Topic: need some advice guys- head gasket! (Read 7094 times)

fett · « **on:** January 06, 2016, 10:46:20 PM »

Hi guys, I really need some advice!

seems I have been sold a bit of a lemon in the form of 2000/2001 grand cherokee with the 6 cylinder. On the upside it has working multimpoint lpg.

It seems the headgasket as gone and is pressurising the cooling system I have had a sniff test done and it has failed.

I am contemplating doing the headgasket myself but I dont want to strip it only to find and cracked head or block- are these engines known for that or is it most likely the gasket?

I have built a rover v8 in the past so have some experience but is the 4.0 six got any tricky bits I could fall foul of? I am guessing its a timing chain, do I need tools to set the timing?

Ive got lots of dash warnings up- where is the fault code socket and which reader so I need?

Finally where is the best place to get the parts and what parts do I need?

many thanks for any help you can offer - bit of a problem in my life this one and money down the drain

Green Jeep · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2016, 08:20:48 AM »

It's an iron head and block so normally they are not cracked.

I have basic mechanical skills and completed a head gasket change, 12 sided 1/2" socket is needed for head bolts, basic tool kit should cover everything else. nothing to worry about on the timing chain as you don't go near that. Exhaust manifolds are often cracked so worth planning a repair or replacement whilst your in there and check the water pump, there must be a cause for the gasket to fail...

Most motor parts stores should be able to supply a head set, or Jeep specialists, on eBay or Lighthouse (google them, norfolk area).

Hope this helps, just take your time, label the injector wires, take photos etc, all good for helping on the rebuild...

Jonny Jeep · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2016, 09:33:15 AM »

Not sure if it will work for you but within five seconds try turning the ignition on-off-on-off-on and leave it on the third time. If it works fault codes will display in the odometer. Otherwise a bog standard OBDII reader will read engine codes from the computer. The socket is under the corner of the dash.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2016, 11:26:59 AM »

4.0s are normally tough, but there were a couple of years around when yours was made that were prone to cracking the cylinder head, I believe between cylinders 3&4, so it might be worth checking that.

Google Jeep 0331 head and you should find details!

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UKJeeper · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2016, 01:39:18 PM »

Ah, there you are. Welcome!

JamesH · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2016, 01:40:30 PM »

What Bryn and Green Jeep said...

fett · « **Reply #6 on:** January 08, 2016, 12:14:06 AM »

Thanks guys for your kind replies and thanks to my lz buddy for pointing me to this great forum.

Ok so I had a look tonight and mayo is now on the oil filler cap so not great sign as its only done about 10 miles with me- what a scammer, moral of the story is never send a mate to view a car, do it yourself ha ha.

Daft thing is I wanted the v8 but got the 4.0 for reliability on gas as its for work but Im still paying 2001 road tax on her

so bit torn on what to do could move it on for a loss but Im not a scammer like the guy that sold it to me, garage suggested ceramic sealer but Im not sure or could do it properly myself but a bit more cost and precious time and effort.

So to decide if I do it just a couple more questions if you will kindly indulge me, there is noise from the power steering pump, I am not so bothered but there is also a almost rubber on rubber noise coming from the column thats sounds as if its inside the car- not too worried if its safe but any ideas? I dont want to have to buy another column after doing the gasket for example.

Also ideas and prices and availability on good used heads and exhaust manifolds in case what you suggested earlier is a problem? are all the heads and exhaust manifolds the same?

Also final verdict on what oil these late 4.0 use? Ive been told 5w30 fully 10w40 fully and 10w40 semi.

would prefer fully synthetic as it stays clean on gas and should last well

gazjeep · « **Reply #7 on:** January 08, 2016, 07:05:50 AM »

Hope you get it sorted for not much moolar, 10w40 Semi is just fine

Have a look here

http://www.birtydastards.com/frm/index.php?topic=8091.0

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #8 on:** January 08, 2016, 12:13:02 PM »

I'd say it's worth fixing as 4.0s are normally bombproof, much more so than the V8.

I'm not sure of exhaust manifolds on Jeeps of your age, as I have a feeling they had been updated to a two pieces manifold by that year, so no longer had the cracking issue.

If it's anything like my XJ, the rubber on rubber noise is just the grommet where the steering column goes through the firewall, worse when cold. A bit of grease should quieten it down.

