Birty Dastards Jeep Club
Tech Forum => Workshop => Topic started by: willo on February 21, 2012, 07:20:50 PM
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So, as many of you know, I have been playing around with some winch challenges in my 98 TJ, and this year I have stepped up the level at which I am competing, so in order to compete at a higher level, I must also make my Jeep stronger and more reliable.
In a bid to keep my many threads of advice on this, axle that, I thought it best to start a thread similar to Wildwood's 1 ton continues, as lets face it, I may almost may as well be starting again. I had thought I had a reasonably well sorted jeep, but having actually done some events, I now realise the level I need to be at.
My main focus this year is the King of the Valley's in July. I am steadily working through the safety list and technical regs....
So......as we speak, My new Axle/s are winging their way back to the wight isle, I sincerely hope that I have made the correct decision here, and that they are ok. I have had to take a step backwards in order to move upwards in strength on the front, so am now without my RCV front shafts and ARB, BUT.......I have got a Ford F150 HP Dana 44 front axle, with discs and Hi Steer on its way. As part of the deal, I also have an FSJ Dana 44 rear axle with lockrite, both these axles are 4.11 ratio. And I have a set of 4 6 x5.5 PCD wheels to fit the axles.
As I have mentioned on another thread, I have an event 25/26 <March and there's Birty's Breakout the following weekend that I'd like to try to get to, so I have a bit of a quandary as to the best way to progress at the moment....
Your thoughts are appreciated
This is my Jeep in October 2011.
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having been to a challenge event this past weekend i can see what your up against
some guys are chucking lots of £££££'s into it for sure :icon_winkle:
but i got to say, good winches front and back and maybe even centre will get you most places :greggmo:
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Axles turn up tomorrow, its gonna be interesting to see how much wider a) a F150 D44 front axle is than a D30 front and b) how much wider is a FSJ D44 rear, compared to a TJ D44 rear.
Presuming that the new axles are ok, and I haven't been taken for a mug, (I'm sure this isn't the case), then the whole conundrum begins. Perhaps I should mention where I want to be with my axles and drive train when I have finished:
Rear: 4 link double triangulated long arm with 5" stretch, ARB or Lockrite perhaps, 4.88 cromo shafts, not too fussed which axle, I reckon my TJ D44 as built is stronger, but may be too narrow, wrong wheel pattern etc
Front: + 2" front stretch, Clayton copy 2/4 link y arm long arm, ARB 4.88 RCV shafts all with Johnny joint/Clevite bushing
Transfer box Dana300
This is what I have a choice of:
The front axle I will be fitting is F150 HP D44 4.11, stock shafts,brackets to suit clayton type rotated y 2/4 link front, and Wheel stud 6 x 5.5
For the rear I have a choice of:
My current TJ D44 with ropey ARB, 4.56, Alloy USA shafts and SSBC brakes - brackets to suit RE short arm wheel stud 5x4.5 or 5x5.5
FSJ D44 with 4.11, lockrite, stock shafts, drums and brackets to suit home fab Long arm/ 3 link rear oh and wheel stud 6x5.5
At Home I have spare:
D44 ARB
D44 4.56 standard rotation Ring, can't seem to find the pinion
wheels, I have 1 set of 5 x 5.5 ( not mine but I can borrow for a while)
1 set of 6x5.5
2 sets of 5x4.5
And seeing as I got till 24 March to get this all sorted, so I can compete, and the D300 is going in at the same time, and I got (until some stuff sells) about £800 to chuck at it, what would you do?
Oh, the only other thing I have is a bare D30 standard case, with no carrier, but will have brakes and steering gear.
If I needed to build that up, just so as to compete, I have shafts, D30 ARB, not sure about R&P(but then if I'm gonna buy a R&P, I may just as well get a 4.56 Reverse cut and stick it in the HPD44 ), wheel bearings etc so that's a possibility, I think I'd probably have to use the arb as just a carrier, as with standard shafts and simex and my right foot, its all liable to go a bit pete tong. And I'd have to get spendy on something I'm gonna ditch.........grrr
what do peoples think?
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use the f150 & fsj 44's with the 4.11 ratio to start with, don't fanny around with the axles until you have the truck on its wheels given your short timescale
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use the f150 & fsj 44's with the 4.11 ratio to start with, don't fanny around with the axles until you have the truck on its wheels given your short timescale
yeah, that was my sort of thinking, not sure how 35's will be with 4.11 offroad, but heh! The only other think, is that the Big axles are bracketed for clayton copy long arms, and they came off an xj.
So I'll have to get the long arms sorted, I have been in contact with a uk supplier for JJ's and jamb nuts and threaded inserts......
So then my thoughts are, do I fit an ARB to the f150, or not bother as it is using standard (afaik) shafts, also how will the rear cope on standard shafts, a lockrite and simex?
See there goes my head again, why don't I leave my strong TJ rear on, with short arm still attached, then fit just the F150 front, long arm it and stick a locker in it, and see if I can modify the wheel pattern to suit 5x4.5 or 5x 5.5 - doh, but then i'd have to re-gear my rear with the 4.11 or buy a new reverse cut 4.56 for the front.........oh ffs :003:
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Fantastic mate, I'm just starting out on upgrading my 98 tj as well. I will follow your build with great interest and probaby copy the mods that work for you! I intend to start the winch challenges Next year or later this year if funds allow.
Plenty of photos and info please sir!
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with upgrading your axles etc and wheels to 35's where do you see your weak point will be? get heavy on the right foot what will break first?
bullet proof axles and prop leads to transmission failure.
get the axles in std format first and rolling to see how it performs then increase in strength as planned
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This is as Gasser said - you only move the fuse to another location!!
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Just found 3G again as am at work. I am tempted at the moment to run with my stronger tj rear ( as IOM pointed out somewhere) and regear it with the 4.11 out of the fsj rear, at least then i wil have a axle that can be locked and will hold up to the simex. Then the question is which rim to put the spare on :017: i reckon a front rim, as i have bust a bead on the front before but never the back. At this stage i'm gonna leave my tyres pumped up as i dont want EVEN more grip.
Or do i compete with the 35" MT's?
IOM what do you see as your weak link on the mafia?
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For the Mafia it's the clutch - I have little option after driveing the useless centre force (either on or off) set up - in my opinion fooooking TAT for off road use.
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For the Mafia it's the clutch - I have little option after driveing the useless centre force (either on or off) set up - in my opinion fooooking TAT for off road use.
Clutch :icon_eek: feck, thats not an in the field fix. Wonder if anyone makes any sacrificial bits to go between the propshaft and the pinion.....
Dave69, i have previously been running cromo all round and 35's at the moment i have taken a step backwards in shaft strength and am worried how the stabdard shafts on the front are gonna cope with simex.
I wonder if anyone knows the strength difference between standard D30 front shafts and F150 d44 shafts, as i know all too well that locked standard D30 shafts and simex with a good measure if my right foot equals snappy half shafts/ yokes/ uj's. And at the moment i haven't got any spare F150 D44 shafts..... Wonder what else uses them, or where i can get some...
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Just an idea but would it pay you in the long run to miss the event in march and get the build done? Do it once do it right etc........ not what i'd do i admit but just an idea.
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Yes, there is that, hmmmmmmnn. It'd be a shame to loose the entry fee, not sure i'd get my money back. Plus its good practise as i'll be starting with another new wb this year.
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I suspect you're going to need 6 months to a year to see this through.
Surely the fuse point should be the tyres?
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4 weeks :icon_eek: Now thats a deadline.
Are you sure you want to pin a deadline on a build like this?
I cant see it happening, that quick? Just too many spanners to throw in the works methinks
I would be thinking, get the Truck ready for the March events, with as little fuss possible. Then strip down and rebuild....
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4 weeks :icon_eek: Now thats a deadline.
Are you sure you want to pin a deadline on a build like this?
I cant see it happening, that quick? Just too many spanners to throw in the works methinks
I would be thinking, get the Truck ready for the March events, with as little fuss possible. Then strip down and rebuild....
I think you have the wrong end of the stick. I have an event in 4 weeks that i really want to go to as all booked and paid, and i need to get the jeep back to a reasonable spec, so perhaps just front axle fitted, at the mo and no locker to tempt fate.
With the state of my wallet and the list of mods i want to do, i can quite easily see myself into next year, i am not setting a deadline, i just need to be entered into stuff itherwise my attention will drift off to other stuff
Having re read what i copy and pasted, i realise i worded it wrong. Got to get it all sirted yes, but not by the 24th march. I just need to be up and running with something that will work. Apologies
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I think you have the wrong end of the stick. I have an event in 4 weeks that i really want to go to as all booked and paid, and i need to get the jeep back to a reasonable spec, so perhaps just front axle fitted, at the mo and no locker to tempt fate.
With the state of my wallet and the list of mods i want to do, i can quite easily see myself into next year, i am not setting a deadline, i just need to be entered into stuff itherwise my attention will drift off to other stuff
Ahh! I see.....
So the F150/FSJ axle are a straight swap? Sounds like thats the best option as previously mentioned for your time scale.
When are ya gonna Skip throwing Money at the TJ and Build a Buggy, you know it'll make sense :003: What say you Mr Henry :greggmo:
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No, i still have my TJ Dana44 4.56 alloy usa arb and ssbc rear....
Hmm buggy:-) thats a nice idea, but not the one for me. At least with the TJ i can still take Mrs Willo out for Sunday lunch...
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I think with what your planning, keeping the TJ road legal is gonna be tough.
Bet the TJ becomes a fulltime trailer queen in the end :icon_biggrin:
Vicious circle, modding a stocker. Can only get so far until the Buggy thing takes hold.
Birtys crazy hippy dude Mr Wildwoods build demostrates this well :icon_super:
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Thank you Mr Warthog. Was just going to say the same.............. I went trailer queen so I could rag it both days of (for example) Cheapfest not tread lightly the first day then a bit harder then bimble on the Sunday cos I know its home time pack up soon and the breakdown services are not as understanding as they were?
Also after all that wedge on rubber you don't want to leave it on the A1/A14 M1 or wherever.
I would patch up your TJ for this year or next event.................
Then ................and I know this is a biggy..............get another TJ YJ don't matter which and build from the ground up.............
This is what I am doing .........rather than feck with the 1 ton and have no wheels for the next many months.............
I am Building from the TJ chassis I have aquired................... although I am still wondering whether full body or tube and slim like IOM's buggy......keeping it as narrow as the chassis?
There you go that gives you food for thought................
