Topic: Bleeding Brakes (Read 10323 times)

MK1 · « **on:** August 16, 2005, 05:36:42 PM »

I'm now having trouble bleeding up my brakes. Tried on Saturday and they switched between half a peddle, no peddle and pumping up to full peddle but dropping back. I have read Trent's post about his clutch and have priced up a pneumatic/vacuum bleeder and arranged to borrow a compressor.

I am not sure about the proportional/metering valve. Don't know if the plunger should be held in or out, and have no way of doing it. The 4wd catologue says to bleed the front first to centralise the valve. Is this right?

It could also be a knackered master cylinder as it has sat dry for a couple of months.

Any advice or suggestions, coz it's pissing me off!!

toad · « **Reply #1 on:** August 16, 2005, 07:03:06 PM »

try this sequence first without a pneumatic bleeder! n/s/r, o/s/r, n/s/f, o/s/f i was allways taught to bleed the furthest from the master cyl first! also does your jeep have a load proportion valve fitted if it does you might find theres a bleed nipple on it bleed that first before rear cyls hope this helps regards toad!

horobi · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2005, 07:52:23 AM »

The plunger on the valve is supposed to be held in....

I have a cut away diagram of the proportioning valve somewhere and yes, in theory if you bleed the front brakes first it should hold the plunger back anyway but if they are even a little off I can't see it working effectively.

You are not alone in having bleeding troubles....I remember reading a massive post on one of the american forums about it. It looks like some Jeeps are just stuborn!!

:roll:

Bubba · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2005, 09:46:50 PM »

just bleed the fronts first get that rite and there will no probs

MK1 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 20, 2005, 07:11:12 PM »

Bled the brakes with the vacuum bleeder, absolute doddle. Still no pedal.

Stripped the master cylinder. You guessed it, it's fucked. ](*,) ](*,)

trent · « **Reply #5 on:** August 20, 2005, 07:41:21 PM »

The master cylinders don't like being left empty for any period of time, but at least you've found the problem now :wink:

MK1 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 20, 2005, 08:22:49 PM »

Just rang 4WD to order a new master cylinder for $69.99 (£39). The guy quoted $57 (£32) shipping. :shock:

Surely that can't be right?

Working on $100 equals £100 in rip off Britain, then that seems expensive once the taxes etc. are added.

Any thoughts?

trent · « **Reply #7 on:** August 20, 2005, 08:45:00 PM »

Mate,
i just paid 85 odd quid for a clutch master from rip off britain, it would have cost $65 in the states. I would have thought your brake master would come to at least double that from the uk, so i think it probably still works out better :lol: .

Mike Pavelin · « **Reply #8 on:** August 20, 2005, 08:58:13 PM »

Hey, Trent. Sorted that clutch out yet?

trent · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2005, 10:07:43 PM »

No :shock: but when i looked this evening the gearbox was still on the floor! so i guess i'll have to crack on?

horobi · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2005, 10:47:31 AM »

Here's one for ya.......

My clutch master cylinder leaks a little from the rubber seal on the plunger..... the rest of it is fine..... a new rubber seal and it'll be good as new... but you can't buy just the seal/rubber washer!!!!!! Crazy! I don't need to buy a new cylinder and can't afford £90 or whatever they are.

Anyone know a good place to get rubber dooddahhs?!?

:?:

MK1 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2005, 07:13:34 PM »

I can only assume it's because the cylinder is relatively cheap to buy but heavy to ship. :smt102

Ordered one from Lighthouse today, worked out a little cheaper than 4WD once the charges etc. were added.

Author Topic: Bleeding Brakes (Read 10323 times)

MK1

Bleeding Brakes

toad

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horobi

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Bubba

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MK1

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trent

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MK1

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trent

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Mike Pavelin

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trent

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horobi

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MK1

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