Birty Dastards Jeep Club

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Clutch on 96 Cherokee 2.5 Diesel  (Read 6073 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

rayc

  • Guest
Clutch on 96 Cherokee 2.5 Diesel
« on: July 10, 2006, 10:18:38 PM »

Well I changed the master cylinder over on the Cherokee and now have a non squelchy clutch pedal.

However! (There's always a however :lol: ) If I leave the Jeep overnight the clutch is spongy in the morning. Pump it a couple of times and it works fine. However the biting point is very near the bottom of the clutch pedal travel. There's no air in the system.

Every now and again the clutch works fine but the majority of time it's near the bottom and drags in changes.

Before I go down the route of changing the clutch itself I thought I would ask if this is 1) "normal"
2) can the fulcrum be lubricated in situ

3) is it a common problem

or 4) do you think the clutch plate / cover is shot? (does squeak when depressing clutch pedal but thought it may be due to duff mater cylinder not pushing enough travel on plate mechanism)

Any assistance would be gratefully received!
 :D
It's done 149,000 miles by the way

Thanks guys

Ray
Logged

Dingo

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2006, 10:22:24 PM »

I'm not very techie, but has it been offroad and is full of poo? Does sound like clutch is on it's last.
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2006, 10:26:24 PM »

Dont know is the answer mate.
I bought it with a clutch problem. The master cylinder was shot and squelching everywhere.

The underneath is quite clean and it doesn't look like it's seen much apart from the lane where the house I collected from was.

I must admit I'm erring on the side of the clutch myself but what is throwing me is that it's biting at the bottom of the pedal travel not the top.
Which makes me wonder if it's mechanism not moving fully
Logged

greggmo

  • Founder
  • Forum Member
  • *
  • Guru: 2
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8230
(No subject)
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2006, 10:57:57 PM »

recon the slave is fooked but while you are doing that you might aswell do the clutch too. 8)
Logged

MK1

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2006, 11:01:56 PM »

On the CJ you have to adjust the free play. This will sort the low biting point problem.
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2006, 11:07:51 PM »

Slave seems fine. No leaks or dampness anywhere.

Just looking through and it says DOT3 fluid. However DOT 4 was used.

It seems they are compatible anyway.

Being hydraulic I cant see anywhere for play to be taken up. There is about 2 inches of free travel in the clutch pedal but no where to adjust it out it seems
Logged

MK1

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2006, 11:11:18 PM »

Again based on the CJ, the rod which goes from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm is adjustable.
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2006, 07:01:54 AM »

Cheers Mark
Will have a look later today and see if it's adjustable
Logged

Mike Pavelin

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2006, 08:52:18 AM »

There's no adjustment on an XJ clutch.
Logged

trent

  • Club Member
  • Forum Member
  • *
  • Guru: 0
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 811
(No subject)
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2006, 03:58:43 PM »

They can be a bastard to bleed, have you thoroughly bled the system?
Logged
I like beer.....i use my jeep to collect more beer all the time!

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2006, 04:17:22 PM »

I've done half a bottle of clutch fluid on it.
The symptom of low biting pedal still says to me that it's air in the system.

Maybe I should try it again before going the clutch route!
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2006, 10:05:38 AM »

Well the saga continues.

After repeated attempts of bleeding the clutch the grub screw on the slave cylinder has given out and now the fluid just pee's out!

Maybe this was the problem?

Trying to see if I can get one seperately as you can with master cylinder :evil:
Logged

Plum

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2006, 12:18:58 PM »

Quote from: "trent"
They can be a bastard to bleed, have you thoroughly bled the system?


Hope u dont mind me puttin me two penneth worth in but if its spongy then your either pushin it out fluid that is,  an youve allready said no leaks so theres only one other answere an thats air . . . . . . . your just gonna av to bleed it again  :roll:

sorry . . . . . . . .
Logged

Tank

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2006, 10:22:56 PM »

May be wrong and i am first to admit if i am,but some systems,mainly referring to brakes,but clutches i guess are just as bad,cant be bled successfully without the aid of a pressurised kit.I remember my dad,god rest his soul,trying to bleed the brakes on a BMW many years ago and no matter how many times he bled them,peddle always went spongey.Bleed kits were a relatively new thing then,but anyway he ended up having to buy one and straight away it cured the problem......just a thought
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #14 on: July 13, 2006, 07:34:20 AM »

These clutch cylinders dont have a bleed nipple just a grub screw and a hole so i couldn't use a kit.

However I need a new slave cylinder now as the threads stripped. I took it to a motorbiken shop to see if he could helicoil it and he split the body of the screw shft from top to bottom.

On look out for s/h one now as being out of work means finances are rather tight for buying a new one.

Waiting on some ebayers to come back to me
Logged

Dingo

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #15 on: July 13, 2006, 10:23:28 PM »

I thought the master and slave came as one sealed kit? :smt102
Logged

rayc

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #16 on: July 14, 2006, 08:02:38 AM »

Contrary to popular belief they can be purchased separately :roll:
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Powered by EzPortal