Power steering pump is an easy replacement, although my noisy one hasn't failed yet. Not sure how much they vary year by year though.

Any of those oils should be fine. I've used all three in my 4.0 and its never had a noticeable difference.

Also, a good used head shouldn't cost too much, as you can get a whole engine for £200.

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Delk · « **Reply #9 on:** January 08, 2016, 01:10:06 PM »

The heads changed somewhere around 99-01 but I don't remember exactly. The newer head has a reputation for not being as good and cracking. You can identify by the smaller exhaust ports and two piece exhaust manifold. Google should help.

You can put an earlier head on but will need a matching exhaust manifold etc. If you have coil packs you may need to mount these somehow.

It maybe far easier to pick up a complete engine off Ebay and swap the whole thing.

LairdScooby · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2016, 12:50:27 PM »

Not sure if this idea is worth saying but some people rate K-Seal as good for sealing cracks in cylinder heads. According to the blurb on the bottle, it's a permanent repair and for the sake of about a tenner (last time i looked at it) could be worth a try.

However, PROCEED WITH CAUTION!. I say this because some vehicles have very small channels in the cooling system which can easily become blocked by sealants of this type. Also it's curing the symptom, not the cause. Hopefully one of the more experienced on here can tell you if it's really worth a try.

The real answer is to strip it down and try and find the cause and deal with it from there.

Dave69 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 11, 2016, 06:30:44 PM »

K-seal to be sold with every VM diesel engine

K-Seal relies on a high temperature to create the barrier, only lasts as long as your coolant system isnt flushed as it constantly repairs itself and NOT a permenant fix

LairdScooby · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2016, 06:36:26 PM »

You learn something new every day! Thanks for the heads up! Been a long time since i looked at it and it said on the packaging way back then that it was permanent but obviously you're more up to date with it than me.

fett · « **Reply #13 on:** January 18, 2016, 09:22:28 AM »

Thanks guys, I'm hoping the head is sorted now- next question how do I get the abs light to go out? No luck with my obd2 reader as that seems to only deal with engine stuff when plugged in to the drivers side socket. I just want to re set the light and see if the fault comes back ATM. Many thanks for all your kind help.

Brynjaminjones · « **Reply #14 on:** January 18, 2016, 01:00:57 PM »

I know that unplugging the battery on my older Grand Cherokee for a while reset all the warning lights that once appeared...

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fett · « **Reply #15 on:** January 19, 2016, 12:59:26 AM »

Thanks guys, I take it I'm not going toget locked out of the car or have alarm or immobiliser trouble if I connect the battery? Memories of EKA code nightmares on a p38 Range Rover haunt me when disconnecting batteries, also will the ecu have to re-learn it's perameters and have it run rough for a while if I disconnect the battery? Many thanks

LairdScooby · « **Reply #16 on:** January 19, 2016, 01:32:45 AM »

Can't be sure on the later ones but my 95 Cherokee had to relearn the tuning on the PCM (ECU) much like the MEMS system on the Rangie - no EKA codes to worry about (as far as i know) but to be on the safe side, make sure the keys are out of the truck and well away from the ignition barrel when you disconnect the battery!

I don't know if Jeeps suffer the same as Rover/Land-Rover/Range Rover vehicles with having the key in the ignition when the battery is disconnected but for the sake of making sure the keys are out it's not worth risking!

Might be easier if you could find the fuse that supplies the ABS memory and pull that for ten minutes, i'm sure someone can advise which fuse that is. It's what i do on my Rovers although neither of them are MEMS equipped or new enough to have the immobiliser that locks out if the battery is disconnected with the key in the ignition.

fett · « **Reply #17 on:** January 19, 2016, 10:15:40 PM »

Thank you, somone please advise me which fuse!

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #18 on:** January 20, 2016, 05:18:43 PM »

Don't worry about disconnecting the battery, it's not a problem, you'll just need the security code for the radio.

fett · « **Reply #19 on:** January 20, 2016, 06:18:09 PM »

Thanks, think it's an aftermarket pioneer anyway so hopefully that's ok. So if we are certain this later post facelift jeep will be ok disconnecting the battery I will give it a go!

Many thanks guys

Author Topic: need some advice guys- head gasket! (Read 7094 times)

fett

Green Jeep

UKJeeper

fett

Delk

LairdScooby

LairdScooby

fett

fett

LairdScooby

fett

Mike Pavelin

fett