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One comment from above that you might not need to address - you say the front D44 is bracketed for clayton style Y-link long arms and was on an XJ. The clayton Y-link fits to stock brackets on the axle and the XJ and TJ have the same brackets so it should just bolt in.
I'd get the 2 new axles under the Jeep, as they are, with a set of 35s on the wheels and drive it a bit, on and off road and just check for any minor problems. Hopefully this will be a quick stage and then let you know or certain what gearing to go for, lockers, shafts etc. (I think you can go 5.xx with D44s and if mostly for offroad I'd go DEEP) JeepSpeed XJs do 5.13/5.29/5.38 gears for 33" tyres!
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Axles and roof have arrived Blues
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TJ is coming of age and ready to accept its new 'man axles', which are about 10" wider....
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that's a big fuck off garage ya got dood :greggmo:
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that's a big fuck off garage ya got dood :greggmo:
You can see about a third of it in that pic! Lol
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so if its rainin in June we can head back to yours for a warehouse rave instead of the bbq
:dance: :682: :7505: :celebrate:
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:icon_biggrin: I'm not sayin notin :003:
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so if its rainin in June we can head back to yours for a warehouse rave instead of the bbq
:dance: :682: :7505: :celebrate:
as Dutch will testify, it'd be a bit hard to fit just me in my garage.......it needs a bit of a sort out, no the Jeep is hiding at the garage wot built my cage...
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so, the new front axle has got a spindle type affair going on at the outer end of the stub axle, woukd it be fair to assume that if I fitted freewheelin hubs mile marker or wugged widge, there woukld be a sacrificial bit in there that would go first in the event of a breakage? much the same as the warn fused hubs, which I believe they don't make anymore
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MMMMmmmmmmmmm look what was waiting for me when I got home from work: :ace:
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thats alot of johnnys :hysterical:
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thats alot of johnnys :hysterical:
still could do with another 4 but they can wait, so as to let my wallet breathe :icon_twisted:
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16= full set upper and lower, see your plan :greggmo:
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Smokin joints!
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Ya done better than me; I came home to a parcelforce bill for customs for my HID upgrades for both FSJ's :011: bastards :jpshakehead:
First time I have been caught usin the same old ruse for bout dozen occassions so cant complain too much :greggmo:
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Ya done better than me; I came home to a parcelforce bill for customs for my HID upgrades for both FSJ's :011: bastards :jpshakehead:
First time I have been caught usin the same old ruse for bout dozen occassions so cant complain too much :greggmo:
I also have a customs note, for my Cockring clocking ring.....which reminds me
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MMMMmmmmmmmmm look what was waiting for me when I got home from work: :ace:
[attachment=1]
EEEERRRRR I have a couple of box's of these spare :icon_winkle:
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Right then.... this is for Willo cos I am inept and couldn't post a pic in PM :jpshakehead:
I found the bits in the workshop and all the details in the "Big Fat 1Ton File" of what I spent and never added up :jpshakehead:
The pitman arm is about an inch longer so will give you back the lock that I lost when doing it on the 30 with the terraflex knuckles.
The TRE has been drilled for a 1 ton end.
The weld in bungs are left thread and right thread and the TREs are 1 ton and also L and R threads.
and here is the pic :icon_super:
[attachment=1]
Price I paid is as follows
Tube inserts LH 7/8 18T £22
RH 7/8 18T £22
TRE 1 TON LH 7/8 18T £30
TRE 1 TON RH 7/8 18T £30
1100-M-DT
Pitman ARM
Drill tapered for 1ton £66
Total £170
Obviously I got raped for US shipping and shit this end but hey ho..... postage to you included if ya need/want em
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some more bits arrived :greggmo:
[attachment=1]
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titanium petrol cap surround?
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titanium petrol cap surround?
you are a numpty :greggmo:
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very lovable with it tho :098:
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titanium petrol cap surround?
you are a numpty :greggmo:
Nincumpoop :hysterical:
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clocking ring for by the looks dana 300
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Mr Driller Killer was out today:
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Top tip......... (probably one of many)
Laminate some steel at the cut line with glass fibre to reduce the fragility and wobble and then hang your soft top rear window as the help to keep you warm and dry, or a duster bikini rear deck window thingy if ya got one....
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Top tip......... (probably one of many)
Laminate some steel at the cut line with glass fibre to reduce the fragility and wobble and then hang your soft top rear window as the help to keep you warm and dry, or a duster bikini rear deck window thingy if ya got one....
Good idea thanks :023:
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Have been looking at builder bits, and found this:
Wrex Racing (http://wrexracing.co.uk/4x4%20offroad%20Wrex%20Build/4x4%20offroad%20Wrex%20Tabs,%20Gussets,%20Brackets%20-%20Mounts?limit=100)
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nice site,
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Have been looking at builder bits, and found this:
Wrex Racing (http://wrexracing.co.uk/4x4%20offroad%20Wrex%20Build/4x4%20offroad%20Wrex%20Tabs,%20Gussets,%20Brackets%20-%20Mounts?limit=100)
Yeah, so I was chatting with Dan from Wrex racing last night and it transpires he will be importing all sorts of jeep stuff, and is already dealing with Randy's, he also mentioned he will be doing Jeep axle work too, so if anyone is in need and is in the oxfordshire region, give him a call
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ya didnt tell me all that info this mornin, might have to give him a call see if he is a cheaper route for the Molotov regear
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Close to you is FTE down at Wickford on the way to Sarfend................ Steve .give him a call on 07973198483 done 4 axle regears for me over the years.......... used to be and don't quote me................ :hysterical: £200 cash per axle............. but you gotto take the axle off and take it to him. :icon_twisted:
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[attachment=1] :icon_super:
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front teardown has started :icon_biggrin:
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50 mm od x 38 mm id *cough* Gas pipe ordered for control arms, 5mm box section ordered for new front part of chassis for fwd +5" stretch, not sure what to do with the rad mind, any ideas? Fook it off to the back and put the winch where it was, kinda in the hole where the grill was? or bumpstop so the pumpkin doesn't hit it
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Seen a few (Pirate rigs) that have done the winch behind the grill shell but it was a small Warn RC ...looks good but not what you want for a challenge truck. The twin motor rig wont fit.
Gas pipe?? Also known as schedule 40 I believe.
You can use 4mm on the chassis extension cos that was the thickness of the original (on the YJ anyway) twas what I used.... :icon_super:
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That seminar has really sunk its teeth into your creativity vibe :icon_super:
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Gas pipe.........
thought I would do my research before opening gob!
Gas pipe or schedule 40 has a low carbon content (fragile) and has a psi yield of 30,000...ERW has a yield of 32,000
gas pipe is cheap but don't use it on stress areas obviously not suspension..you might be ok with the tie rod but a length of DOM will sustain knocks and bends and stuff cos its psi is twice as much.....
Pipe within pipe is not as strong as the combined wall strength that it might share with a single individual pipe.
Just a heads up ..but hey maybe I'm wrong.......just thought it wise to point out............ I'm not having a 'Pirate' like flame or nuttin :icon_twisted:
Tis all in this piece :icon_super:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm#MaterialRecommendation (http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm#MaterialRecommendation)
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Thanks WW. The problem was sourcing tube in anything that had an id of 45.5mm and a wall thickness of 6-7-8mm.
I found some chromoly that was close but is near £100 for 3 foot :icon_eek:
I dont know perhaps sourcing pipe in the uk ain't like the states where it seams. Lol! That everyone can weld to aircraft standards and the is a metal shop on every street corner....
Also i guess the time lumit factor isn't helping. So we'll give it a go, and if it don't work, we'll try somet else, by which time my wallet may have recovered and i'll br able to afford some t45.
So for the gas pipe we will be turning the threade bungs down 3.5 mm or so to suit
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Before you go down that route........
My terraflex hi-steer kit came with big effin fat 10mm wall octagonal alloy tie and link rods and they take 1 ton tre
they are arrow straight and apparently can bend 2-3 inches and regain shape (springback)
I wheeled em hard and no probs
The steering link I shortened both ends to allow it to fit the wide wide 1 ton and big tre so should be correct length for yours.
The tie rod is not altered so you can cut it a bit........ they are threaded left and right and threads go in a long way.
Just a thought.....yours if ya want.... £50 do it?...... Might have to charge ya postage cos they aint filled with helium :icon_biggrin:
Here's a pic.
[attachment=1]
oops articulation???
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stickiest tyres in the world :003:
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The landy boys reckon they are using gas pipe no issues. You gotta remember that uk froadin aint the same as the stuff in the states.
If it dont work at least i can say we tried :icon_rolleyes:
And having looked at charts n that its sched 80, which is somewhat stronger than 40
http://www.mycheme.com/technicaldata/standard-pipe-sizes.html (http://www.mycheme.com/technicaldata/standard-pipe-sizes.html)
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as well as the cost of materials, remember to factor in the cost of doing the job twice
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as well as the cost of materials, remember to factor in the cost of doing the job twice
Sorry but i ain't gonna get on the road if i wait around to get that elusive ideal piece of tube, unless of course you have some better suggestions :017:
Personally i'd rather learn from mistakes and at least had a go and been out driving it to proove i am wrong rather than scouring the internet for some bit of unobtainium only purchaseable in uzbekistanian ferrets on the 3rd night of michaelmass in outer mongolia......
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There you go Willo big fat rods....... 38mm or 1.5" and 10mm wall thickness and hexagonal (not octagonal)
The TRE are offset as you can see and fit a Dana 30 tapered knuckle hole. The threads will accept a 1 ton TRE which is why I shortened the steering link..... If tie rod not long enough for you use 1 tons TRE to increase length substantially.
They also 'Mer Up' quite well which should interest some on the forum :icon_twisted:
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Solid bar, track rods can be straightened easier in the field, my 2p's worth :icon_winkle:
Im liking those hexalicious one's though....
Be good to see this truck in the Flesh, Willo :greggmo:
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A bit more progress today:
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This Used to fit in that gap:
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So look what also turned up:
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Gonna need some help i.d ing, so come along all you big axle specialologists, here is the info I took from it today:
43133
Rm42
3000 or 30COD
10 bolt diff cover
6.5 " from centre of axle to bottom of pumpkin
8x6.5" rims
61" between drum flange and 64 " middle wheel to wheel
[attachment=2][attachment=3]
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Yup, I concur, it's definitely a big axle
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Yup, I concur, it's definitely a big axle
feckin lot of help you are :greggmo: :003:
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Ford ???
F250 or 350 ???
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9" Ford
F250 or 350
well I reckoned f250 or f350, but was thinking on it being a dana 60/70/80, as there is no unboltable 3rd member...
