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[rooneysfoot]

its my grand cherry 2.5 td 97

over the weekend i was driving on motorway between 75 and 85 mph when the temp gage went 2 max and the check gages light came on

i pulled over stopped engine lights went out n i allowed the truck 2 cool down ran it 4 2 days and it was normal until this morning when it did the same thing

can anyone give me any ideas of what it may be

[MuckShifter]

What did you check?? ie: drive belt, coolant level, oil level, etc?

[rooneysfoot]

i checked engine oil water levels and they was normal the only thing i noticed was that the water was bubbling away in the expansion bottle but i dont know if that is normal or not

but i have sat in traffic and it didnt over heat but the temp gage goes up between 75 n 85 mph

[MuckShifter]

Def not normal for coolant to boil/bubble up in expansion tank - worst scenario is you've got head gasket problems (compression escaping from blown gasket into cooling system) Alternate prob maybe thermostat stuck closed? Either way, be best to get it (cooling system) pressure checked @ your local garage/dealer/mate..whatever

[rooneysfoot]

ok mat i do have a new thermostat sat in my tool box r they easy 2 do

[MuckShifter]

Give me ten (eatin my tea) I'll pop out an ave a look - Take it it is the VM 2.5 TD?

[daggie]

cracked head(S) or headgasket
tis the devils own engine  

[MuckShifter]

Be sure to let your engine cool & drain the rad first!!!

Ok follow your top hose from the radiator back to the cylinder head, you'll see your thermostat housing connected to the coolant rail with four alan key/socket head screws - if they are corroded give em a good go on the threads with a wire brush & wd 40 (steel & ally dont like each other) I'm not sure whether there's a gasket or 'o' ring sealing the joint - you should be able to remove the housing without removing the top hose (silly chrysler clip) once the socket headed screws are removed you may have to give the housing a slight tap with a hammer shaft to break the seal, once the seals broken and housing removed you should see the thermostat sitting there in a recess...you may want too check if it's open or closed..if not sure boil the kettle & drop it in a pan of boiling water, you'll def see a result if it's working...If you've a hose pipe handy it may pay you to flush the system at this point..remove your bottom rad hose & insert the hose pipe in the thermostat(removed) housing & flush till the water runs clear out the bottom - I'm sure if I'm talkin' bo**cks here someone will set you straight...fit the new stat & give it a go!!!

[rooneysfoot]

ok ill give that a go n see what happens

[MuckShifter]

Ok chum - good luck, let us know how you get on

[greggmo]

just check that your rad is clear on the outside and free from mud. dont forget you got it pretty mucky at clyro. if the fins of the rad are blocked you will lose the cooling efficiency.

[Dave69]

i hate to say it but why do people pull over and switch the engine off, the viscous fan stops, the water flow stops and the engine then cooks itself. at least with the engine idling there is minimal load and the fan is pulling cooler air through the rad keeping the water at a stable temperature and starting to cool it. In the hight of summer when it's 25deg plus this might not help too much as it could cause a recirculation of hot air and reheat the water.

 if the engine is already blowing steam then it will make no difference what you do in regards to engine off or on.

If you dont want to strip the engine yet look of fleabay for some stuff called "K-Seal" this is added to the coolant and it forms a hard seal on any breaches in the head gasket. It is a constant repair systems but it does the trick while you sort funds for a proper repair.