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[Bulldog67]

I have managed to score a 4" suspension lift for the Nutter ( ) so now need a 2" body lift to squeeze in the 35's, so rather than shipping from the states has anyone got any good cheats? I have read in the states of doods using ice hocket pucks and stuff like that, anyone used anything easily available and found it worked?

As usual, cheers

[ferretjuggler]

Easy

Weld 2" extensions onto the chassis mounts then use standard mount rubbers.

Tank has experience of this system on the Diahatsu F50 he had

Trouble is, once you disturb the standard mounts, you can't re-use them (unless you're a total cretin) so the cost of new standard mounts has got to be factored in.

[Tank]

Mine are a lot taller of the F50,but an easy way of doing it,and pretty cheap

[isle of man]

Anything more than a 1.25" body lift in my honest opinion is dangerous!!!!

[ferretjuggler]

Anything more than a 1.25" body lift in my honest opinion is dangerous!!!!

 

Tanks is made from 6"x4" steel box section, welded tranversely ontop of the chassis at all mounting points.

TBH, not ever having driven anything with a body lift, I'm wondering how it can be any more dangerous than a suspension lift

I thought the whole idea was to raise the shell while keeping the CofG low by NOT raising the chassis/engine etc

[isle of man]

Well - it just so happenes  I have seen a Wrangler with a stiletto body lift - the said jimmychoo Wrangler tub after the RTA was as bent as a ££££ 10bob note!!!! But this is only my experience but some other MOFO'r could shed some other board enlightenment or gesture on the said fact!!!


Trust me it does make a difference.

 

[ferretjuggler]

I dont thnk I'd want to do a body lift the way the yanks do 'em TBH.

A 4" lift on rubber blocks would seem to me to be a good way to simulate driving a gaint blancmange

FFS some of the Rednecks on the IFSJA even put coil springs on the body mounts so that the shell doesn't stop the chassis from twisting at full articulation

I'm thinking more of a modified chassis with reworked body mounts if I had to.

Beyond the capability of anyone in the US apparently, but I can't see why the hell not

[Bulldog67]

a hockey puck is 1", so that on its own may be enuff if I (technically not actually me) with the sawzall and stick some XJ flares on it

or, can i stack 2 pucks?

pucks are very cheap 

or I suppose i coud see if Norm will donate his 4" body lift and cut them in half

[isle of man]

Well - I'm not worthy of the mini-skirt-stack-em-high-crew and wait with anticipation for the said vision!!!!

[Nosebolt]

just buy some nylon bar , cut to length and drill.

something like this should be enough to make 10 spacers then just need some longer bolts

[Bulldog67]

Well - I'm not worthy of the mini-skirt-stack-em-high-crew and wait with anticipation for the said vision!!!!

TBH i would have preferred 6" suspension lift, but cant turn down a 4" suspension lift found in this country, hens teeth and all that

and there is a large body of FSJ doods that claim 4" suspension + 2" body lift is a far better option that the 6" suspension lift, personally have no idea but will be able to report back when the Bastard on a 6" lift and the Nutter on 4" + 2" are actually done, altho the Nutters are already run in whereas the 6" is virtually new so will need a few trips out to soften up a bit

[Bulldog67]

just buy some nylon bar , cut to length and drill.

something like this should be enough to make 10 spacers then just need some longer bolts

cheers dood, altho prob more expensive than pre-cut ice hockey pucks

did you notice owt adverse with Tonkas body lift?

[isle of man]

Ade my good man!!!! After many years I have arrived at the conclusion it's about stuff NOT about LIFT!!!!!

[Nosebolt]

tonka was acquired with body and spring lift, 35's and no sway bars, so can only compare it to yella, and while there is a noticeable difference, not so much that a change in driving style can't compensate for.

as for the ice hockey pucks, do you know what grade material they are made from and are you sure they wont crack under stress, your only talking about £2.20 per 2" spacer with that nylon and it will take the abuse

[Bulldog67]

and I will bow to your superior knowledge Mr H, but at stock height i def get stuck due to grounding out

and more importantly (to me   ) a FSJ was built to run with 35's, just looks so much better, so for the off roading im gonna be doing (ie just hanging out, having a larf, heavy right boot) a lift is v high on my list

i did notice how ground hugging the buggy is tho  

[isle of man]

£2.20 per 2" spacer with that nylon and it will take the abuse

I concur....

[isle of man]

and I will bow to your superior knowledge Mr H, but at stock height i def get stuck due to grounding out

and more importantly (to me   ) a FSJ was built to run with 35's, just looks so much better, so for the off roading im gonna be doing (ie just hanging out, having a larf, heavy right boot) a lift is v high on my list

i did notice how ground hugging the buggy is tho  

Ade - the Buggy has 12" of ORI and 44" of Bogger this behaves as a Virgin - the Mafia has 14" /16" coilover 37" Bogger and as such flops over first chance it gets!!!!


Think about it.

[Nosebolt]

have you thought about sticking with the 4" lift and raising the arches 2"?

[isle of man]

have you thought about sticking with the 4" lift and raising the arches 2"?

Ahhhh logic!!!

[Bulldog67]

yeah i have, and TBH MJS doesnt seem v keen on trying to loosen off 30yr old rusty body mounts, so it may have to be an option, it just makes me a bit twitchy, dunno why, happy to hack away at the CJ but i suppose its coz there is no aftermarket flare option to bolt on

if i go that route then i will park it at MJS and just say do whatever needs to be done but i want no part of it  

[ferretjuggler]

Roast the mounting bolts with an oxy-fuel torch

Keep a fire extinguisher and working fire hose close by

Messy and mucho choking black smoke but ultimately very satisfying

[Bulldog67]

  the trimming is having more appeal 

actually it does, as the Bastard's size will carry the looks of 6" lift far better, and I suppose I could always look at a shackle lift thrown in if the 35's were a squeeze

[isle of man]

Squeeze!!! Squeeze!!! Surely this is not the THONG of tubby tucks?


Cut-n-thrust is the answer.

[ferretjuggler]

GRP front wings with bigger/slightly wider arches but still in a J truck style.

New steel inner wheelarches fabricated and welded into the shell at rear, then covered with new, oversize GRP outer arches made in the style of a Cherokee Widetrack, but errr.....a bit bigger.

Bigger tyres thus accomodated without raising C of G muchly.

Bulldog is now running away from PC, screaming!

[Dave69]

i'd only use hockey pucks for bump stop use, the engineering nylon rod like NB has listed is more stable to harsh conditions and wont deform.

As Mr.H says lift is not everything, stick with the 4" and minor wing trimming which can be done to suit the vehicle rather than red neck butchery, and fit extended bumpstops to stop the upward deflection into the wheel arch.