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Try THIS (http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml)
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Try THIS (http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml)
thanks, according to those pics, it looks like dana 60/70 as there is no 80 to look at, interestingly said axle is only 1" closer to the ground than my d44 which is the difference between 33's and 35's
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Tis a 70 but cover off and measure ring gear........ you'll be wanting discs instead of those heavy drums..... :icon_super:
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May help
http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm (http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm)
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Try THIS (http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml)
thanks, according to those pics, it looks like dana 60/70 as there is no 80 to look at, interestingly said axle is only 1" closer to the ground than my d44 which is the difference between 33's and 35's
A wee trim needed on the case then? Seen it on Pirate...
Didnt you look at these axles Mr Wildwood?
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May help
http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm (http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm)
funny, I was just looking at that page, great minds n all that :icon_super:
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have a look around the pinion nose Webb's should have the axle no cast on it
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have a look around the pinion nose Webb's should have the axle no cast on it
Thanks I'll have another look later, and measure the ring gear/ see what is stamped on it
Looking through the Dana 70 bible on Pirate last night I got a funny feeling (knowing my luck) that it could be a Dana 61, only time will tell :jpshakehead:
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only ever seen a 61 with flanged shafts looks like the 70 i fitted in the j20
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Went back over to drop off some wheels before work this morning and had another look at the pumpkin
:ace: :icon_super: :ace:
Clearly stamped on an inside flange 70-2U...... Seems my luck is changing! Just gotta work out how to convert dana44 front spindles to 8 lug OR convert the rear to 6x6.5
Eithout Birty's for sure i would not be at this stage. Thanks
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He who dares wins Rodders :greggmo:
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Ford used 8x6.5" lug patterns on the F250 dana 44's so a eight bolt pattern will not be a hard swap for the front.
If I am correct this thing is up in Scotland and will have a TTB dana 44 front. The housing will be a waste but I think all the hubs and spindles will bolt straight accross. Plus it may possably come with a Dana 60 rear (or Ford 10.25).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230755406256?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230755406256?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619)
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I just had a quick look and I am not sure how easy it is to change over using the Ford TTB axle parts. It looks as if the spindles and everything are different but you maybe able to use the entire knuckles outboard but not sure.
I did find some other info that maybe helpful.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html (http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html)
Swapping the Knuckles Out for high steer and 8 on 6.5" wheel bolt pattern: (8 bolts = 3/4 ton style) You've 3 options:
Option 1: Chevy parts: Grab a Chevy or Full Size Jeep Dana 44 knuckles and outer axle shaft. To convert these to 8 on 6.5" you'll need to find a 3/4 ton disk brakes Chevy truck (note some Chevy 1 tons ran a Dana 44 from 73-78). It can be running a Dana 44 (73-80) or a Chevy 10 Bolts (77-87) as these parts interchange! From the 3/4 ton truck you'll need the Spindle, Caliper mounting plate, Caliper, disk brake Rotor, Hub with lug nuts and lockout. Also grab the outer axle shaft, as all Chevy Dana 44's with the 5-297x style u-joint run the same outer shaft. Now you've the parts, make it work!! This option is harder to source parts.
Option 2: Run Ford 3/4 ton Knuckles Out, however you can only use Ford 3/4 ton brakes with Ford knuckles. This option will cost more, year for to source 3/4 ton Ford parts 76-79. Do note 76-77 is a larger hub and lock-out that is difficult to find. 77.5-79 runs the same lock-out as a 1/2 tons and is easier to find. See my Dana 44 article for more info between different types of Ford Dana 44 axles.
Option 3: Run Dodge or IHC 3/4 ton stuff. Here is how... Who am I kidding, I have no clue on Dodge stuff ;~) IHC see note in above.
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pulled the lid off the diff today, it has an open diff but by christ its feckin huge :icon_eek:
written on it is:
3 2890 Dana D 34840 P8L08 41 10, would I be correct in thinking its 4.10 ratio?
[attachment=1]
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found it:
6lug-8lug (http://coloradok5.com/8lugconversion.shtml)
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Take a look at Boyce Equipment in the states. They handle quite a bit of ex military equipment.
Maybe you should go with a set of 2 1/2 ton Rockwells!
http://www.boyceequipment.com/ (http://www.boyceequipment.com/)
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Nice axle find! I cant remember if you can shave the bottom of a 70 pumkin, but dont see why not. Hell i have watched one guy spin the shaft and another hold a grinder to the ring gear :icon_super: Not like you dont have some extra to give up! lol
If you are even slightly concerned with the control arms - sleeve them with another tube. on mine i used seamed sleeved with unseamed. cause your 100% right - some fool is hiding all the tube in the UK.
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So i pulled apart my D44 front spindle at the weekend, so as to measure something for Mr RCV. I have borrowed a spindle nut socket off Delk, whilst mine is on order. However the hub nuts that are on my spindles are no where near the size of the socket, I wonder if anyone has any ideas what is going on here
[attachment=1]
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I may have sent you the wrong socket. I will have some spare spindle nuts at home I will measure this evening and I will look to see if I have a different socket in my box.
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Willo, sorry about that it looks like I sent you my socket for a Dana 60. How soon do you need the one for the Dana 44?
This looks more like it.
[attachment=1]
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Ah, that makes sense, well I have pulled one side apart and ordered up bearings which I intend to fit this weekend, so ASAP really!
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Consider it done.
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Thanks Delk. Do you want some money for ostage? I will get on and send the D60 core drill back!
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Don't worry about it, I am sure I will be in need some day. Hold on to the other one and send both of them back when you are done.
On a side note I sold my last Dana 60 years ago and still cry over it. I had a CJ7 at the time and the transmission went to bits so I had to sell my truck. It was an early 80s Chevy with a 350 V8, SM465 4 speed with granny low, Dana 60 front and GM14 bolt rear. It would have been better to cut the truck up and put all the bits in my Jeep.
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Slight change of plan, control arms are gonna be 57mm cds with 7mm wall after discovering this handy lot:
Steel (http://www.steelexpress.co.uk/structuralsteel/seamless-tubes.html)
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So after a few deliveries this week, and another package from the good man Delk, I thought I'd pop over to the garage and service(read replace) my front wheel bearings with this little lot:
[attachment=1]
After my visit last weekend I remembered to pack a couple of spare UJ's as I thought they were a bit fooked, upon removal of the long side shaft, a whole heap load of mud and slurry came out the tube, feck! I shone my torch up there and low and behold the tube was full of mud.
I had also noticed some pools of 'chocolate milkshake' had leaked on the floor out of the pinion seal, so decided to can the wheel bearing service and see what the diff looked like.......
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Oh Dear God :jpshakehead: do they not do maintenance oop North? :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
[attachment=1]
Well that really laid plans to rest concerning servicing the wheel bearings, so I decided instead to strip the axle(as the steel for the control arms still hasn't turned up...) and give everything a damn good clean. So I stripped the other side down, and found that the caliper had clearly not been moving this century grrr, also I would need 2 new inner axle seals
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after removing the majority of what can only be descibed as shit after a dodgy curry type liquid, I pulled out the diff and pinion, more joy........not :jpshakehead:
[attachment=1]
I also found that the top and bottom ball joints were u/s so decided to out them with my well used $30 harbour freight tool:
[attachment=2]
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Then we made myself wet and everything else clean
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So after today, I find myself staring down at needing:
1 x D44RC Ring and Pinion
diff bearing and shim set
2x inner axle seals
full set top and bottom ball joints
caliper rebuild kit x2
And these calipers Birty's is where I need a bit of a hand to discover what they are, I was told (then again I was told the axle was ok) that it has fsj outers, here is a pic of said kunkles:
[attachment=1]R C 38533[attachment=2] C 38535 L
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what ratio ring and pinion i have a new 4.56 rc 44
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what ratio ring and pinion i have a new 4.56 rc 44
well bugger me, I have two options, either stay 4.10 and re gear the rear to suit of buy a new 4.56 to match the rear, you have PM mr dieselJ20, not all bad today afterall!
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Do you have any pictures of the callipers and a measurement of the piston. I should have some spare GM ones to compare.
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Just at work at the moment but yes i have one at home to try and get info off. Will post in 2 hts or so with pics/dims. Thanks
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Are they the pin type calipers? If so I have some here going spare..
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I'm not sure what you mean by the pin type calipers, but these do have pins that hold the calipers on with a small bit of thread the wrong end (head end). They licate through a hole with a rubber insert in them which in turn holds what looks like a 0.5" bit of tube which can come out. I would know this as i have lost one of the little buggers!
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i would say that the caliper piston is as close to 2"13/16's as it can get or 72mm diameter other wise the caliper is 8" long (200mm) and 6 1/4" wide overall distance between pad surfaces if a piston and pads are not in there is 2n5/8"
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[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
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look like fsj calipers
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look like fsj calipers
so if IOM and or Delk not an option, Lighty's could be an option?
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I have some used but good calipers (I upgraded) you need the front or rear? Have a pair of each.
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front fsj d44?
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For those of you interested, i wrote an article for the awdc outlining my prep for king ov the valleys.
I also started a thread on Devon 4x4, and should soon, when everyone is well again have one here, but in the meantime:
Vectis Racing (http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=16&id=128738&Itemid=81)
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I have also started a thread on pirate, where i thought i would be cremated by the flamers, nothing as yet.....
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They look the same as the ones on my project, what you actually looking for? Mine were believed to be off a Wagoneer (or at least the pads were)
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so we really are past the point of no return now as suspension mounts are being cut off etc, and talk of the day has been to Low-rider it, but with 4' long arms, plenty of bumpstop, and plenty of droop, I still have a set of standard springs in the garage, might have a look see how it'd be with them on.....
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Low-rider is the way forward!!
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gonna be hi lining and tubing the fenders anyhow, and after driving that thug on 37" tyres the other weekend, even for a short while, I could drive stuff most people were winching them selves over, so it makes sense, Also Danny ooop North (big patrol) says it seems to be working
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hopefully got all the bits, (thanks Diesel J20 for your help) from Lightys to rebuild the front axle:
[attachment=1]
fresh calipers turned up from Mad offroad :017: look identical to me:
[attachment=2]
Control arm tube inserts milled to suit ready for glue:
[attachment=3][attachment=4]
just to confirm, that a 60mm od tube (cds) with a 6.8mm wall, hopefully gonna be strong enough otherwise may have to put triangle section over it :icon_eek:
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Seems that on the suspension front...... As IOMS says Low Rider is way to go....l
also ( guess you will have seen this on Pirate) most people are setting their rigs up at full bump rather than running height..... Giving you the low rider fx but still monster articulation and suspension flex..... But no roll over worries of a lofty rig :icon_twisted:
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do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps :die:
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Don't recommend the people at MAD they are unreliable to say the least!!!!
