, greasing the other ball joints (to increase their life and - oh yeah - it helps the steering too! ) and i've always found that fixing one thing in good time is better than having to fix several because they've all been neglected - much easier on the back and especially the wallet!!!

[Bubba]

Despite what Dave69 says I've never managed to pop one using the hammer hitting technique, I use a 'pickle fork' (US slang) ball joint removal tool and BFH.

i routinely use the hammer method 

[JamesH]

You definitely have the knack from years of experience. I need more practice!

[Brynjaminjones]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I got around to trying this today, and so far I'm struggling.

I tried using the ball joint tool like Dave posted further up, but it threads all the way in before the ball joint budges.

I think I'm going to try wedging something between it and the top of the joint next time I try, and hope that works!

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[Brynjaminjones]

Also, the new O2 sensor arrived in two days from the US, and I've taken the Jeep out and given it a good thrashing so hopefully emissions should be okay!

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[LairdScooby]

I would suggest an old spanner or piece of angle iron/flat bar or similar between the top of the ball joint thread (don't forget to leave the nut on the end of the thread for protection) and the ball joint separator.

Good luck!