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[Sam]

hi gang i need a bit of advice please. :oops:

any advice is welcome Ta

[tim_aka_tim]

hi gang i need a bit of advice please. :oops:

any advice is welcome Ta

If you lift too much, your front axle will stick out further on the right than the left as your track bar is joined to the frame and can only travel in an arc, thus pulling your axle to the right as you lower it. Solution - longer/adjustable track bar. Not such a problem on small lifts.

Extended brake lines - why? I got 4.5" of lift and just used relocating brackets.

Degree shims re-align your rear prop with the transfer case output shaft. They're shaped like a wedge of cheese and go between the spring and the axle, giving a few degrees kick back, which brings the propshaft back in line as you've lowered the axle/lifted the transfer case. If you've got no vibes from the prop, then you should be ok, though for a few quid, I'd do it anyway.

If you want some decent flex offroad, then youre gonna need some sway-bar disconnects.

[Sam]

cheers tim but im only going 2" so i was just thinking essential minimum requirements if any (well for now anyway untill ive done more overtime).

[greggmo]

your brake lines will be fine just undo the torx set pin that holds the bracket to the inner wing and pull it through carefully. dont need degree shims on the front as you have a coil spring set up and they cant be used anyway.

[ponyracer1]

Hey Sam,

Order some 2 deg shims just in case, no need for the adj track bar unless you have extra money to burn. Unhook the track bar, fit the spacer lift and DON"T TURN THE STEERING WHEEL. Raise the track bar back up in position and re drill another hole next to the old one. Then have a mate weld a reinforcement plate over the bracket as a brace.

It will all make sense when you start doing it. Save your money for a RE 4.5 lift, (comes with a HD adj track bar) let me know when you want to order one.

[JamesH]

I would suggest that you won't need to extend your front brake lines for a 2" lift, but relocating the existing bracket further down by carefully straigtening the 'Z' won't cost you anything if you do want to do it.

I think with 2" of lift also you may want to leave the trackbar until the lift is done and has been driven on for a couple of miles. It will then become clearer the exact offset you need to drill a new hole to re-align the front. It may not be far enough away from the original to do without welding a plate over.

You will need to adjust your draglink to straighten the sterring wheel after the lift. No parts though just sockets and some big mole grips or similar.

I wouldn't think you'll need degree shims for the rear on a 2" lift but if you are putting an order in somewhere you could get them as they are useful to have around if problems (vibrations) start.

I think that's about all you may encounter doing it. Just as general practice I would have plenty of WD40 or proper penetrating spray, some copper grease and loctite for re-assembly and some spare 8mm bolts for the bottom shock mounts. I think I also had to get a deep/long socket for the top shock mounts as my new ones had a long thread on them and the engine bay is too cluttered to use spanners.

Hope that helps. James  


P.S. Ponyracer - can you get good deals on the RE lifts, just the 4.5 or is your shipping just a lot cheaper being military?

[Sam]

well thanks everyone for the tips my questions are answered