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do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps :die:
Clayton does not believe in bump stops, he says you are not going fast enough to need them!!!
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most of the challenge L/r's I have seen run with about a 2-3" gap before the bumpstop, then have cone dislocation thingys
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do you mean ride height is at the bumpstop? I may have to invest in some of those air bumps :die:
Clayton does not believe in bump stops, he says you are not going fast enough to need them!!!
but something has to stop the uptravel? I certainly have hit my bumpstops enough times :icon_eek:
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approach angle shouldn't be a worry being low, as the first thing at the front will be the tyre and now the rear is going back the tyre won't be far off it at the rear, 100-102" is the ideal
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One has to learn much Jedi!!!
The Mafia only has them on the rear!!
The Buggy has none but the ORI has some ability.
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One has to learn much Jedi!!!
Correct, but if everyday were not a school day, how dull would this world be?
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As the late Gasser said - it's only more shiet to get in the way!!!!
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On call for work, and just had a call out, so better go and earn some pennyage for this ere re build
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oh, and single triangulated on the rear, with the fuel tank being re-located in the tub, half in, half out behind the cage, winch batteries I expect on top
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Yeah low is the way to go, nut do not sacrifice to much up travel after all when driving over an obxticle you car will pass it much easier if its only flexing a wheel over it and not having to lift the weight of the car. I was out at the weekend at a local site and due to the dry weather the grip was amazing so I started to push the limits of gravity further and further, with lockers in and the low cog I have. I ended up traversing and climbing unused parts of a site that been open for years. I simply would not have got a high motor there. How ever Im jealous of you pushing you axles out as the approach and departure angle are the limit of where I can go. I have plans for the rear but im stumped at the front (stupid steering box).
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Our plan is to move the front forwards about 4-5" so that i can still use a tj standard front prop, and as the d300 is shorter than the 231 by about that much that is why the number is as it is. The boys doing the fab seem to think there is enough space to moove the box forwards the same amount, I'll let you know how it goes, like everything the theory is fine what counts is when you come to do it. Wish i had enough dosh for one of those klune 4-1 crawler boxes and some fox/king air shix so i could f off the springs and dampners, but heh we gotta stop somewhere right?
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Im watching with interest, the more I do with mine the deeper im getting with it. It was meant to be a soft roader stop gap, but a little thinking outside the wrangler norm has made a very capable motor.
I hope your's kicks ass when its done its time for a Jeep cat amongst the landrover pigeons.
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If you can imagine a not so Allegro :078: Green, and slightly more msa'd version of this with probably not quite as good fab, and bigger winches, then you'd be not far off:
Mild! TJ (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1030498)
At least thats where we are aiming :003:
Its also gonna be interesting to see the relationship between the front fwd axle and the rad!
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Yeah I have read that before and its very nice indeed.
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cheap doubler http://www.ebay.com/itm/doubler-crawlbox-NP-231-box4rocks-kit-jeep-Klune-V-/160774046063?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ee1416f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/doubler-crawlbox-NP-231-box4rocks-kit-jeep-Klune-V-/160774046063?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ee1416f&vxp=mtr)
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cheap doubler http://www.ebay.com/itm/doubler-crawlbox-NP-231-box4rocks-kit-jeep-Klune-V-/160774046063?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ee1416f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/doubler-crawlbox-NP-231-box4rocks-kit-jeep-Klune-V-/160774046063?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ee1416f&vxp=mtr)
interesting thanks :023:
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Box for rocks gets a load of good reports but just sticks a 2.73 in front of a 2.73 so you either got 2.73or with both boxes 7.45.....
Klune and 231 gives you 2.73 or 4.0 to 1 or with both 10.92...... Which with a 4 to 1 1st gear and 4.56 axles will give you a crawl ratio of 199.18 instead of a standard TJ of maybe 33 or 40ish
Makes a difference.......
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does the above kit increase the transmission length?
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I'm guessing and looking at the pics yes, with a 231/231, but with a 231/300 it would bring it back to stock, as per the klune, then i'd have to run a longer front prop or not move the axle forwards.
WW i see where you are coming from except the doubler is a fraction of the cost of the klune, though youd need to supply another 231.
Presumably you would still be able to run the standard hi and lo gearing with the doubler box in place?
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so I need a 300 and that kit
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so I need a 300 and that kit
a flipt 300 and that kit or a kluneV (http://www.high-impact.net/extreme_underdrive_brochure.htm)
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[attachment=1]running 4.88 231 300 gives 105 to 1
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Yup standard hi and lo still usable........
If I was doing it again I'd go Atlas 4 speed or Stak (fluff allowing).......... when I did this only Atlas 2 speed available.... (fluff didn't allow)
Started in 2002 with Dana 300 then got kit to flip then got NV3500 needing a rebuild then klune.... so all happened whilst still using jeep as DD and took ages what with work and house move......
Finally got on road in 2006......... yup painful 4 years of fluff accumulation..........
Worth it tho........... use dana std ratios in mud and slop
4.1 in hard mud and mild rocks
both: 10.92 in heavy big rocks with hand throttle........ cuts down on damage rocking back and clutch abuse
The dana 300 and klune were only a couple of inches longer than 231 by itself.
But all that is lost in the mists of time now I'm at 105.5" wheelbase :icon_twisted: :icon_super:
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Me like that kit
got lathe and mill may have a go at making spline shaft :thinking: :thinking:
Got Atlas II at the mo the 4 speed came out just months after i go mine :banghead: :banghead:
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yep copied the pictures and made my own :icon_sup[attachment=1]
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what size spline / gear cutter did you use
and is that an output shaft that you turned down
any info would help
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I shouldn't have sold the 231 :banghead:
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turned down shaft used a dd machines 30 deg spline cutter Cutting Dana 44 splines (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW7M_tp6jzw#)
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You mentioned the Landys using the dislocation cones, I personally think these are rubbish and are in place because they run such short stiff springs. Maybe I am wrong but the articulation is lost if the vehicle is no longer sitting on the axles.
I do love the low stretched jeeps and want to move my axle farther forward to gain approach angle and lower it back down. I have 5.5 inch springs in the front just to get the bumper to clear. I will be looking at this in the winter to get back to my old 3 inch springs.
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popped in to see what was occurring today, a full set of superpro bushes have turned up and the mock stage of the new 'tucked' TC case was in full flight:
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
I believe my old engine skid plate is gonna get re-worked to come off the tube, nice n flat :icon_super:
also lots of interesting little touches gonna go in here to stop the TC rubbers getting shagged due to frame twistage
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Just got hold of a pair of dana 44 8 lug discs and spindles, which will match the dually 70 rear, then i can use the dually 16" rims if they are wide enough! So not quite so hens teeth it seems :icon_super:
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i like this thread
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Have you got a kit for rear discs or is it already endowed :icon_biggrin:
I put 3/4 ton chev ones on mine and can hold it up the side of a house on the hydro hand brake.... Still fascinated by them as I' ve had a Jeeping life with crapbrakes up until now :icon_super:
Whoops just read your post properly
Anyway you'll love rear discs of 'size'!
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Dana 70 rear is on drum brakes at them moment, also its a long term project, maybe something for next year.. Brake solenoid also holds jeep so much it will stall if you try to drive away in hi ratio
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Looking good
[attachment=1]
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I spy Land Rover parts
Looks really good. What are your plans for a skid plate?
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I spy Land Rover parts
Looks really good. What are your plans for a skid plate?
Morph my old engine skid back on, we're gonna put tabs on the tube TC mount and then fix to that....I think! but everything changes as the thing evolves
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MMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnnnnmmmmmmmhhh!
Just had some investigations with the nice people at RCV and it seems my front half shaft lengths are concurrent with those of an F250 HP D44....... :017:
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anyone for some heavy going??
The Law of Gravity and your Jeep (http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/cog/#_Toc535118722)
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MMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnnnnmmmmmmmhhh!
Just had some investigations with the nice people at RCV and it seems my front half shaft lengths are concurrent with those of an F250 HP D44....... :017:
But according to TRS (http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm), its a 150 as my axle tubes are 2.75" with a 3/8 wall....
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anyone for some heavy going??
The Law of Gravity and your Jeep (http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/cog/#_Toc535118722)
I lost the will to live after the first two lines. :017:
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oooh check the stamina on Mr Show Off :003:
first word for me
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gravity = :icon_biggrin:
Putting one tons and 40s+ on steel wheels under your rig...... Without narrowing yer track..........
There you go. No equations and no particle physics
:icon_twisted:
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your axle will be f150 or light duty f250. heavy duty f250 snowfighter,s have a 60 rc
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might can the Dana 44's all together, I only really want to do this once.....
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yeah scrap them as an idea mate and sell me a locker :003:
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yeah scrap them as an idea mate and sell me a locker :003:
which one? :003:
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all of them :icon_eek:
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HAd a good chat with Carl at Jantz engineering tonight, also had a good chat with a chap from Armtech this afternoon, oh and I changed a fan motor too :greggmo:
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swine :011:
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Plans are afoot. or at least thats what I keep telling myself....
[attachment=1]
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some more bling turned up today:
[attachment=1]
And seeing as I have been pussyfooting around, trying to order bits per month, I thought I would MTFU, and get in deeper than my head.....
So:
Armtech...ordered
14" Fox airshox....ordered
Jana 54 and K4 and girdles......ordered
Beadlocks.....collected
Brantz....delivered
ARB's....delivered
RCV's....ordered
Antirock....ordered
24V alt....collected
Oh and whilst I was trundling around at the weekend dropping bits off and picking bits up, I slipt and went to the Nipplegig shoppe:
[attachment=2]
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OHHHH a brace of twin tops with Bow's and big drums!!!!
That has to be £8,000 chewed into your ASS!!!
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And your carpet SUCKS by the way!!
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IOM you don't miss much do you? :003:
Work is gonna start in earnest shortly...looking forward to it,
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And your carpet SUCKS by the way!!
it absorbs ep90 quite well :003:
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Finally finally got some bits from the good ole US of A so the rebuild can start in earnest......wonder what could be in here? looks like some speedy electricity :003:
[attachment=1]
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shocking :icon_biggrin:
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MmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmFOXY LADY :F2963JIF5GDQOXEMEDIUM: :icon_super:
[attachment=1]
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nice polished shaft :icon_winkle:
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Thanks to a Birty's member I now have the same stud pattern front to back, and have had my wheels colour co-ordinated with my cage:
[attachment=1]
So, The new shocks are a little ahem....long :icon_eek:
[attachment=2]
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fuckin hell mate - fair play - not many would sell half of the troos to fund beadlocks :icon_super:
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So, The new shocks are a little ahem....long :icon_eek:
Arrrr captn Birdseye, is that your new peg leg :003:
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fuckin hell mate - fair play - not many would sell half of the troos to fund beadlocks :icon_super:
Sorry mate, sadly I decided not to advertise my half troos on here, since they were half used I expect most birties would have deemed my price too expensive, especially seeing as I was trying to fund my new beadlocks :hysterical:
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Thank God something has started.......
So first off we have some chassis straightening:
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
and I have just had an email to say that my Jana stuff has been made and is enroute to my Bundlebox :icon_super:
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Now that stuff has started moving forwards I am gonna try out having a frequent email newsletter. So if you would like to receive it, then sign up here:
Newsletter (http://visitor.r20.constantcontact.com/manage/optin/ea?v=001QsJYFel2BmugK1K3k3Qr5TMKEhanetfQlfmvxsfSmuG6ujtbLL5rs-XKFsC-_VwcNWiXPUE2vumRRZje-9PMbg%3D%3D)
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do you guarentee not to sell my details to a third party? :003:
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shit has started happening :ace:
flex?
[attachment=1] :003:
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Will you be rollin' on the 29th
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not if that lazy fucker doesnt get off his tea break
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I am sincerely hoping so, gotta have Jeep at Morrisons on the 15/6 for fundraising duties,
so we have a bet on to see if I can bend my control arms, could be a challenge :003:
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Be carefull about the pursuit of flex!!!
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Be carefull about the pursuit of flex!!!
thats an extreme, the shocks don't reach anywhere near that.. When done my TJ will still have an MOT so we don't wanna go too mad!
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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Looking good......very good.
apparently less up and more down ........flex ....is the way the Pirate guys are going for a low riding truck :icon_twisted:
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Going for 3-4 up and 11-10 down
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T'would be rude to ask......but WTF........
What's your budget??? Or should I say predicted spend????
as they say...... 'Enquiring minds need to know :icon_twisted:'
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Nice to see abit of progress and you with a smile on your face, hopefully regaining the "will to live". My old beadlocks have come a treat. If the Jeep makes it to Morrisons on the 15/6 in any form (pushing allowed) you can stick £25 from me in your collection tin. :greggmo:
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T'would be rude to ask...
Correct :greggmo:
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Nice to see abit of progress and you with a smile on your face, hopefully regaining the "will to live". My old beadlocks have come a treat. If the Jeep makes it to Morrisons on the 15/6 in any form (pushing allowed) you can stick £25 from me in your collection tin. :greggmo:
Thats very kind of you. Worst case scenario is the jeep gets there on a trailer. Should be a rolling chassis this weekend
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Last shipment turned up fro Yankeydoodar today
[attachment=1]
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hopefully there will be some more progress shortly
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Tasty bits. :greggmo:
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:ace: more shit n ting has started happening, i'd like some birty opinions please, does this pic look right or ???? bear in mind the front will stay where it is in the pics but the rear can moove, also bear in mind that the rear bumper will be coming off along with the rear slider thingy
[attachment=1][attachment=3][attachment=2]
we will be comp cutting the rear
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What is your ideal tyre size??
Are you going full hydro steering??
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Judging by the first pic.......are you gonna stick a Freelander front on it :017:
You honestly want an opinion on that :hysterical:
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What is your ideal tyre size?? Ideal is 37" but for this year I will stay 35"
Are you going full hydro steering?? No, it needs an MOT and unless I am mistaken you can't have both
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OK so 37" is the maximum you can fit without pushing the front out.
So hydro assist is the route you are heading - you are gong to need to find a G-Class steering box.
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OK so 37" is the maximum you can fit without pushing the front out.
So hydro assist is the route you are heading - you are gong to need to find a G-Class steering box.
the front has gone forwards a bit, perhaps 4" or so.
do you think it looks out of place with the rear where it is? I have my opinion but don't want to sway what people say on here
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I think the rear looks fine.
Just need to cut the arches to suit.
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If you have 37" as the ideal why push the front out??
Personally stretching the rear would be my preferred choice.
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you are gong to need to find a G-Class steering box.
I wonder who has one of those :icon_winkle:
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you are gong to need to find a G-Class steering box.
I wonder who has one of those :icon_winkle:
Oh yes....
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If you have 37" as the ideal why push the front out??
Personally stretching the rear would be my preferred choice.
Ok, I see your point, The idea with the front going forwards was so I could keep the build cheap :hysterical: and still use the front prop shaft at standard length, we reckoned it must go forwards to accomodate the shorter d300 and longer pinion nose on the HP Dana44
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Get a new front prop this will be the logical choice if you ask me - you don't want to open a can-of-worms and compromise!!!
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it aint greenlanin in the iow on the 30th june is my opinion :003:
i will have a spare seat in the volvo :098:
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Right then.....
Go for 105 to 107 wheelbase front looks like it could go further out so that'll help with weight equalisation
Rear looks like it could go a few inches further if your comp cut
Your TJ box will be ok just move it forwards to where it would be over the axle like it was..... And Weldy Weldy
Put it where it needs to be..... Steering column is solid bar ......just make it the correct length.
For MOT you'restuck with hydro assist just be aware there will be a delay...... Which is why IOM champions Full Hydro
And why I do as well , can't fault it cos it never complains when things are twisted like a pretzel :icon_super:
getting there...... Looking good!!
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Also, I intend to limit strap the centre of the axles, so that when driving up side slopes and quartering uphill (bearing in mind it will be on airshox) it doesn't unload and fall over, wher ccan I find out or is there a calculator to determine what length these should be? :017:
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i will have a spare seat in the volvo :098:
You are not comin to the IOW in a Vulva ...... end off :tool:
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Right then.....
Go for 105 to 107 wheelbase front looks like it could go further out so that'll help with weight equalisation
Rear looks like it could go a few inches further if your comp cut
Your TJ box will be ok just move it forwards to where it would be over the axle like it was..... And Weldy Weldy
Put it where it needs to be..... Steering column is solid bar ......just make it the correct length.
For MOT you'restuck with hydro assist just be aware there will be a delay...... Which is why IOM champions Full Hydro
And why I do as well , can't fault it cos it never complains when things are twisted like a pretzel :icon_super:
getting there...... Looking good!!
In the pic, that is at 106", and with 22-23" belly clearance, I have asked for a ride height at 20", WW do you know what the clearance is under yours?
On an entertaining note, the front LCA's are bent slightly, to keep them in (and keep good steering) whilst still fitting betwix the short side and the pumpkin, anyhow, bending that 50mmx 7mm wall steel nearly bust the bender..... :icon_eek:
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[attachment=1]
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i will have a spare seat in the volvo :098:
You are not comin to the IOW in a Vulva ...... end off :tool:
time is tickin close :icon_eek:
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Also, I intend to limit strap the centre of the axles, so that when driving up side slopes and quartering uphill (bearing in mind it will be on airshox) it doesn't unload and fall over, wher ccan I find out or is there a calculator to determine what length these should be? :017:
I'm confused??
If you went ORI this would not have been a problem.
Why go over the 100 wheel base if you are keeping (doggedly) the vision for bluebook?
If you bend the control arms you are adding a weak spot!!
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If you limit strap the centre you willnotaffect the articulation. So you can fix it so that you have as much Movement down ...in the centre as you have up... To full bump!
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26" to. Chassis from ground
Lowest part of skid is 3" more
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Indeed but you have more rubber than willo's ideal.
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Also, I intend to limit strap the centre of the axles, so that when driving up side slopes and quartering uphill (bearing in mind it will be on airshox) it doesn't unload and fall over, wher ccan I find out or is there a calculator to determine what length these should be? :017:
I'm confused??
If you went ORI this would not have been a problem.
Why go over the 100 wheel base if you are keeping (doggedly) the vision for bluebook?
If you bend the control arms you are adding a weak spot!!
ORI's I quite simply cannot afford.....I had an idea of what I needed to get to a certain level of (I hope) reliability and have sunk cash into that, Foxies were an afterthought seeing as all this is happening blah blah blah, and my arm was twisted by the garage
100" wheelbase I will have to suck it and see. Although others have said it is possible, I can assure you it is not possible to have a 100" TJ with all 4 wheels in the corners whilst keeping the look of the TJ by keeping the rear Tub and not traybacking........i'd like to be prooved wrong
I realise by bending you are introducing weakness but once again these are the challenges that are presented to us, and if the LCA's were straight off the chassis, the pax side one would hit straight onto the diff pumpkin, so it was either loose steering lock by mounting the arm outside the rail, or keep it and put a kink in the arms.....I'm sure we could gusset it if need be, sadly time is not on my side anymore so I can't get the axle re-tubed
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Do you want me to get off me ass and go measure th Mafia skid plate for you - this will give a better indication as it's currently sitting on 37" mudzillas?
You need to look at hydro bump stops to control droop.
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Do you want me to get off me ass and go measure th Mafia skid plate for you - this will give a better indication as it's currently sitting on 37" mudzillas?
You need to look at hydro bump stops to control droop.
Yes that would be helpful, hydro bumps are a bit of a stretch at the mo - tho someone has a birthday this month Blues, may look at ahem landrover bumps on the chassis rails bumping the LCA's....maybe, Irealise the forces will be greater
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I used big foam bump stops from Demon tweaks.... They compress to 50% of height so give a soft check.
You can then mount these on. Steel pads at the height you want them! They are cheap.
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I used big foam bump stops from Demon tweaks.... They compress to 50% of height so give a soft check.
You can then mount these on. Steel pads at the height you want them! They are cheap.
:023: thankyou, gotta love Birty's :icon_super:
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don't spose you have a link?
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26" to the chassis and 23'5" to the Clayton skid.
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26" to the chassis and 23'5" to the Clayton skid.
Thanks, air'd up or air'd down?
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I believe that's at 15psi but not sure as it's sat for some considerable time!!
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I used big foam bump stops from Demon tweaks.... They compress to 50% of height so give a soft check.
You can then mount these on. Steel pads at the height you want them! They are cheap.
Problem with this is the axle moves so much when linked and to find a suitable touch spot on the axle is a challenge!!!
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I used big foam bump stops from Demon tweaks.... They compress to 50% of height so give a soft check.
You can then mount these on. Steel pads at the height you want them! They are cheap.
Problem with this is the axle moves so much when linked and to find a suitable touch spot on the axle is a challenge!!!
we will work it out :greggmo:
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OK OK let me put it another way - you are not going to find a sweet spot unless you restrict flex!!!
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OK OK let me put it another way - you are not going to find a sweet spot unless you restrict flex!!!
me or WW :017:
if its me I'm not sure what you are driving at...
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Dry hump the front axle and all will be revealed - it moves a shiet load on flex,
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but surely it won't move fore and aft :017: so once bumps are in place at full bump, nothing should change, air or polybush bump irrelevant
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but surely it won't move fore and aft :017: so once bumps are in place at full bump, nothing should change, air or polybush bump irrelevant
Jedi you are going to compromise for sure.
I just so happen to have a couple of hydro bump stops kicking about!!
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Or google
demon Tweaks
Powerflex heavy duty bump stops
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Or google
demon Tweaks
Powerflex heavy duty bump stops
got it lol :003:
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these diff covers are thick mof's, 3/8" thick :icon_eek:
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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HMMM..
Curious question, what size prop yoke did you go for?
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1310. I realise the pitfalls, when more cash allows I will upgrade to 1330 or 1350
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Indeed I have 1330 front and 1350 rear.
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Maybe I am the outcast but I like the front and would move the back forward so you didn't have to do the big comp cut. My preference would be to open up the back but keep the round corners so the body tub keeps it's shape.
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Maybe I am the outcast but I like the front and would move the back forward so you didn't have to do the big comp cut. My preference would be to open up the back but keep the round corners so the body tub keeps it's shape.
Intersting, which reminds me i must dig out your hub nut sockets and send em back
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You may want to give your original steering a try before making up your mind on what to do. You should notice that the steering arms on the new axle should be longer then the original TJ ones. Whit the stock steering box you will have more leverage but the steering impute is slower.
Any issues you had while running the 35's will be reduced so you will be able to focus on other problems and get it back on the trails.
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Add to that you now have my GC pitman arm drilled for 1 ton tre's
Tis an 1" longer so leverage and full lock are back :icon_twisted:
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cool cool, all good stuff,
so i took the rear bumper off today, it looks much better:
[attachment=1]
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Looking like we may be 4 linking the front now to get rid of the panhard rod and clear up some space for the steering bars
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4 link front :icon_eek:
Are you sure you want to go down this route??
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4 link front :icon_eek:
Are you sure you want to go down this route??
what have we not thought of now :017:
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I looked into this with Gasser, basically he told be it does not work on the front application!!
The Mafia has so much flex bumpsteer is a constant battle, 4 link will only compound this.
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I looked into this with Gasser, basically he told be it does not work on the front application!!
The Mafia has so much flex bumpsteer is a constant battle, 4 link will only compound this.
ok
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King CJ has 4 link on the front...... And mog axle weight.....works well with hydro steering.....and a lot of lift...
also works if you cut chassis in front of engine mounts and tube upwards at 45 degrees..... You are now talking buggy Juggy stuff and kerching.....there goes another body part....
Oh and you will deffo need an atv winch to control axle height or lack of when climbing....
so its off to Pirate Hardcore for another night of research for you :icon_twisted:
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How's the work left to do/looming start date of the KOTV working out?
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we will be there
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No panhard will be a nightmare with conventional steering as said above. The axles centre point will never alter, so everytime your passenger moves the length of the steering arm will change. Meaning flex steer, bump steer and an impossible to correct feel all the time even when going slow.
As nice as 4 link can be on the front it only works with hydro
Although on the front of the auverlander as standard they ran 3 link which should cause the same problem, cant say I have ever driven one to find out.
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when I say 4 link, I mean with the upper triangulated, will this also cause the same issues?
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4 link front equals full hydro.
4 link suspension travels straight up and down so conventional steering will creates masses of bump steer.
3 link with a pan hard bar travels in an arc that should be matched to the steering so you don't get bump steer.
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Thanks, I also just looked on Pirate and everyone saying the same thing, so pants to that plan, presuming they haven't done it already... :icon_eek: :icon_rolleyes:
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With a three link front you have to focus on the following to get it to work correctly.
Pan hard and drag links need to be the same length and angles.
There is a highly technical relation between mounting points and body roll.
Lower down on the axle end helps reduce wheel lift when side force is applied.
Flatter angles are better to reduce side to side movement of the axle.
You are not going with a very high lift so this helps.
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Also with 4 link front you will find that the axle will move to the left and right when articulated...(hence full hydro your only answer)
To get around this if axle far enough forward and diff is clear of stuff like sump and rad then 4 link double triangulated is the way to go.......tis good for rear as well but most just have lower links going straight forward or angled in just a bit.....
Bottom line double triangulated four link is king........
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some progress:
Jeep is sitting at full bump, and will go up 3-4" when done, airshox fit inside the arches and will lean forwards, battery's will go in trays level with bottom of new rear bumper, so LHS one fits under the winch brake :icon_eek: hole cut in tub will stay open to stop mud filling up in silly places :003: and all will be heavily braced so I can use the rear as a middle winch
[attachment=1]
Oh and rear wheels will go out 30mm each side, rear winch housing is future proofed for a twigglepin
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And then onto the front, winch will be mounted other way round and low down inline with the new steering box location
[attachment=1]
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progress is suddenly flying along :icon_super:
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Do I see a "FATBOY Giggletwin" or do my eyes deceive me?
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Do I see a "FATBOY Giggletwin" or do my eyes deceive me?
c'mon Peter, you know I have one for the front, it will be a GP84 with 24Volts up 12 volt B2's with plus 50% :icon_super: I am gonna show those Muthafuckin landrovers I tell ya!
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+50!! Man-a-live that like wearing a mini skirt Blues
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and plus 40's on the back with 24v through 24v B1's
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I'm not convinced by this 24V stuff ( bit like mini skirt and suspenders) !!
Faster to kick-in and faster to slow down, personally I will be 12v all the way.
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Wont it burn the motor out running on twice its rated voltage?? or have you a cunning plan to stop that?
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Wont it burn the motor out running on twice its rated voltage?? or have you a cunning plan to stop that?
motors are rated 12-36 volts, its when you go sub 12 volts they don't like it, hopefully by the time my build is done, Jim will have his electro magnetic brake on the meerkat and I will get 1 of them to stop the over run.
I have tried 24v thru 12, it rocks, and if its good enough for Jim, its good enough for me
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Sorry Delk, the Jigsaw came out......
[attachment=1]
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Wont it burn the motor out running on twice its rated voltage?? or have you a cunning plan to stop that?
motors are rated 12-36 volts, its when you go sub 12 volts they don't like it, hopefully by the time my build is done, Jim will have his electro magnetic brake on the meerkat and I will get 1 of them to stop the over run.
I have tried 24v thru 12, it rocks, and if its good enough for Jim, its good enough for me
Why be a sheep when you can be a wolf??
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Looking good and a bit radical.... You realise you're only a few pints away from tube frameing the complete rear end like the Pirate boys don't ya
Go on you know you want to....... And still keep it road legal :icon_super:
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a bit radical? maybe but heh lets push the box and do something in the UK that those frigging Landrovers will stop and take note......obviously after yourself, King CJ, IOM etc
All my welding and tube bending and chassis mods have been done by a 20 year old, he has big things to come me thinks :greggmo:
And heh if you want some stuff doing to your truck whilst on holiday on the IOW, give them a call on 01983 614350
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now that is a plan Willo, unless its a dump I think the BD clan will be back for a longer stay, and the kaiser will need a roll cage
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I want front and rear HD bumpers for the ML, don't want those pansy jobbies but the ugly fookers that work.
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I am hoping that 'they' will all be at the bbq :103:
IOM, in a weekend may be stretching it, but heh if you leave it here, I could drag my TJ up to KOV with it and you could pick it up after cheering me on :greggmo:
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And heh if you want some stuff doing to your truck whilst on holiday on the IOW, give them a call on 01983 614350
Oh and he (George) will be building me a stainless free flowing header as he can stainless weld, ally weld......the list goes on
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And heh if you want some stuff doing to your truck whilst on holiday on the IOW, give them a call on 01983 614350
Oh and he (George) will be building me a stainless free flowing header as he can stainless weld, ally weld......the list goes on
I could have a job for him - does he want to re locate, he must have an appetite for to learn MB product?
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And heh if you want some stuff doing to your truck whilst on holiday on the IOW, give them a call on 01983 614350
Oh and he (George) will be building me a stainless free flowing header as he can stainless weld, ally weld......the list goes on
as much as I love to promote people, then I won't have anyone to build my jeep on the island, or MOT it, he is qualified in that, he is also a marine engineer, see you can leave school at 14.....
he is an exceptional find, and talent needs promoting..... :010:
I could have a job for him - does he want to re locate, he must have an appetite for to learn MB product?
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And heh if you want some stuff doing to your truck whilst on holiday on the IOW, give them a call on 01983 614350
Oh and he (George) will be building me a stainless free flowing header as he can stainless weld, ally weld......the list goes on
as much as I love to promote people, then I won't have anyone to build my jeep on the island, or MOT it, he is qualified in that, he is also a marine engineer, see you can leave school at 14.....
he is an exceptional find, and talent needs promoting..... :010:
I could have a job for him - does he want to re locate, he must have an appetite for to learn MB product?
I left at 15 years of age with only 8 GCE results, life is what you make of it!!!!
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My Vectis Racing is entirely funded by my own pocket, but in a bid to win some real cash sponsors I am trying to promote our team by at least looking professional in what we do, so to go along with my website, here is our team Shirts featuring some companies that see a chance to add value through advertising from what I do, in return for favourable prices on parts and labour:
[attachment=1]
King of the Valleys will be on TV in august on Motors TV, so if your company would like some advertising space on my truck, shirts, shorts/trousers, helmets, Tow vehicles or trailer then please get in touch
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I need to get my ass into gear to register 'Bulldog Old Iron Jeeps' and then I can float a £5 your way for some prominant advertising :icon_super:
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I'll take your £5ver BD! lol plenty of space for advertising....
do we want some more photo's tonight? :003:
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cool, may even make it £10 if you get a tattoo as well :003:
course we want more pics :icon_super:
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ride height?
[attachment=1][attachment=2]
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Front winch mount:
[attachment=1]
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Rear chassis detail:
[attachment=1]
Rear Truss
[attachment=4]
Rear arms:
[attachment=2]
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Jeep been in touch yet?
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You going to fish tail that chassis weld?
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You going to fish tail that chassis weld?
which is what now?? though I think I know...... like puddle weld but different?
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(https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQkO6DPTnOJnWIe4Hmuv9mlKVpsDW8DohfKIZeALeyVbiTccfe6Ew)
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Jeep been in touch yet?
No, I have tried another method, and have another up my sleeve....
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Jeep don't give a shiet, I tried this route.
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Rear arms:
[attachment=2]
nice looking rear arms would like some long arms for the WJ once i am back in work or a clayton copy kit for my 4+ inch lift.
All this talk about electric winches and from what i can see the Giggle Pin are fairly costly. Would a hydraulic winch not be the best to run in a competition event as water etc is not such a problem. Or is that a different class please excuse my ignorance but i am curious on the pros and cons..
Great build and only just across the water from me.
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class would be the same, there are a few considerations to account for on hydraulic,
1) If you have a dead engine you have no winch
2) they are strong and will pull and pull and pull, not indicating any sign of weakness until something catastrophically snaps, at least with a leccy motor you will hear it slowing up.
It's all horses for courses really
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You going to fish tail that chassis weld?
judging by the angle of what goes where I'm guessing (but will check later) fish tailing or puddle welding isn't an option, lets hope that weld is strong enough.......time will tell
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Fishtailed and Rossette welded all my chassis joints or extension.......cos I didn't know how strong strong is........
but when you look at the factory welds you realize........ No worries
Always best to err on overkill :icon_super:
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The back of a TJ is not so critical since all the suspension is up forward. If something does happen a quick spectator maybe able to make off with a new to them winch if they are fast!
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The back of a TJ is not so critical since all the suspension is up forward. If something does happen a quick spectator maybe able to make off with a new to them winch if they are fast!
:icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :violence: :headhack:
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I am gonna need me a new grill, I MUST have that Iconic front grill, which one shall I go for?
[attachment=1]
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gotta be a 7 slot and my fav are the late MB or CJ2a they also look closest to TJ size by those picks
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As I have a bit of a gap....
[attachment=1]
Don't forget motors and albrights gotta go in
Nice n low:
[attachment=2]
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Like those a lot.... Especially the smaller ones......but are they legal in the UK......... Great for pushing MILFs out the way tho :icon_twisted:
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Indeed a stinger - ACE these are...
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Fundraising today:
If anyone could direct link this it's be much appreciated!
Bloomin iphones
http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/VectisRacing/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=526724_10150848701866841_2079410811_n.jpg&evt=vacuum_job_complete]
[url]http://s1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/VectisRacing/Facebook/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=526724_10150848701866841_2079410811_n.jpg&evt=vacuum_job_complete (http://[url)[/url]
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Well done Willo, £25 added to your H4H collection... Hope you have a good turnout and your tin overflows... Donations can be made here (http://www.bmycharity.com/vectisracing/).
(http://www.j33p.org/_ftparea/j3mike/willo_morrisons.jpg)
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I am gonna need me a new grill, I MUST have that Iconic front grill, which one shall I go for?
[attachment=1]
well now seeing as I posted that I was going MB from Jeep parts for £95 ........... But the week has taken that wedge in
Travel ins. And a paddock stand for the Kwak......I failed........ Till later :icon_twisted:
But we can't both have the MB treatment..... People will talk. :hysterical:.. Or is it a race to MB......noses???
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Well done Willo, £25 added to your H4H collection... Hope you have a good turnout and your tin overflows... Donations can be made here (http://www.bmycharity.com/vectisracing/).
(http://www.j33p.org/_ftparea/j3mike/willo_morrisons.jpg)
Mrs Willo did the counting last night and it turns out we managed to raise £430.83, so current pot is up to the £750 mark!
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well done dood
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yup well done, can't help looking at that pic and noticing the help for heroes banner on jeep then seeing the heroes sweets one in the shop window and my mind automatically associating the two for some mad reason.
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I am gonna need me a new grill, I MUST have that Iconic front grill, which one shall I go for?
[attachment=1]
well now seeing as I posted that I was going MB from Jeep parts for £95 ........... But the week has taken that wedge in
Travel ins. And a paddock stand for the Kwak......I failed........ Till later :icon_twisted:
But we can't both have the MB treatment..... People will talk. :hysterical:.. Or is it a race to MB......noses???
My front clip is coming off and being re-built in toobe, so then I will have to find some slats
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Yup, definitely gonna have to find some slats to fit
[attachment=1]
What do we think? FSJ width Lowrider but on 35's TJ: :icon_super:
[attachment=3]
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Looking good :icon_twisted:
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very fuckin shexy, kinda like what Im gonna be aimin for on the 7 but a tad more technologically advanced :003:
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411 and 35's does not work young Jedi..
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are you talking to me?
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Hope so! I will be on 4.88's
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some more pics, this really is at full bump, control arms on chassis kinda touch:
[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3][attachment=4][attachment=5][attachment=6] :icon_super:
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Also got my diff covers back from the powdercoater's today, with a fresh lick of bogey green Blues[attachment=1]
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Willo
You may think about upping your steering pump pressure. I may have some notes on how I did mine in my service manual years ago but I will be out of town for a few weeks. I found this article that is for the older style power steering pump. The pump on your TJ is similar and you will find the same valve under the outlet pipe on the top of the pump. You have to clean the filth and mud off and remove the high pressure hose and fitting between the pulley and tank.
I had played with my stock pump and was a bit shocked when I installed an AGR one. With my playing around the stock unit was far more powerful. It is also helpful to put a small transmission cooler in the return line just to keep things happy.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html)
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Willo
You may think about upping your steering pump pressure. I may have some notes on how I did mine in my service manual years ago but I will be out of town for a few weeks. I found this article that is for the older style power steering pump. The pump on your TJ is similar and you will find the same valve under the outlet pipe on the top of the pump. You have to clean the filth and mud off and remove the high pressure hose and fitting between the pulley and tank.
I had played with my stock pump and was a bit shocked when I installed an AGR one. With my playing around the stock unit was far more powerful. It is also helpful to put a small transmission cooler in the return line just to keep things happy.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html)
interesting, thanks. Delk, I'd be keen to learn more when you return :023:
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Anyone on facebook?
www.facebook.com/vectisracing (http://www.facebook.com/vectisracing) :greggmo:
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Doom Gloom and failure.... :jpshakehead:
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I know that feeling :003:
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whats up will ?
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It seems the rear TJ dana 44 axle is not wide enough to mount the airshox onto, so that I can still have a std TJ fuel tank in the back, the problem is not on the droop, but on the stuff, with a side at full stuff and the other at max droop, the tyre twists in too much and hits the shock body. need solutions without compromising travel, and whilst still keeping it MOT friendly, and still using the rear tj 44 axle.....
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options are: lathe the wheel centres out and re -weld with wider offset
or section the chassis out so the shox run through where the chassis was
or run the shox inboard the chassis rails and perchase a new tank... might be a tadge sheite on the road cos of the angle of the shox
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options are: lathe the wheel centres out and re -weld with wider offset
or section the chassis out so the shox run through where the chassis was
or run the shox inboard the chassis rails and perchase a new tank... might be a tadge sheite on the road cos of the angle of the shox
or fit a wider axle, which time and money won't allow
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I may be missing something but a less drastic fix to re-working your wheels might be wheel spacers or new wheels with a wider offset??
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow....... If I wnt the wheel route, I would have to get 3 so as to mount the spare on one, not ideal methinks
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Adjust the lower mount up, down or side to side on the axle? I'm more familiar with the XJ rear but for JeepSpeed they commonly mount on top of the axle (top mount is up inside the body) - just a different idea in case it helps.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/EnglishXJ/10_day_jeep_xj_cherokee_jeepspeed.jpg)
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow.......
is that fact? since when?
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow.......
is that fact? since when?
I believe so :greggmo:
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Adjust the lower mount up, down or side to side on the axle? I'm more familiar with the XJ rear but for JeepSpeed they commonly mount on top of the axle (top mount is up inside the body) - just a different idea in case it helps.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/EnglishXJ/10_day_jeep_xj_cherokee_jeepspeed.jpg)
Thanks James :greggmo:
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will I get shot down in flames if I cut a cj2a rill to fit on my tj? or would it just be uuuber cool?
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just do it, its your truck :icon_winkle:
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:imwitstupid: follow ya madness dood
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow....... If I wnt the wheel route, I would have to get 3 so as to mount the spare on one, not ideal methinks
Well get these guys to build you some wheels with an extreme negative offset.
http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/ (http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/) problem solved... i thank you.
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow....... If I wnt the wheel route, I would have to get 3 so as to mount the spare on one, not ideal methinks
Well get these guys to build you some wheels with an extreme negative offset.
http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/ (http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/) problem solved... i thank you.
chassis has been scalped....
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow....... If I wnt the wheel route, I would have to get 3 so as to mount the spare on one, not ideal methinks
Well get these guys to build you some wheels with an extreme negative offset.
http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/ (http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/) problem solved... i thank you.
useful but wowser pricey :icon_eek:
im thinkin that maybe takin the spacers off for the mot will make more sense
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(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/VectisRacing/9807c94c.jpg)
BD don't forget, if you buy steel spacers and weld them onto the wheel, they are then part of the wheel and not a spacer... :greggmo:
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already got spacers, 30mm each side, the max Mr MOT and MSA will allow....... If I wnt the wheel route, I would have to get 3 so as to mount the spare on one, not ideal methinks
Well get these guys to build you some wheels with an extreme negative offset.
http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/ (http://www.mach5wheels.co.uk/) problem solved... i thank you.
useful but wowser pricey :icon_eek:
im thinkin that maybe takin the spacers off for the mot will make more sense
not that bad when you consider uk companies are charging between £280 to £400 for wheels spacers.
And you can get a set of 5 stud wheels for £560 or 6 stud for £620 with you own preffered offset, good value from a certain point of view or maybe these aren't the wheels you're looking for.
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sitting on its own springs, its gonna be a vertical learning curve with these shocks! Sat at 21.5 inches belly clearance, which accounts a little for a full fuel tank spare wheel, and us fat bastards, to perhaps take it down to 20". Interestingly we got 80psi in the rear, and 90 in the front
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/VectisRacing/photo70.jpg)
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oh dear it looks like they've cocked up the calcs :icon_eek:
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q494/VectisRacing/photo72.jpg)
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are you standing in a hole?
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are you standing in a hole?
no just a money pit :hysterical:
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You must be reasonably busy, about now?
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Well...... We are in Wales. The Tj is on a trailer whoooofeckin hooooo! And is done enough so we can compete. We have had an epic journey to get to this stage, and we wouldn't be in a position to drive without the expertese of a well known Birtys member. Thankyou!!
We still have a monumental afternoon to get the tj through sroitineering but we will make every effort to get on the start line.
Hopefully we may see some of you there??
There is only 2 jeeps competing, us and Acerni offroad from Italia! It should be awesome
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Fingers crossed, and good luck!
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Best wishes!!! :icon_super:
BF
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Good luck, I'm sure we'll all be rooting for you.
Oh and remember to enjoy ya self.
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Good luck with the challenge.
I wish I had the time to come and watch, and see your rebuilt Jeep in action.
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good luck
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well done Will, good work dood
and well done mystery birty who is always v helpful :greggmo:
where do i send my vectis racing fuel money?
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had a blast, but o boy was it tough!
[attachment=1]
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Well done mate looks well tough on the truck.... Bet it will show up any rattle prone bits :icon_twisted:
bet it was tough on yer butt too :icon_biggrin:
You running no grill and lights or is that just an illusion?
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Thats how far it got! Lights and an mot to come! No grill for the mo Got a niggle with the d300 :-(
But oh my gosh the difference is outstanding. The 4.88's make a massive difference having no cat makes a massive dufference!
And the thing has grip like it never had before :-)
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tell me about the niggle with the Dana 300 :icon_sad:
hope tis not something I didn't tell you about......?
at a guess bet its shifting on the fly when moving fast? Direct cut (straight cut gears) they don't like that!
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2wd rear axle low comes out when driving along, annoyingly when going down hills
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Hi Will
Chap i know in Boston has this transfer box in his CJ7
He has a very high tech way of dealing with it jumping out
2 separate short bungies
May help
Tim
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2wd rear axle low comes out when driving along, annoyingly when going down hills
Arhhhhh! known for that in two stick operation..... Tis cos they need a stronger spring on the ball bearing to hold it in gear...... Available in US...... I'll try and trawl the anorak brain to find out. Who :icon_biggrin:
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http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php) but does not always cure
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2wd rear axle low comes out when driving along, annoyingly when going down hills
Arhhhhh! known for that in two stick operation..... Tis cos they need a stronger spring on the ball bearing to hold it in gear...... Available in US...... I'll try and trawl the anorak brain to find out. Who :icon_biggrin:
fair enough, perhaps ill leave it in 4wd :003:
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As requested dood:
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Good day then..... How did your rcv,s hold up?
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If thats a loaded question, you will already know i have a few rcv related issues, i ain't saying much more til i know the extent and have contacted RCV
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RCV issues? Keep us informed as I am very very jealous and want some in my jeep if anyone will buy my children for a reasonable price.
Speaking of costs, how much do you think the pro rock 60's under the Italian Jeep cost!
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15k euros each end flown in from septic land?
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The italian jeep had a build spec at 100,000€ plus they got a lot foc as they are the european dealer for a lot of stuff. It has a 14 bolt on the rear as Pier previously stripped a d60 r and p
They are a super helpful bunch, i received some arb shims at christmas time in 2 days when they were snowed in after no-one in the uk could help....
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh :icon_super: d60?
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh :icon_super: d60?
?? for me? no
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d60 with uj's nice and brutal
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[attachment=1]
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Looks like you were laying down on the job while you crew got to work
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Looks like you were laying down on the job while you crew got to work
fml it would have been the first instance of it!
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Specs on the Italian TJ:
- GM LS2 6.0L Engine
- TH400 automatic transmission
- Atlas II Transfer case
- Dynatrac ProRock60 front axle
- PSC Full hydro steering
- ARB Locker front
- Yukon Grizzly locker rear
- GM 14Bolts rear axle
- Artec truss
- RCV axles front and rear
- H.A.D. drive shafts
- Fox 2.5 Coilover shocks
- Fox bump stop
- Maxxis Trepador 40" tires
- Raceline Beadlock wheels
- Griffin Radiator
- Acerni Offroad chassis and suspensions
- Mastercraft Seats and belts
- Gigglepin winches
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Control arm tube inserts milled to suit ready for glue:
[attachment=3][attachment=4]
What metal did you mill the tube inserts from and how did you "glue them" or do you mean weld to the CFS/CDS
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when you "glue" metal the meaning is weld or braze pieces together
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RCV issues? Keep us informed as I am very very jealous and want some in my jeep if anyone will buy my children for a reasonable price.
Seriously, you yanks have got customer service down to a T. I just had awesome customer service from RCV, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. Some UK companies could/should take note :003:
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Control arm tube inserts milled to suit ready for glue:
[attachment=3][attachment=4]
What metal did you mill the tube inserts from and how did you "glue them" or do you mean weld to the CFS/CDS
out with it.....why all the silly questions??? why not start a thread with nomadz is trying to make something, any help appreciated....
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Coffee with free refills defines a country
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new bling rcv stuff has landed at Stanstead, now thats not bad seeing as I only emailed the photos this time yesterday :icon_super:
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Thought it about time for an update, had a few issues at kov with my wiring and cut outs, possibly something to do with being in a rush....anyhow after burning out my armtech cutout I decided to go back to the basic msa/fia cut out which is also wired into my giant winch solenoid box and will cut the car and winches in one go:
[attachment=2]
I found during KOV that due to being lower geared on the diffs, the gear of choice was 3rd low, much better than before which was always 2/3. However as the gearbox has moved up a gnats to accomodate the new transfer case i found that when giving it some beans in 3rd the gear stick inadvertently kept switching the arb pump and thus the lockers off!! Now they are in a much better location at the top of the dash :-)
found a puddle:
[attachment=1]
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well its been a wile so I tought I 'd best post somet up ere. As you all probably know I tried my best at KOV and started 4 out of 5 laps albeit never finisin any of tem. In reality the truck wasn't exactly ready and since then I have been ironing out the problems, tweekin here and adjusting there. one issue I had at kov, probably due to a time constraint was the lack of power to either winches. As it was and I have only just got them working on 24v today :icon_super: I was thwarted by 2 problems. the first on the front winc was that as it is mounted back to front, no-one told me tat one of the winch bolt holes is not blind like the rest of them and so when you wind in a long coachbolt it inadvertently winds in to the main gear and locks it solid :violence: so no matter tat i tried to can te 24v systenm and run it on 12v it still wouldnt friggin work :headhack:
The next problem I ave foiund today is tat one of my batteries in the 24v pair(in series) is U/S and altough it says it has 13v as soon as its under load it drops to 0v.
Another issue I found at KOV was tat when cornerin at speed wit te new airshocks the truck tended to lean over a hell of alot and sometimes i thought we were gonna roll off into oblivion :003: anyow, Dave Cole from Ultra 4 racin told me tat in te USA what they do to get round this is to block off one of the bleed holes, so today finally I ave had every shock off in turn, and tapped and threadlocked a machine screw in one of the bleed screws, havin taken it for a burn round the block, it definitly seems more steady goin round corners and roundabouts, I ave also reduced the amount of oil in them, goin back to stock, (for a softer spring rate) and increasin the nitrogen charge to keep the same ride height.
Cheapfest was really only my 2nd proppa go with it and I was impressed once again with its traction and articulation. I was hoping CB would post some vid up of me at the axle twistery bit in the furthest bit of wood :-)
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If you are using two batteries and your car is 12V then one battery will be getting used more than the other and in turn this will discharge the other battery. Unless your 24V system is switched in only when required? :icon_winkle:
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If you are using two batteries and your car is 12V then one battery will be getting used more than the other and in turn this will discharge the other battery. Unless your 24V system is switched in only when required? :icon_winkle:
should have mentioned, I have a seperate 24v system with its own alternator solely for the winches. this is wired through a charge lamp and a 12v (switched side )relay can't remember the exact wiring but it uses B+ and D+ off the 24v alternator and the light goes out when there is 24v goin to it up the neggy
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well its been a wile so I tought I 'd best post somet up ere. As you all probably know I tried my best at KOV and started 4 out of 5 laps albeit never finisin any of tem. In reality the truck wasn't exactly ready and since then I have been ironing out the problems, tweekin here and adjusting there. one issue I had at kov, probably due to a time constraint was the lack of power to either winches. As it was and I have only just got them working on 24v today :icon_super: I was thwarted by 2 problems. the first on the front winc was that as it is mounted back to front, no-one told me tat one of the winch bolt holes is not blind like the rest of them and so when you wind in a long coachbolt it inadvertently winds in to the main gear and locks it solid :violence: so no matter tat i tried to can te 24v systenm and run it on 12v it still wouldnt friggin work :headhack:
The next problem I ave foiund today is tat one of my batteries in the 24v pair(in series) is U/S and altough it says it has 13v as soon as its under load it drops to 0v.
Another issue I found at KOV was tat when cornerin at speed wit te new airshocks the truck tended to lean over a hell of alot and sometimes i thought we were gonna roll off into oblivion :003: anyow, Dave Cole from Ultra 4 racin told me tat in te USA what they do to get round this is to block off one of the bleed holes, so today finally I ave had every shock off in turn, and tapped and threadlocked a machine screw in one of the bleed screws, havin taken it for a burn round the block, it definitly seems more steady goin round corners and roundabouts, I ave also reduced the amount of oil in them, goin back to stock, (for a softer spring rate) and increasin the nitrogen charge to keep the same ride height.
Cheapfest was really only my 2nd proppa go with it and I was impressed once again with its traction and articulation. I was hoping CB would post some vid up of me at the axle twistery bit in the furthest bit of wood :-)
exactly what I said :003:
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If you are using two batteries and your car is 12V then one battery will be getting used more than the other and in turn this will discharge the other battery. Unless your 24V system is switched in only when required? :icon_winkle:
should have mentioned, I have a seperate 24v system with its own alternator solely for the winches. this is wired through a charge lamp and a 12v (switched side )relay can't remember the exact wiring but it uses B+ and D+ off the 24v alternator and the light goes out when there is 24v goin to it up the neggy
Ohh my lights just love 24volts did i mention that?? :icon_biggrin: :icon_biggrin:
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Im impressed you gave KOV a go - I know a few that need to enter next year. It shouldnt take a maxed rig to win. I'll even come codrive! :icon_super:
And funny enough - your rig is looking more and more like johnnys rig.
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interestingly another team has swiped his co-driver